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Clutch Review Thread

Old 07-05-2010, 09:22 PM
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my 2 cents....I have a BULLY stage 4/4 puck,stock flywheel, have over 5000 kms,LSD ,over 300 hp,, track and daily driving and has never slipped or given me an issue yet. It bites hard and quick,but is still semi easy to use in stop and go city traffic.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:03 AM
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I'm looking to go twin disc or push-style conversion.



Can anyone remember what the parts list is to convert to push-style? I think we need a clutch for a late 90's NA Mitsu Eclipse FWD?



JonGTR, do you know what company and what part number I need regarding the twin disc?



I've been wondering if I could adapt a Honda transmission as ours can't handle the power... I wonder what MadJohn did to his to hold 600+.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:33 AM
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If memory serves me correctly.. most Honda transmissions sit on the passenger side of the car. That goes for B and D series.. K series on the other hand may be a different case.
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:29 PM
  #44  
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I bought the clutch and parts for a push conversion. Haven't had the Tib running yet to find out how it performs. I thought a few had it already? I'll let you know if I get the thing running again.



The twin disc could only be imported from Korea. Forgot the name, but they have a US and Korea based office. Mad John could get it for us, but no one bit.
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:22 AM
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Thanks for the reply Jon. Glad to see there are still some veteran members lurking around .



I did the push conversion. Purchased an ACT 6 puck unsprung disc, contacted ACT and they custom machined a pressure plate for me so it would hold 485 ft/lb instead of the normal 420 they are rated for.



I haven't driven the car yet, but the pedal feels totally different, it is easy up top and gets more difficult the farther you depress it. You never get to feel the fulcrum point though (where it is most difficult to depress then gets easier afterward). Because of that feeling I'm wondering if I'm releasing the disc completely when the pedal is fully depressed. I guess I'll find out tomorrow. I did bleed the system perfectly, and the total slave cylinder piston travel is .500". Does that sound on par with a properly operating system? In my experience (guestimating travel lengths I have seen before on my car - before the push conversion) this sounds like the correct amount of travel.



I suppose I may have to adjust the MC linkage rod to gain additional travel?



Looking forward to 4th gear wheelspin.
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:04 AM
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Wow I can't believe its been a year since I installed my push conversion... Time flies I'll tell you.



Update on the push conversion, it performs very well! I can spin the tires in 4th gear (215/45/16 Kumho XS) all the way from 60 mph to the rev limiter:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-U4ls6JkLk



That was in dry weather at about 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. In the summer time it would probably hook mostly. It did start to slip a bit in 5th gear recently at 31 PSI (which likely puts torque output over the rated number of 485 ft/lb). I dropped the boost down to 25 PSI and it will spin half way through 4th which actually results in quicker acceleration anyway. The clutch holds fine at that boost level, which should be around 400hp and 400 ft/lb of torque at the wheels.



I wanted to post up the part numbers for the clutch parts I bought directly from ACT in case anyone wants a stronger clutch than they sell normally for the mitsu. Like I posted last year this clutch is rated for 485 ft/lb instead of the standard 420. Here are the part numbers:



Pressure Plate: MB012XX - Maxx Extreme $224.10 USD

Clutch Disc: 6214004 - 6 puck rigid $87.15 USD

TOB: RB210 - Standard push type $16.62 USD

Alignment tool: AT20 - $2.66



Those prices are with a 15% discount that apparently they give everyone if you call them direct.
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