Clutch Review Thread
10-25-2007, 10:00 AM
#1
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This is the thread for you to post up your experience with clutches. Lets try to use these well defined technical terms in context when talking about clutches. This is to avoid any confusion as these words are technical jargon used in the auto industry.
Ok, first up, stock and stock replacement..
My car's performance profile: Intake, Headers, 50 shot Nitrous, Short Throw shifter
Valeo, the clutch that came with your car. I've been through 3 of them. They are not great for performance, they will tear up under spirited driving. The valeo kit includes stock Pressure Plate, stock Throw Out Bearing, stock Valeo Clutch and a alignment tool. The valeo clutch comes with 6 springs and is somewhat bouncy during engagement. It's a good kit for the money ($60) but is not good for performance.
SECO, stock replacement clutch. I've replaced my stock clutch with a aftermarket equivalent. The kit comes with Stock Pressure Plate, stock Throw Out Bearing, aftermarket SECO brand clutch and a alignment tool. This kit provides a firm engagement but glazes over because of that. the SECO clutch has rubber bushings rather then springs. It also has copper threads added. It provides a firmer then stock shift, but it does not add any power handling capabilities. When new, it feels a lot better then stock.
Neither clutch can hold a 50 shot of Nitrous Oxide reliably.
Seco on the left, Valeo on the right
I would also like to point out that I need a new rear motor mount. This can contribute to premature clutch slipping.
But, in my oppinion, neither has the clamping force or friction necessary to do the job.
QUOTE
A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration or jerking motion when the vehicle is
accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the
clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down. A loud bang or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle
body vibrates.
Dragging
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or shift gears. This
condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure plate
when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and
attempts to drive the transmission.
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving members when the
clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight
against the face of the flywheel. If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly on
acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight but continuous slippage may go
unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive temperature caused by friction.
accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the
clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down. A loud bang or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle
body vibrates.
Dragging
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or shift gears. This
condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure plate
when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and
attempts to drive the transmission.
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving members when the
clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight
against the face of the flywheel. If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly on
acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight but continuous slippage may go
unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive temperature caused by friction.
Ok, first up, stock and stock replacement..
My car's performance profile: Intake, Headers, 50 shot Nitrous, Short Throw shifter
Valeo, the clutch that came with your car. I've been through 3 of them. They are not great for performance, they will tear up under spirited driving. The valeo kit includes stock Pressure Plate, stock Throw Out Bearing, stock Valeo Clutch and a alignment tool. The valeo clutch comes with 6 springs and is somewhat bouncy during engagement. It's a good kit for the money ($60) but is not good for performance.
SECO, stock replacement clutch. I've replaced my stock clutch with a aftermarket equivalent. The kit comes with Stock Pressure Plate, stock Throw Out Bearing, aftermarket SECO brand clutch and a alignment tool. This kit provides a firm engagement but glazes over because of that. the SECO clutch has rubber bushings rather then springs. It also has copper threads added. It provides a firmer then stock shift, but it does not add any power handling capabilities. When new, it feels a lot better then stock.
Neither clutch can hold a 50 shot of Nitrous Oxide reliably.
Seco on the left, Valeo on the right
I would also like to point out that I need a new rear motor mount. This can contribute to premature clutch slipping.
But, in my oppinion, neither has the clamping force or friction necessary to do the job.
10-25-2007, 10:11 AM
#2
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Remember folks, everyone is going to have different experiences with their clutches, so this is just a general thread.
For example, I'm still on my STOCK OEM clutch, the original one that came on the car, at 86,000 miles, and I drive my car PRETTY damned hard (ABQ BBQ folks can attest to that). No slippage, but of course, I know how to drive pretty well.
Keep the details coming.
YOU NEED TO POST WHAT CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL YOU ARE USING/USED, AND WHAT KIND OF POWER YOU ARE PUTTING DOWN. IF YOU DON'T KNOW, THEN POST A SHORT MODS LIST.
For example, I'm still on my STOCK OEM clutch, the original one that came on the car, at 86,000 miles, and I drive my car PRETTY damned hard (ABQ BBQ folks can attest to that). No slippage, but of course, I know how to drive pretty well.
Keep the details coming.
YOU NEED TO POST WHAT CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL YOU ARE USING/USED, AND WHAT KIND OF POWER YOU ARE PUTTING DOWN. IF YOU DON'T KNOW, THEN POST A SHORT MODS LIST.
10-25-2007, 10:15 AM
#3
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Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
VALEO ebay : bought one that was a supposed upgraded clutch on ebay. it burned up after 8 months of hard driving
ACT 6 puck set:great clutch i'm using it now and have been for about 6,000 miles. its great and holds up to a beating. sometimes its a little chattery but usually is slient as a mouse and grippy like no other. i touch the clutch pedal and withing 1/2" its fully engaged. i couldnt ask for more out of a clutch
edit: with this act 6 puck i have a chromoly flywheel this time.
ACT 6 puck set:great clutch i'm using it now and have been for about 6,000 miles. its great and holds up to a beating. sometimes its a little chattery but usually is slient as a mouse and grippy like no other. i touch the clutch pedal and withing 1/2" its fully engaged. i couldnt ask for more out of a clutch
edit: with this act 6 puck i have a chromoly flywheel this time.
10-25-2007, 03:21 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
I should add that my SECO clutch used to hold my nitrous boost. Now, after one mishap where I tried to shift while burning nitrous, it was slipping slightly even when nitrous is applied and the clutch is fully engauged. It's been a month and I have not tried it since. Although, it seems that some of the grip is comming back to it through normal driving conditions.
Maybe it's because of the copper threads?
Maybe it's because of the copper threads?
10-25-2007, 04:54 PM
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
QUOTE (REDZMAN @ Oct 25 2007, 12:11 PM)
YOU NEED TO POST WHAT CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL YOU ARE USING/USED, AND WHAT KIND OF POWER YOU ARE PUTTING DOWN. IF YOU DON'T KNOW, THEN POST A SHORT MODS LIST.
in fact, i think it's better if everyone follows a format when supplying this information.
start every post off with a list of the clutches you had. each list should contain brand of clutch, brand of flywheel and/or pressure plate used with clutch, approximate horsepower(take a guess, don't inflate either), your confidence during installation of everything, HOW IT HELD UP, and then any other comments you may have on it.
please don't fill up this with a ton of comments either, if you have a question or feel the need to further clarify someone's experience reference it in a new thread and i'll get a mod or myself to make sure that the additional thread is linked in this.
we need one of these...
STICKIED!
10-25-2007, 11:49 PM
#6
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Vehicle: 2000 hyundai tiburon
well ive owned tree clutches. the stock ne lasted two weeks after i bought the car in 04, i got valeo aftermarket and that lasated 2 years. i am n w on clutch # 3. it is a 93 eclipse stage 2 cluch frm centerforce clutches. it is grippy as all hell. i have a header, bored td, and stock flywheel. granted i did the puull to puah conversion and it was welll worth it. i think my next clutch will be a evo clutch.
10-26-2007, 01:21 PM
#7
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Oh boy, where do I start....
(All of these are on mild to extreme boost and the Fidanza flywheel)
My first aftermarket clutch:
SPEC! Shittiest clutch 3V4R!!!!1!!! Even $hittier customer service!!! They blame everything on YOU when their crappy clutch explodes. And I had TWO of them explode on me and left me stranded.
When you talk to the manager, he claims that he's "never" had a problem like this before on a Tib, yet there's a dozen here and a dozen on NT with the same problem. Even had friends call them just before I did and still he lied to me.
Slipped every now and then too. Do not get this clutch for ANY level.......ever.
See this thread for more experiences and pics: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=8026&hl
XTD:
Not bad for a mild stage 3 clutch and $215. Haven't tested the longevity of it, but it lasted a couple thousand miles on MILD boost. But as soon as I cranked it up, it started slipping pretty bad. Probably around 230whp.
Clutchnet:
The good: The only pull clutch known to hold the power of a strongly boosted Tib. Easily held 270++++whp.
The bad: Blows up just like the others. It uses remanufactured Valeo parts that don't hold together well. I had the springs wanting to pop out just like the Spec.
I'm currently in the process of using a NON-sprung hub. If the springs were always the problem, then why not eliminate them? wink1.gif The solid hub is harsh, but not too much worse than the sprung. I'd go with this one for a 250+whp Tib.
Bad customer service:
You can barely understand the guy on the phone. What country is this guy from?
They only accept orders on the internet. Probably so you don't get pissed off trying to understand the guy that works the phone.
They, just like Spec, blame you and your transmission for the problem like they know everything about transmissions, but then tell you a minute later that they're not transmission experts. Go figure.
Pics and details here: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;hl=clutchnet
Unless you can afford the imported multiplate clutch for $1400, then Clutchnet is the best and proven clutch out there.
(All of these are on mild to extreme boost and the Fidanza flywheel)
My first aftermarket clutch:
SPEC! Shittiest clutch 3V4R!!!!1!!! Even $hittier customer service!!! They blame everything on YOU when their crappy clutch explodes. And I had TWO of them explode on me and left me stranded.
When you talk to the manager, he claims that he's "never" had a problem like this before on a Tib, yet there's a dozen here and a dozen on NT with the same problem. Even had friends call them just before I did and still he lied to me.
Slipped every now and then too. Do not get this clutch for ANY level.......ever.
See this thread for more experiences and pics: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=8026&hl
XTD:
Not bad for a mild stage 3 clutch and $215. Haven't tested the longevity of it, but it lasted a couple thousand miles on MILD boost. But as soon as I cranked it up, it started slipping pretty bad. Probably around 230whp.
Clutchnet:
The good: The only pull clutch known to hold the power of a strongly boosted Tib. Easily held 270++++whp.
The bad: Blows up just like the others. It uses remanufactured Valeo parts that don't hold together well. I had the springs wanting to pop out just like the Spec.
I'm currently in the process of using a NON-sprung hub. If the springs were always the problem, then why not eliminate them? wink1.gif The solid hub is harsh, but not too much worse than the sprung. I'd go with this one for a 250+whp Tib.
Bad customer service:
You can barely understand the guy on the phone. What country is this guy from?
They only accept orders on the internet. Probably so you don't get pissed off trying to understand the guy that works the phone.
They, just like Spec, blame you and your transmission for the problem like they know everything about transmissions, but then tell you a minute later that they're not transmission experts. Go figure.
Pics and details here: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;hl=clutchnet
Unless you can afford the imported multiplate clutch for $1400, then Clutchnet is the best and proven clutch out there.
10-26-2007, 01:42 PM
#9
Moderator
Here's a helpful hint when dealing with the customer service of a clutch company:
I've heard from both Spec and Clutchnet, the exact same "reason" why their clutch exploded. "The input shaft in your transmission is unbalanced." Says their representative.....who is NOT a transmission expert. Funny, but I had this happen with a 20k Beta I tranny, and a 10k Beta II tranny. I'd say that's pretty new? "But, it could have come unbalanced from the factory.....blah blah...."
However, I later called a very reputable transmission shop and was told that this is a complete BS excuse for them to get out of their warranty and that it is impossible for our input shaft to cause that kind of a problem. There's no way for it to be "unbalanced", unless you got in a wreck and bent the shaft off the motor.
So when you hear that, tell them to get bent.
I've heard from both Spec and Clutchnet, the exact same "reason" why their clutch exploded. "The input shaft in your transmission is unbalanced." Says their representative.....who is NOT a transmission expert. Funny, but I had this happen with a 20k Beta I tranny, and a 10k Beta II tranny. I'd say that's pretty new? "But, it could have come unbalanced from the factory.....blah blah...."
However, I later called a very reputable transmission shop and was told that this is a complete BS excuse for them to get out of their warranty and that it is impossible for our input shaft to cause that kind of a problem. There's no way for it to be "unbalanced", unless you got in a wreck and bent the shaft off the motor.
So when you hear that, tell them to get bent.
10-26-2007, 01:52 PM
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i have a act street disk and a fidanza flywheel, and i put them in at around 86,000 miles i believe, and after about a year im now almost at 106,000 miles and it still grips like a mother. my mods are in my sig and i would recomend this clutch to anyone, i have not had any problems
