Well, I was coming home from Pensacola last night, and the transmission started acting up really badly. Badly, as in, no 2nd, 4th or reverse. Took it to a transmission shop, and he's wanting at least $1800 to repair it. I don't want to keep fixing my cars, so I'm looking to sell this one; either as parts, or if someone wants to try to repair it, or just to a junkyard.

If anyone is interested, I'm hoping to get at least $500, if not $800 for it. Engine is still good, just had new brakes and driver's axle put on and new tires last summer.

I'll post pictures if anyone has a slight interest (car's at the shop right now, so I can't get any at present), but it's a white 1999 Elantra Wagon (auto) with 128k miles on it.

I'm going to try to sell it locally also, and if I don't get any bites, then off to eBay it goes. Last resort is to a junkyard.


That being said, I'm in the market for a new car. I can only afford about $3500 for one, and would really like to find something with less than 85k miles on it. Auto, good fuel mileage, and hopefully somewhere in the southeast. Doesn't have to be a Hyundai. Let me know if anyone knows of one!

 

swap trans in yourself-total cost roughly 400 bux

sell car for 1500

profit

hell if i was anywhere near alabama id pick it up myself, i sold my wagon with ~160k miles (granted it had a beta 2 in it that had roughly 120k miles) for 1500

 

I would if I could.
I've never swapped a tranny, don't have the resources (including knowledge and advice) to, and would be worried I'd mess something up. Just don't want to go down that road.
It's my wife's car, and I really don't like stuff breaking on her, especially cars. She drives about 45min to work each day, and needs to have something fully reliable, not something I've been playing with.

 

well dont play with it just fix it and sell it right away, hell if you swap transmissions and just trade it in youll probably get 1500 bux as long as its in good shape

seriously man its EASY unbolt some bolts, remove starter, remove axles, remove bolts for trans, trans falls right out, reinstall in reverse order

you can do it in a day and double the money you want for it

ive pulled transmissions more times than i care to mention, a basic tool set is all you need (well that and a 34mm socket for the axles)

what do you got to lose? try to pull it out and see if you can do it, if you decide you cant so what someone else has to pull the trans out and youll do them a favor by starting the process

 

Ok faith, I think you might have me convinced... I have a friend from church who's done it before (not on an Elantra) and we're thinking of giving it a shot.

Would you briefly (although in a little more detail than above) explain the removal process? I did a bit of searching and didn't come up with too much in the way of details to the removal.
Remove wheels and axles (haven't done that axles before)
Remove starter (can't say I even know where it is)
Remove 3 (?) transmission mounts
Remove bolts holding transmission to engine
Falls out?

How about things like wiring or cables, fluids, other connections to the engine, more bolts, etc?

I'm assuming the engine does not need to be removed either then?

 

The engine will technically still be held in the car, but only by one mount. It will crush you. Support it before unbolting the transaxle.

The starter is under the intake manifold. You will want to get the intake air box out of the way to reach it more easily.
There are three mounts on the transaxle. One on the side, and two (front/rear) on the bottom. These and the bolts holding the slushbox to the engine are the only solid connections to the rest of the car. You will also want to remove the crossmember, but that is only 4 more bolts.
The axles can be pulled out by hand from the differential end. Unbolt the knuckles from the struts and the knuckles will sag (take care of the rubber brake lines) and then you should be able to pop the axles out of the transaxle case. Hold them up/out of the way with bungee cords or rope.

tips:
drain the fluid first
don't forget to disconnect everything that connects to the transaxle (hoses/shifter cables/electrical cables)
support the engine
open the access cover
unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter before the bellhousing from the engine block
the transaxle likely weighs more than you do. be ready to "catch" when it is loose

 

ive always had better luck actually removing the axles than trying to keep em in place, seems like every time i tried to pull one without removing em, i tore a boot

and thats no good

careful with removing the wiring to the trans, the clips break easily (not hard to repair, just annoying)

instead of spending stupid money on "genuine" hyundai transmission fluid, i used "parts plus universal synthetic" NEVER had any issues and its half the cost

one of the bolts on top of the transmission holds a important engine ground, make sure to reattach it (i forgot once and had headlight flickered once and a while)

a few tips:

BEFORE you even lift the car take off the hub cap and loosen the little castle axle nut using the 34mm socket, if you forget this step and remove the wheels first that axle nut is a PAIN IN THE ASS to remove by yourself (basically comes down to having someone jam on the brakes while you try to remove that nut)

go to a tire store and ask to have a dead tire
lay it under the vehicle when it comes time to drop the trans, instead of it crashing down onto the floor, the tire will support it instead of damaging your concrete (if your doing this in your driveway that is)

use the stock jack to support the engine with a piece of wood BEFORE you remove any mounts, makes it a hair easier to reinstall when its in the stock location

ive found it easier to just remove the entire trans mount assembly using the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame (there are 4 grommets in the drivers side wheel well)

when it comes time to reinstall the roll stopper mounts, mount it on the trans first THEN install the crossmember to the frame(i have filled mounts and its a PITA to try to get those bolt holes to line up when done in the opposite direction)


iirc the tools you will need are

3/8th ratchet
1/2 ratchet,
basic metric socket set
34mm for the axles
a pry bar