makings

Had my Gen 1 RD Coupé dyno'd at lunchtime, and I am seriously mad.gif

The stock BHP at the FLYWHEEL is 137, no? So, here's what I currently have on my car:

ractive cotton air filter
MainTec 4-2-1 header
Cat-back exhaust (without a cat)
Magnecor leads (but don't affect BHP)

That's it power-wise. So, the results of the dyno.

142 BHP at the FLYWHEEL..

142!!!! Frickin' 5 (5 BHP) over stock!!! WHAT THE BLOODY HELL???!!!!!

Had a chat with a guy there, he suggested putting the cat back on as the lack of pressure may be fouling the o2 sensor - he said he would give me £1,000 for every extra bhp I lost, but I had to pay him £1 for every BHP I gained. He's obviously confident.

So, after paying about £1,200, I've gained about 5 BHP!

Once again, what the bloody hell? Very despondent at the moment, not happy.

Any thoughts / advice from people who have proven, dyno'd mods?

Off to buy a Supra.

REDZMAN

Oh, easy to explain.

You have a Warm Air Intake (WAI).

The AEM is proven to do about 12 more HP, because it's a CAI.

That filter isn't great, but it's location is horrible.

Basicly, your engine is farting very well, but not breathing worth a damn. Get a real intake, a BBTB, and either port your IM or get a Airram.

City

I'm new to the tiburon world but it makes sense to me.

First what was your baseline? Let's figure it was around 135hp

Your mods are intake, wires, exhaust catback and headers. Intake in most cases adds absolutely nothing to cars, sometimes you can get up to 5-10hp on Ls1's but it's not going to do much on our Tib's accept increase sound and smoother airflow. Wires aren't going to help at all, maybe 1 hp if that. Catback, I wouldn't expect over a 5hp gain and that's being positive.

So that means you gained anywhere from 4-8hp from your headers. It's a bit low for what I'd expect. But I still wouldn't expect over 15hp, so your not looking at THAT big a difference.

If you want a dyno queen you can get a Supra, ever see the Dyno graph curves for those cars? Looks like a heart monitor print out. (<--read peaky)

REDZMAN

Actually, you didnt' check out his pictures. He's got a CLOTH filter on the end of his intake elbow. It is NOT a aftermarket intake at all.

The AEM has PROVEN DYNO's of 12 to 16 HP on a mostly stock Tib.

That's a nice gain.

Check out his pictures City, you'll see what I'm talkin bout.

makings

Hi Redzman,

Photo in sig is old.. here's a new one.

Looks like I'll still have the same problem tho'.

Would I port my IM to match the BBTB or AirRam (noob q there),

Thanks for the feedback,

Mike K.

City

Wow Redz that's pretty awesome. The AEM Airram is what you're talking about? Gonna have to check that out.

SpeedRacer

First you have to realize a manufacturers claimed HP is NOT a good baseline for a dyno. It's proven there's up to 10% discrepancy in factory hp numbers. Bone stock your car could dyno anywhere from 120-150hp at the flywheel. You also have to remember that the factory number is for a brand new engine in perfect shape. Over time an engine will lose hp due to wear and tear, loss of compression, poor maintenance, etc. It's inevitable.

You have no real baseline to compare to, so don't sweat it. You could have a weak factory motor and gained 20hp. You never know. Just use your current dyno numbers as a "starting point" and go from there. wink1.gif

REDZMAN

LOL I know it's old, I went to your site andlooked because I couldn't remember what you had.

The IM is your Intake Manifold. The Airram is a replacement Intake manifold. So, if you buy a BBTB, you'd want to bore your IM to match the BBTB. Or buy the airram to go with the BBTB, and you'll have room to grow later for a bigger BBTB. If you stick with the OEM IM, you'll want to have it bored up, like I said, and maybe the runners bored out a bit more to help get all that extra flow into the cylinders.

Think of it this way. Go outside and get a garden hose. Turn it on HIGH. Now crimp the hose in the center somewhere. Notice the reduced flow thru the remainder of the hose? That crimp is just like your OEM TB/IM, a choke point slowing down the air. If you open the hose more, it's not going to change that choke point.

BTW, what size exhaust have you done?

Zman

You didn't fill up your location, that way it's not easy to help us understand where you are and what version your Tib is. For your picture I know you don't have a MAF so you are based anywhere in the world that speaks english but USA or Canada.... Australia? UK?

Well, MAF Tibs react much better to CAI's than MAP Tibs (because the MAF get's a more accurate reading on the actual amount of air coming in, thus injecting more fuel and getting better combustion for changes in airflow vs. OEM airflow). With that said, you won't get much more power from your engine with just headers and exhaust; your intake is freed up in some way, but what is your weather right now? If it's hot, your short WAI (Warm Air Intake) will hurt some to the performance (not only because air is less dense, but because computer also is programmed to inject more fuel when conditions get to hot, that's to refrigerate the combustion chamber, so... it does affect your air density AND your ECU settings).
Another thing you have not told us is about your torque, many times torque curve is more important than power curve, specially when comparing max power alone.
Maybe you gained like 5HP, BUT you reach the top figures earlier in the curve, and also maintain that power level for a bigger rev range, maybe you improved your torque a lot, gained some, did it earlier and kept it high for a bigger rpm range... but you haven't told us about that...

97tibby

You dont even have any sensors on ur intake? I highly doubt that is helping you. I threw an filter on the end of my MAF and lost hp/mpg.