my best friends acccord is just like the one you have in that video, also 5-speed. it's really nice and feels a lot safer than my car will ever feel! but yeah his stock accord is very quick next to my car and the gears go in beautifully.

you've routed all those hoses into each other, that's your problem. i did that and it made matters worse.

yeah bro i wouldn't use those clear lines. i also believe clear lines are illegal in emissions. they might kink up. plus if you use fuel lines they won't be that noticeable. the tips of the fuel lines will actually shrink a little in the pressure making it air tight.

i'd also use the 1/4 tubing for the most part because any bigger and you'll have the purge valve sending through a lot of pressure (more room for leakage) instead of just sending the small amount through. the longer distance the air travels, the smaller size tubing you want. 1/4 doesn't look like it fits, but it does and it's the best way to do it.

the cannister doesn't have to be clamped down as it fits snug between all the gadgets above the battery there. make sure that blue thing is next to the cannister just the way i have it in the picture.

once finished, the light won't go off right away. don't be surprised, it will and your car will run just fine. PM me if you come across something. otherwise, very nice videos and hopefully when you get around to it, the evap will have turned out to have been the problem afterall.

 

thanks, im gonna get on those after my histroy mid term 2m at kragen.

i gotta study ur picture and get it right the first time!
thanks for the heads up and help fing02.gif

 

rd1, pm me, and i will talk with you about turbo kit, and stuff.. i can talk you through all you need to know.. trust me, ive been through it all with my damn setup, and i know what things to avoid, and what things you cant skimp on.. you honestly could build a good 8psi- intercooled setup for <3000$ and have it be reliable and not need to mess with it all the time..


i really would swap to a manual though, you would LOVE it.. my tib was first manual, and i love being able to control my power, and i would never go back to auto, unless i got a truck..

 

HKC, a slipping gear isn't going to throw a CEL lol. There is no sensor that detects if a gear is slipping, so obviously the ECU has no way of knowing. Its obvious to me that its slipping.

Not saying that lil emissions box isn't going to help, but its not going to cause one gear, and one gear only, to take that long to engage.

Are you throwing a CEL RD1 btw? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in here.

 

Socks- let me get my research going first and get corky bell. And if have any questions i will ask u fo shur.

i've been thinking about the manual but i just keep tjhinking that i dont have time. i have like 2 g's rite now to last me till i get my next financial aid loan. and i make under 300 every 2 weeks.

So i just gotta think about this stuff.

I have an on and off cel. it was

p1624- cooling fan relay circuit low
p0734 AT 4th gear ratio problem
p0747 pcsv short circuit
p0743 DCCSV open ciruit.

its on and off so the last time i checked i got those ^^^^^^^^^
right now its off

btw, i did the evap canister thing today. havent drove it yet but will see 2m. Followed everything HKC instructed. will see how it goes.

 

Whether they are off or on pretty much doesn't matter, if the light comes on then goes away, you shouldn't disregard it, you should still look into the problem to see why it came on in the first place.

Most of them are wiring problems... and the CEL from the ECU 4th gear is probably why you get the slip entering 4th. From the little I know this means there is probably something wrong with the hydraulic clutches inside the transmission. Not something 99.999% of us on this board would be able to fix.

So essentially if the wiring for that sensor isn't faulty, then your tranny has just about kicked it.

If you had a problem with the gay RevA canister, doesn't it throw a CEL for that? After all HKC had a recurring CEL for the canister... so why mess with something that wasn't broken?

 

^ i agree. i didn't know about those codes man. you shouldn't disregard those codes, definitely get those fixed first. they do sound like shorts to me but why would there be short circuit? do that first, then get the gear checked out, then if all fails do the evap cannister relocation.

i had no idea the other codes were there. tough decision on the 5-speed though... now would be a good time. good luck man, keep in mind you fix that stuff you'd trigger a scare to all those guys you've raced.

 

for now, i dont want to deal with the stupid tranny. when or if it blows, 5spd here we go. but for now i rather not deal with the auto. Its koo for the daily driver not much slipping and the light doesnt go on.

well, except for yesterday. I did the canister things and it runs koo and all but late at night on the freeway, it turned on agian. I dont really wanna take it anywhere to fork over money to get the codes check (a$$h03s want 100 for diagnosis)

Anyone have suggestion for scanner tools they have purchased? Laptop software ones are koo too.


ALso, i reinstalled some parts. here are the weights

14.4 - left upper rear seat + amp
10.0 - right upper rear seat
9.80 - Bottom rear seat
7.00 - Spare tire cover
26.0 - Spare Tire
27.6 - 12" sub with box
5.00 - HAtch cover

total removed.. 99.8 pounds.

 

How many times do we have to mention that it is Autozone's company policy to read codes FOR FREE?

 

I have ordered the Digimoto OBII scanner that plugs into your labtop.

It works great with a COM port the only thing is if your labtop doesn't have a COM port I cant quite get the USB adapter to work.

The scanner shows you a lot, engine temps, RPMs, engine speed, also you can run a dyno, and see your 0-60 times-courter mile times. Its actually quite cool software. If your only wanting to see ecu codes then something a little more simple will do just fine.

If you get it theres a discount of like $15 just look for the sticky for website discounts.

Hope this help.