^^ they all produce boost. Most are just 2 LBS.

As long as the gallons of air per minute is greater then about 100, you will have boost at full throttle, 5Krpm. That's what my MAF reads stock using Jay-M's OBD-II diagnosic reader.

 

but Pandy's, if successful, will produce more than 2lbs indicated.

This sounds like a fun project. An idle mind is a devil's playground and I have 3 mangled shopping carts in my yard to prove it (I'm working on making a 9HP steerable, brakable, and street-able shopping cart).

It's not going so well.

Best of luck Pandy, I hope you are successful. I'd be scared shitless to drive it on a course (unless the boost was predictable), but it should be a nice surprise on the straight-away's.

And those look like "Lucky" brand bearings. Word of advice, they are shit. Go get Black Panther (they are black) bearings (they can be found at a "rollerskate" shop or skateboard shop).

 

Red Bones aren't too bad, but they have a set of bearings out there, black bones, which kick ass. Luckysare terrible though. Here's a link to the bones.

http://shop.ccs.com/item.do?categoryID=83&...mp;brandFilter=

 

Except for the fact that you would have to find a VERY large hill to bomb, "luge", to get those bearings to 36,000 revolution per minute. And even then..

 

Still talking over plans and ideas. Have scrapped the grinder deal because of the fact that the motor is part of the grinder so I would have to use it all. Instead I am using a 1200w shop vac motor.

Also the chain idea has been scrapped for a lexan 'gearbox' made from 4 pieces of 1/4" lexan. One solid one for the bottom with the motor and turbo mounted with the 2 splines (motor and turbo) going into the 'box' then 2 sides cut as frames and epoxyed down, then a solid one for the top. Will make gaskets from those high heat cooking sheets (the new rubber ones) and fill it with trans fluid. I am also using carbon steel gears to drive it instead of sprockets and a chain, these gears will be 40 tooth and a 18 tooth for the 2:1 ratio. 1200w vacuum motor does about 15k rpm and theyre real strong too.. They used them in mythbusters to power a hovercraft (well Adam did..) They also produce alot of air lol, Adam got his lip sucked into one and it ripped a chunk out of his lip lol...

And here is how it will work.. This doesnt show the complete built up gearbox, just the bottom plate, but you can see how it will work on the turbo. Itll also be alot cleaner and lighter and better than the sprocket and chain idea, and stronger and safer too.



We also figured out a better and MUCH easier way to make the spline for the turbo. Instead of getting a piece of bar machined we are going to use a 5/16 bar (inner bearing size) and drill into the top, then use a bolt that bolts into the spline to hold the impellor on. This can be done with a drillpress instead of having to get parts machined which would cost a bomb.



What noone seem to be taking into account Pat is the fact that this turbo drive system will have no weight on it to generate friction and wear.

Think about it.. A piece of 5/16 carbon steel round bar with a billet impellor on the top lol, hardly any weight at all really, few grams at best.

And it will have 2 bearings, the same as the back of a skateboard which would normally have a 160lb + dude rolling on it.


Im not overly concerned about bearing failure. I have had these type of bearings in my old BMX rims (peregrines) and I gave them some REALLY serious abuse, namely rode down a fire escape and did a few 9ft drop gaps. And they still came out fighting lol. If anything they are overkill for what I am using them for. There is no pressure on them at all, all they are doing is spinning around.. If they fail it will be because of heat, not wear.

Here, look familiar?



Very similar to what I have planned. Oh, and this works and oh, it's rather expensive..

 

any word on this super special setup ? ive got a spare angle grinder layen around and a spare turbo from a thunderbird , if this proves to provide a few pounds of boost you could deffinatly sell on here ,i am deffinatly down to donate my turbo and angle grinder to this cause if it works

 

Sorry my man. I was working on it as recent as two weeks ago.. All I needed was 3 holes machined for bearings and the impellor and I painted it all too for when it was to be assembled.

I changed the design from gears to belts and pulleys, picced here -



They work out around $23 and will hold the rpms with less friction so dont need fluids.. Belt snaps ? no prob, replacement belt is around $8.

I also had the impellor shaft machined, but needed to get a bolt thread machined into it so the impellor could bolt on. Didnt get to that... Will ask my pal here i as I have the full kit ready to be sent down to where I am now smile.gif

Shaft, original impellor and bolt (bearings shown)



And the flat end that needs machining smile.gif BUT. this needs a reverse thread and reverse bolt so it doesnt spin itself loose. remember that ok? or youll be pulling chunks of impellor from your CAI lmao laugh.gif



Bearing cup I made (hammered a washer into the flipped part of turbo) again this washer needs machining to the circumferance of the bearing so it can be pressed in. Im also getting it spot welded to stop it flying out, tho it is really well wedgied in. Top bearing goes in this.



The completed paint on the whole thing, with filter..



And the motor I am using. 110v and comes out of a dirt devil. Spins 19,000 RPM and will be ratio'd 3:1 accross the belt, giving me a total (less a couple of thou from lag) of 57,000 RPM. 44,000 is enough for 440CFM of air which is 4lbs of boost. So a realistic assumption here is 2-3lbs. Which aint bad (cos its an extra 40 horses or so) for less than $200.



As I say, I need 3 holes machined.. One into the impellor shaft so the impellor can bolt on. One in the top washer bearing holder and one in the bottom of the charger to hold the bottom bearing. Then I need to order the belt and pulleys and make a plate to hold the motor inline with the turbo. I am using a pair of these to pull the belt tight. These will be under the plate bolted through the turbo, theyre chain tensioners from a BMX bike and you do up the bolts and they pull out slack and allow you to tune the tension. Theyll work swimmingly smile.gif

Oh, theyll go on the end of the plate btw (the cap parts) and the round holes will be under the plate bolts for the turbo. So basically you crank the tensioners, then tighten the plate down to the turbo.

 

Pandy, I so want this to work. smile.gif Real UK budget thinking.....you want to blow a dam....you skim a barrel on the water. cool.gif

It will be good to see how long the prototype works....especially if it's just bearings and the dirt devil motor that wear. I'm thinking along the lines of blowing this through a filter as insurance against breakage......but no different to a turbo there.

I'm really good at crossing my fingers if you need some backup...