Hi guys, I just want to know a little more of this kind of systems.


I was thinkg to install a system in my car, but I dont know what kind of modification are needed to run safety in a almost stock tiburon.

What is the best and the safest brand of this systems?

what is the biggest shot I can use in my car, with what mods and for how long it can be use?

I know that the safety system is the DRY system, but am I right?

sorry if there is a lot of quetions, I just want to know everything before make a decision.

anyone has a system install? how do you installed it? pics? :blush:

thanks laugh.gif

read this so you know what you are getting yourself into

How to: Installing an NX kit

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sharkev @ May 3 2005, 09:10 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Hi guys, I just want to know a little more of this kind of systems.
I was thinkg to install a system in my car, but I dont know what kind of modification are needed to run safety in a almost stock tiburon.</div>

If you not gonna exceed 50 shot then you will be safe with bone stock car.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>What is the best and the safest brand of this systems?</div>

NX wet kit

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>what is the biggest shot I can use in my car, with what mods and for how long it can be use?</div>

Stock 50 shot, upgrde fuel pump and you can have up to 90 shot. Don't forget about colder spark plugs and highest octane fuel you can get.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>I know that the safety system is the DRY system, but am I right?</div>

Dry system is just another type of nitrous system, and I do not recommend getting one. Stick with wet kit.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>anyone has a system install? how do you installed it? pics? :blush:</div>

Check that link that Dweet gave you.

If you're going to run nitrous (even just a 50 shot) at least get the following (small) mods, just to be safe--they're good to have anyway and are cheap:
new spark plugs (ngk's), 255lph fuel pump (walbro), and (like OP said) always fill with the highest octane fuel you can get and/or buy some Octane Booster

http://www.nitrousexpress.com, get a WET NX kit.

I would reccommend getting the mods listed above, a WET NX kit, and using a 50 shot. you could go higher, but i would not do more than a 90 shot(again, like OP said)

You also need a gauge and bottle warmer (NX Gen II upgrade)... especially when you start using larger shots and need to have the kit running properly at the right PSI.

<span style="color:purple">what everyone said is true and to add my .02...nitrous express is the best kit imo to get. </span> smile.gif

ohh ok. thanks, but can anyone tell me WHY is the WET system the safest?

how much time can I use this system, and how much time do I have to wait to use it again?

and I saw in dweet DIY install that the system only going to work at WOT, right? Is this the best way to install it? or is better to install with a bottom in the driver side?

sorry about so many question but, its pretty expensive here, i have to know evrything before..

thanks

how much for the 255lph walbro fuel pump?

and Dweet, do you have a pic where and how do you put the bottle?

<span style="color:red">because you add fuel not through your injectors, but through the nozzle. With dry kit, injectors might max out or fail and there will be a big kaboom!</span>

<span style="color:red">NX website recommends no more than 10 seconds at a time, otherwise solenoids won't last long. Every 5-10 minutes I guess.</span>

<span style="color:red">it's the safest way to have it</span>

[quote]or is better to install with a bottom in the driver side?[/quote[

<span style="color:red">huh?</span>


<span style="color:red">$90 new on ebay, 25 used on DSMtuner.com

Btw, 255lph pump is too big. Use 190lph.</span>

<span style="color:red">Trunk!</span>

A better pump does not mean necessarily more fuel flow. The FPR is probably the major restriction in the fuel system for the Tib. I would rather get one of those to bump up the PSI when the nitrous is activated, much like how a dry kit works.

With a new FPR and stock fuel pump you won't be able to raise the pressure that much man.... you will need a bigger pump!

And if your pressure will always be high, you will be always rich and will be wasting lots of gas rolleyes.gif

Most stock fuel pumps can flow around 90PSI at max output. The stock Tib fuel pump flows 35-45PSI at WOT... there is plenty of room to bump it up.

And the FPR does not have to be set at high setting all the time... you think the FPR in the nitrous kits stays on all the time? Or I'm sure a RRFPR could be made to work.

so just FRP, right?. ok, I´ll try make a decision and see what happen.

thanks

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (hamhead @ May 3 2005, 05:26 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Most stock fuel pumps can flow around 90PSI at max output. The stock Tib fuel pump flows 35-45PSI at WOT... there is plenty of room to bump it up.

And the FPR does not have to be set at high setting all the time... you think the FPR in the nitrous kits stays on all the time? Or I'm sure a RRFPR could be made to work.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>

and the pump will last how long with those numbers? a month or two?

You gonna go and adjust your FPR every time you want to use nitrous? rolleyes.gif

RRFPR? Where are you gonna get pressure above atmospheric to make it rise the fuel pressure???


Sharkev, get a 190lph fuel pump and it's gonna be all you need!

Ask away, we got answers here man!

Dry kits bump up pressure using a fuel pressure regulator. Thats how more fuel is forced through the injectors to accomodate the nitrous. I'm sure you know that. There are plenty of people that have been running dry 50-70 shots for months and months (even for a year or two) now with no problems related to the fuel pump here.

Of course if your going to run a much larger shot a large amount of the time, I would recommend getting a Walboro 190. He is a newbie to nitrous though, it takes a while to learn the system and get comfortable enough to bump up the shot to where he would get to that point, if he ever does. BTW, I have seen RRFPR's modified to work with nitrous, how I do not know. I'll try and find out for ya.

he might as well then get a dry kit if you recommend getting him a FPR. I say get 190lph pump and you will be safe and won't be wasting gas!

That exactly what I dont want to do, Waste a lot of gas.

190lph fuel pump, is the most reseanable, I dont want to change the pressure of the rail every time I want to race, I dont know when I have to race.lol

thanks evryone, and after what RPM is the better time to use this nitrous?

and the WET system is the hardest system to install, but if you guys says is the safest, what can I do, right? lol

ok, so I just need the fuel pump and the system right?, but I couldn´t find the price of Dweet´s system.

smile.gif

you dont want the nitrous activating at any other spot than WOT because you could lean out and blow your engine up. this is because you are still adding the same amount of n20(more importantly, oxygen) from the nitrous system, with a less amount of fuel, due to the ecu not sending enough if you are at, say 80% throttle.

just thought id clear that up for him.

The fuel pump is not constantly adding more fuel with a dry kit... I dunno where you got that from. When it senses nitrous activation it bumps up the fuel pressure to feed more fuel through the injectors. Your gas mileage isn't going to go down simply from having a nitrous-based FPR installed.

Tibby01 is right... with a wet kit, your best bet is WOT, and once you hit second gear. Spraying 1st gear with a large shot is probably too much stress on the drivetrain.... your already putting down tons of torque do to gearing.

I would not spray below 3800-3900rpms.

Wet kit is not hard to isntall. All you gotta do is cut the fuel line and run a line to another solenoid.

Ham, he's not getting a dry kit, so he does not need the FPR! Stop confusing him!

ok.. so just the pump, and start to using it after the 4000k rpms, right?

my car is auto, what other thing I should know about this?

thanks evryone, I have evertyhing clear! tongue.gif

I meant using the FPR off of a dry kit on your wet kit... but whatever, I'm not going to spend this entire thread proving you wrong every step of the way.

In short, you can use either the pump or the FPR from the dry kit (you can buy those parts seperate), whichever one you choose won't effect your gas mileage in anyway, and will have the same results. Personally I'd pick whichever one you can find cheaper.

You have the benefit of having an auto... however, I would still get a window switch off of EBay. Reason being if you hit the rev limiter while using nitrous, you'll probably severely damage or blow your engine. Having an auto makes it harder to do so, but a window switch does two things.

1. Turns on your nitrous at a certain RPM
1. Turns off your nitrous at a certain RPM

That way you can go WOT off the line if need be, and protect yourself from killing your engine.

ohhh.... i didnt know that, I thought that if using nitrous and the rpms hit redline is going to shift faster than normal, because someone said that the auto tranny handle the power better than stock.

I dont remember who said that, but what you say is true.

I should start to find the best way to accelerate ... right?

well. there is a WET system that someone want to sells it. in around 375$.

:huh:

Normally it will. However, just like manual trannies, sometimes an auto tranny can slip or maybe not shift as fast as it should, which might not be good.

I've never heard of an instance where an auto hit the rev limiter when using nitrous (any nitrous w/ auto users out there...?) but I would still get a window switch as they are pretty cheap.

its better be sure about that than complain later, right?

and talking about this, could I use a 1.8 ECU and cam with this setup? or its better has the stock cam and ECU for this?

thanks again.

The cam is fine. The ECU, we still don't know how it effects timing/fueling. A few people had problems with detonation with the 1.8 ECU in the car, which leads me to believe it advances timing and trims the fuel down too much. I personally would not get the ECU if your getting nitrous.

When did anyone have an issue with detonation? The only issue I have heard of was with a RevA 1.8 ECU would cause a CEL related to emissions.

Someone (Jaws maybe...? I don't remember who exactly, I'll try and search and find it) ran into issues with detonation while running the 1.8 ECU with a turbocharger setup. I'm 90% sure I'm remembering that correctly.

Ham is right. 1.8L ecu has a little bit of advanced timing (the reason why it gives a little more power) over 2.0l ECU, and when you get higher compression you will run into problems smile.gif

oh ok.. talking about this, what is the exact size of the lobbes of 1.8 cam?

i want to buy a used one, but I want to know if is in good shape or not.

ninja.gif

I have nitrous on my automatic trans. It hits revlimiter realy easy with nitrous its scarry..lol

Im also using a rrfpr with my dry kit and it works fine...the nitrous adds pressure to the vacum line in the rrfpr causing the fuel pressure to rise no problems yet......im also using a 95 talon tsi/eclips gst
fuel pump. I have been running a 65 and 75 shot back and forth for 2 years now with no problems.

thanks for good feedback man smile.gif

do you have a window switch?

I will have a window switch as soon as I install my smt6...its been sitting in my room for a week now.....you can use the 5th injector control as a window switch.....Im going to use it for that untill next winter when I install the tubo kit I have had for a year now....im realy slow at geting stuff done on my car ...lol

^^^^ really? do you have the nitrous in your auto tiburon and evrerything is fine after 2 year of that?..

so without a window switch you have no problems, do you think that with a WET system is the same? could be safe my car using the nitrous without the switch?

have pics to share? how did you installed it?

thanks!

Check out Dweet's DIY, he has a really good write up.

Do you have auto or 5 sp?

I have an auto, and I saw Dweet´s DIY, but I want to know more about a installing with an auto tranny.

i dont know if is safe to run without that switch. and without a auto oil cooler.

thanks

There is nothing different about install when you have auto tranny.

To be on a safe side I would install tranny cooler and window switch.

it sounds to me like your set man, and i've discussed the take-off procedure with you, so you're good to go there.
anyway, get a 190lph fuel pump, spark plugs/wires, the wet nx kit, and the window switch (id get it just to be on the safe side, IF your tranny did slip while u were spraying this would save u from doing more damage laugh.gif)
also always fill with the highest octane fuel you can get (or just buy some octane booster stuff), and don't spray until your in 2nd gear past or at 4000rpms

No spraying in 1st? 4000rpms in 2nd with auto tranny is at 50 mph or so.... I think he can spray in 1st...

until 4000 rpms of 2nd??.. no first?

why? i think that is maybe too late, but not sure, that is the safest way??? hope not. lol

If your going to spray first, you will need a window switch. Also, be prepared to wear down your drivetrain a lot faster. Although not as bad as spraying first with a manual, the sudden shock of a nitrous shot on top of first gear torque multiplication would really wear down parts.