85 shot nitrous QnA
08-14-2001, 07:54 AM
#2
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I sure hope you plan on doing more mods than what's in your sig, if you want to run 85 shot. To run that high, you're gonna need a much larger fuel supply/pump. Also, your engine internals will have to have some improvement also. Like pistons, camshaft, etc... Lets not forget the basics either like headers, exhaust, intake, ignition (especially plugs), etc...
As far as companies go, the easiest kit out on the market to hook up is the Zex kit. It's basically a "Plug And Spray" type of shot. Very easy. If you want something more intermediate, then go for NOS, or Nitrous Express. And finally, if you want something that is 100% safe, but a little tricky to hook up, then go for Venom. Zex is also one of the more cheaper kits out there. It will run you anywhere from $400-$550, depending on where you go. The Venom kit is by far the most expensive. Reason being it's so much money, and the most safest, is because it's all computer controlled. It monitors your engine and basically sprays the shot that's the most safest for you. That kit you're looking at $1,000 plus.
Nitrous is something to not take as a joke. If you're not careful, and don't do your homework on it, you could end up destroying your engine, and maybe even yourself or a friend. Make sure you read up on it through the forums, and even maybe checking out your local library or bookstore on this. The more you learn about it, the safer and better you and your engine will be. Good luck!
As far as companies go, the easiest kit out on the market to hook up is the Zex kit. It's basically a "Plug And Spray" type of shot. Very easy. If you want something more intermediate, then go for NOS, or Nitrous Express. And finally, if you want something that is 100% safe, but a little tricky to hook up, then go for Venom. Zex is also one of the more cheaper kits out there. It will run you anywhere from $400-$550, depending on where you go. The Venom kit is by far the most expensive. Reason being it's so much money, and the most safest, is because it's all computer controlled. It monitors your engine and basically sprays the shot that's the most safest for you. That kit you're looking at $1,000 plus.
Nitrous is something to not take as a joke. If you're not careful, and don't do your homework on it, you could end up destroying your engine, and maybe even yourself or a friend. Make sure you read up on it through the forums, and even maybe checking out your local library or bookstore on this. The more you learn about it, the safer and better you and your engine will be. Good luck!
08-14-2001, 09:09 AM
#3
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The only limit is your checkbook.
You *can* run a 150 shot on the stock internals without killing the car, but only if you're prepared to spend about $1500 on the nitrous kit and supporting equipment...
The stock internals are good for around 55 horsepower (dry shot, absolute max) on 100% stock everything. If you want more than 55 horsepower, you start upgrading things in approximately this order:
1. From 55 to around 75 - new high pressure high flow fuel pump is required. It's a good idea to have a better fuel pressure regulator as well, because you'll have to jack the stock fuel pressure through the roof to put up with a 75 dry shot.
2. From 75 to around 100 - in addition to above, you will have to transition to a wet shot system. The stock injectors do not have the capacity to feed a 75+ dry shot, so you have to get secondary injectors involved to get all the required fuel. Also will need an MSD DIS2 unit with the NOS ignition retard module. At this level, you also want to back off the activation point to something above 4000 RPM's.
3. From 100 to max of 150 shot, you will need to replace the wet shot single fogger with a full direct-port multi-stage system. Additional fuel injectors will need to be drilled into each intake runner, as well as a single fogger drilled into each intake runner as well. A nitrous pressure staging controller will also be required, so that nitrous can be added in "increments" or as a gradual increase per engine speed. This is in addition to all the above-mentioned equipment (MSD, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator on the secondary fuel rail)
4. For more than 150 shot, the motor gets replaced.
-Red-
You *can* run a 150 shot on the stock internals without killing the car, but only if you're prepared to spend about $1500 on the nitrous kit and supporting equipment...
The stock internals are good for around 55 horsepower (dry shot, absolute max) on 100% stock everything. If you want more than 55 horsepower, you start upgrading things in approximately this order:
1. From 55 to around 75 - new high pressure high flow fuel pump is required. It's a good idea to have a better fuel pressure regulator as well, because you'll have to jack the stock fuel pressure through the roof to put up with a 75 dry shot.
2. From 75 to around 100 - in addition to above, you will have to transition to a wet shot system. The stock injectors do not have the capacity to feed a 75+ dry shot, so you have to get secondary injectors involved to get all the required fuel. Also will need an MSD DIS2 unit with the NOS ignition retard module. At this level, you also want to back off the activation point to something above 4000 RPM's.
3. From 100 to max of 150 shot, you will need to replace the wet shot single fogger with a full direct-port multi-stage system. Additional fuel injectors will need to be drilled into each intake runner, as well as a single fogger drilled into each intake runner as well. A nitrous pressure staging controller will also be required, so that nitrous can be added in "increments" or as a gradual increase per engine speed. This is in addition to all the above-mentioned equipment (MSD, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator on the secondary fuel rail)
4. For more than 150 shot, the motor gets replaced.
-Red-
08-14-2001, 11:45 AM
#5
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Red maybe right with a few things there. But Im not sure on the engine even with those mods he mentions with the 75+. The piston rings as well as the head gaskets should be upgraded for something that high. Red also forgot one important thing to running nitro as well as superchargers and/or turbos. SPARK PLUGS. If your stock or after market are platinum you maybe fine but dont recommend it. Use the DENSO iridium plugs. They can handle as much as you can give the engine. The temperature range of these plugs far exceed what a turbo and 100 shot nitro system produces.
Now as far as making a fogger system completely safe all you need to do is these things:
use an RPM regulated switch from about 3000RPM on to 6000RPM off. Also use a full throttle position switch. THese switches can be integrated into the MSD DIS 2 ignition controller.
[ August 14, 2001: Message edited by: hawaiibullrider ]
Now as far as making a fogger system completely safe all you need to do is these things:
use an RPM regulated switch from about 3000RPM on to 6000RPM off. Also use a full throttle position switch. THese switches can be integrated into the MSD DIS 2 ignition controller.
[ August 14, 2001: Message edited by: hawaiibullrider ]
08-14-2001, 09:11 PM
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Well my ZEX kit works off of the throtle position sensor (only juicing at full throtle) And the tach (juicing only after 3000 rpms) That is why they call it the safest and easyest. The only thing I changed was the fuel pump and an ajustable fuel pressure regulator. For the fuel pump I used one from a Eclipse GST Turbo.
08-15-2001, 12:38 AM
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QUOTE
Originally posted by hawaiibullrider:
[QB]Red maybe right with a few things there. But Im not sure on the engine even with those mods he mentions with the 75+. The piston rings as well as the head gaskets should be upgraded for something that high.[/b]
[QB]Red maybe right with a few things there. But Im not sure on the engine even with those mods he mentions with the 75+. The piston rings as well as the head gaskets should be upgraded for something that high.[/b]
You forget that I have considerble numbers of contacts, and many of them are not in the states. There are currently FIVE people in Puerto Rico who are running either a 100 or 150 shot on their 100% stock internals Tiburon or Elantra by following the guidelines I posted. I didn't pull them out of my ass, I pulled them from the people who are using them. The oldest 150-shot Tiburon in Puerto Rico currently has 42,000 miles on it, and has been running that shot since about four months after he bought the car (98)
QUOTE
Originally posted by hawaiibullrider:Red also forgot one important thing to running nitro as well as superchargers and/or turbos. SPARK PLUGS. If your stock or after market are platinum you maybe fine but dont recommend it. Use the DENSO iridium plugs. They can handle as much as you can give the engine. The temperature range of these plugs far exceed what a turbo and 100 shot nitro system produces.
Ok, now it's time for me to ask YOU where you pulled that out of? Do you realize how COLD nitrous oxide is? Did you know that if you sprayed nitrous on your finger, 1/2 of a second is enough to cause severe frostbite to the point where you could LOSE the finger?
Plugs are nice for places where they're going to get HOT. For a car that's running nitrous, unless you are rebuilding the entire car to run NOTHING but nitrous (read: drag only trailer queen) then you want to use a plug that's very close to the stock configuration. Denso Iridium plugs are at least $12 a piece (no matter how you figure it), you can go through two dozen NGK V-Copper plugs of whatever heat range you want for that price.
You buy colder range plugs to make sure they don't act like a diesel glow plug after a few hard runs. You aren't going to have that problem with a huge nitrous shot -- you are instead going to have a hard time LIGHTING the charge because of the incredibly dense mixtures inside the combustion chamber. Plugs do not help this, an aftermarket ignition does. Hence the reason why I just suggested the MSD...
QUOTE
Originally posted by hawaiibullrider:use an RPM regulated switch from about 3000RPM on to 6000RPM off. Also use a full throttle position switch. THese switches can be integrated into the MSD DIS 2 ignition controller
These switches are part of nearly any basic ZEX kit. You also do NOT want to spray a 75-100 shot into the motor at 3000 RPM's unless you like busted rods or cracked pistons (shearing and torsional stress at 3000 RPM's with another sudden 100 horsepower on tap will be explosive more than likely). And in a progressive nitrous system, you can actually LOWER the initial shot to something around 2500 if you so desire, so long as you are dealing out a sufficiently small dosage at that RPM increment.
Perhaps you don't know me on this forum, but I've been around Hyundais for quite a long time. I came over here to the request of a few of the admins to assist in technical questions, and while I don't claim to know all, I will reply with what I do know from experience.
This is such a case.
-Red-
08-15-2001, 05:00 AM
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Got me impressed too!
I had my Kit installed at a place that specialize in compact sport cars called STREET HEAT Largo Florida. They work with nitrous and turbos all day so I trust them. They tested everything before installing the kit, to see how big of a shot my fuel system could handle. I was going to just use the 50 hp nozle but they said with the gst fuel pump and adjustable regulator 75 hp should be fine. They chose the plugs and set the fuel pressure. They cost a little more than other shops but I didn't want any problems.
I had my Kit installed at a place that specialize in compact sport cars called STREET HEAT Largo Florida. They work with nitrous and turbos all day so I trust them. They tested everything before installing the kit, to see how big of a shot my fuel system could handle. I was going to just use the 50 hp nozle but they said with the gst fuel pump and adjustable regulator 75 hp should be fine. They chose the plugs and set the fuel pressure. They cost a little more than other shops but I didn't want any problems.