Will these be ok with the stock wiring?
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Agreed. You people can trade credentials all you like, but can we not do it here?
Most people are unfamiliar with the concept, but most of the time even fairly loud music is still in the one to five watts power level. If you can hear a conversation without hollering, it's probably way less than 20 watts. That's why most people will never have a problem with stock speaker wiring: they aren't pushing it hard at all.
Most people are unfamiliar with the concept, but most of the time even fairly loud music is still in the one to five watts power level. If you can hear a conversation without hollering, it's probably way less than 20 watts. That's why most people will never have a problem with stock speaker wiring: they aren't pushing it hard at all.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
What channels on what amp are you bridging to what speakers and what wiring configuration are you using to see a 2ohm load? Are the tweets 4ohm or 8ohm models?
Hitting 140dB for $1000 isn't bad at all. I am pretty sure you could get a decent increase in dB and SQ by wiring everything up optimally though.
My "high dollar setup" was around $600. I didn't just throw money at it. I did pick my components carefully though.
Your setup is a fire hazard. If you feel the need to call people names over the internet vs. educating yourself that's your own problem.
As an admin, would you prefer I deleted the post where you suggest that someone tried a configuration which is unsafe according to science, or attempt to enlighten those who may not know any better? Because I'm for damn sure not going to just leave it there unopposed for people to read and possibly try without offering the scientifically backed opposing view.
Hitting 140dB for $1000 isn't bad at all. I am pretty sure you could get a decent increase in dB and SQ by wiring everything up optimally though.
My "high dollar setup" was around $600. I didn't just throw money at it. I did pick my components carefully though.
Your setup is a fire hazard. If you feel the need to call people names over the internet vs. educating yourself that's your own problem.
As an admin, would you prefer I deleted the post where you suggest that someone tried a configuration which is unsafe according to science, or attempt to enlighten those who may not know any better? Because I'm for damn sure not going to just leave it there unopposed for people to read and possibly try without offering the scientifically backed opposing view.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 110
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From: Europe
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0 G4GF-EG
As you probably understood from the other posts: it largely depends on your anticipated load.
Safety: The wires are fine if you plan on staying in your car when listening to music. My system is a bit larger and I do like loud music and my wires did not even get warm after 1 hour of testing (more on how I connected it below). If you feel the need to show off with your car being parked and you not being in the car you should upgrade them.
Quality and Efficiency of the speaker system do partially depend on the resistance of the connections. As you probably know resistance depends on the length and diameter of the wire. You should always try to minimise the distances and keep the wire length as symmetrical as possible for left and right channel. Use a large diameter wire - 3mm˛ (so 6mm˛ per speaker) does suffice and is easy to run (the cheapest you can find is OK). I would personally stay away from wire taps and solder the connection between new wire and stock wire (use adequate insulation). I did so about 20 cm from the plug where it leaves the interior to the door, so I am able to undo it if I sell the car(I also kept the stock speakers).
Good luck!
