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What amps does everyone have?

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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Default What amps does everyone have?

My amp finally bit the dust. It was an old 2 channel Mtx that was given to me and has definitely seen better days. For the past year and a half it did its job but now its time for something better and new. My speakers are connected to my cd player which is fine for me. I just need a good 2 channel amp to run my 12" JL Audio 12W3. So suggestions please! Thanks.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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If anything is good enough, hit up the clearance section of your favorite online audio stuff retailer.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Don't go for a bridged stereo-amp to drive your sub. It is inferior compared to a monoblock.

Is this your type of woofer? Link to JL site

Is yours 4 or 2 Ohm?

4 Ohm and 300 Watts - ESX SE series - I am quite happy with the predecessor.

But I think ESX is not really that popular in the US.

For the same quality I would go for JL Audio in the US: JL Audio JX 500/1 quite cheap for you: ebay

A rule of thumb is not to buy an amp which is a lot more expensive than the attached speaker(-s).

Some more data on your blown amp and the amount you intend to spend and whether you are open for revised amps or second hand amps would make searching easier.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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I have a 5 channel Soundstream Tarantula running the entire sound system.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 02:33 PM
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i use a set of audiobahn amps the sub amp is 3200watt 1ohm stable









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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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hidden mono JBL 3501 amp behind the back seat of the car to power the sub (GT5-S12 if i remember the model correctly).

lIjL4l.jpg



4 channel JBL 1004 amp at the trunk. i plan on having the layout changed soon. i'm finding the current one too heavy. i might resort to conservative fiberglass molds instead of a slotted box setup.

56mE1l.jpg



4 channel amp powering these guys. i'm in need of new serious separates lol.

88pSp.jpg
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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Audiopipe 1500.1D... but i need another hehe (^^,)
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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-1 to everything Tomte wrote. Disregard.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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I think that the neg rep was a bit harsh. Anyhow. Since Stocker's comments usually have a valid point I would appreciate a more elaborate explanation why I'm so wrong.



I'll elaborate on my part:

My guess is that the thing with the monoblock was probably the issue. Frogger asked for a 2-channel amp and I said he shouldn't do that. Opinions vary on the subject.

Why monoblock?

I noticed that most people seem to mix up the classes of amps. If we assume an equal build quality, the class D amplifiers are more energy-efficient than class A/B by design. Unfortunately they are more prone to distort the signal. Hence the opinion of people that multi-channel amps are more precise than monoblocks as most of them are class A/B amplifiers whereas monoblocks are often class D. The bridged amplifier needs to be stable at 1 Ohm impedance (sub 2Ohm impedance), which implies more costs if the same quality has to be attained as a none-bridged amp suitable for 2 Ohm impedance.

The options I gave:

I suggested class-D amplifiers (I own an ESX class D monoblock and was complimented on the precision of the sound several times), but knowing that class-A/B amps are better soundwise I suggested a class A/B from a brand that is more popular in the states, but has also been tested and compared with systems I know and was found to be at least equal to my setup (german test 1 and test 2). Both were found to be "upper class" like the amp I use to drive my sub of similar quality.

Why revised or second hand?

Revised amplifiers usually come with a guarantee and are cheaper than their new counterparts. Second hand is a good option if you can listen to the setup before you buy it. There are also cosmetically damaged amps, which are technically intact (B-selection) for sale in shops.



And why is asking for some more info wrong?



I would really appreciate if you gave some reasons for the neg rep.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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Edit: In order to contribute to the thread, this is the sort of thing I had in mind: Crutchfield's clearance section.



But that would be a last resort for me these days. I used to be very wary of eBay, but since I found out (by doing it for a living) what it takes to have a 99.8% feedback rating, my first instinct is to shop elsewhere and buy from a highly rated eBay seller.

/Edit



For Tomte:



Because that was the quality of information I expect out of a morning FM talk show between bad pop music and celebrity gossip. Lots of impressions and stuff you heard, with not so much behind it that it would stand up to criticism.



(uh-oh, too many quotes. Going with colons instead of the Quote tag then)



Tomte:

Don't go for a bridged stereo-amp to drive your sub. It is inferior compared to a monoblock.

/Tomte

Not necessarily, and definitely not categorically.

Besides, the OP asked for a two-channel amp to run a DVC woofer. With a monoblock, you have to blend the signals somewhere beside the speaker or else lose one channel altogether. He didn't say anything about bridging.



Tomte:

Is this your type of woofer? Link to JL site

/Tomte

Server not found

Firefox can't find the server at www.12w3v3.com.



Tomte:

ESX SE series - I am quite happy with the predecessor.

/Tomte

A solid recommendation for sure, from a well established company



Tomte:

But I think ESX is not really that popular in the US.

/Tomte

Popular is not the same as good, and who cares what is popular for car amplifiers, anyhow?



Tomte:

For the same quality I would go for JL Audio in the US: JL Audio JX 500/1 quite cheap for you: ebay

/Tomte

Cheap is a relative thing, but again not a bad choice at all



Tomte:

A rule of thumb is not to buy an amp which is a lot more expensive than the attached speaker(-s).

/Tomte

No. Not even close, and not even considering retail pricing. When you do not buy at retail, the prices can be all over the map. Retail pricing on my sub amp was something like 4x the retail price of the sub, but I paid less for the amp than for the sub, because the amp was second hand and the sub was not.



Tomte:

Some more data on your blown amp and the amount you intend to spend and whether you are open for revised amps or second hand amps would make searching easier.

/Tomte

The point of this thread was that the OP wanted something different to what was previously used, I thought, or at least recommendations.



Tomte:

I think that the neg rep was a bit harsh. Anyhow. Since Stocker's comments usually have a valid point I would appreciate a more elaborate explanation why I'm so wrong.

/Tomte

Well, you did ask...



Tomte:

My guess is that the thing with the monoblock was probably the issue.

/Tomte

in part, yes



Tomte:

Frogger asked for a 2-channel amp and I said he shouldn't do that. Opinions vary on the subject.

Why monoblock?

I noticed that most people seem to mix up the classes of amps.

/Tomte

Yes, like you did just here and not only classes but you are approaching conflation with configurations as well. Classes have to do with the circuitry. Classes have nothing to do with the number of amplifiers sharing the same power supply.



Tomte:

If we assume an equal build quality, the class D amplifiers are more energy-efficient than class A/B by design.

/Tomte

No. This depends on circuit design, not only build quality.



Tomte:

Unfortunately they are more prone to distort the signal.

/Tomte

No.



Tomte:

Hence the opinion of people that multi-channel amps are more precise than monoblocks as most of them are class A/B amplifiers whereas monoblocks are often class D.

/Tomte

Everyone is entitled to his opinion, after all, regardless of how informed or uninformed (or disinformed?) it may be. "Most" doesn't have anything to do with just the one for this car. There are also Class D multi-channel amplifiers out there and you could find a class A/B monoblock without looking too hard. This all is beside the point anyway. Class D and A/B can both be designed to have pretty low distortion . . . which doesn't matter anyhow in a car subwoofer because it is the WORST possible normal listening environment. You'll be well over 10% THD before you start to notice your sub is not playing cleanly.



Tomte:

The bridged amplifier needs to be stable at 1 Ohm impedance (sub 2Ohm impedance), which implies more costs if the same quality has to be attained as a none-bridged amp suitable for 2 Ohm impedance.

/Tomte

Again, you brought up the bridging. You may be right, but when I hear 2 channel 2 voice coil, I think stereo. YES if you want your amp to survive, the impedance rating of the amp has to be at least as low as the nominal impedance of the speaker system.



Tomte:

The options I gave:

I suggested class-D amplifiers (I own an ESX class D monoblock and was complimented on the precision of the sound several times),

/Tomte

Congratulations, especially if YOU enjoy the sound (the most important bit! ) Understand that the amplifier is only part of having clean sub bass. The box is at least as important, and yours must be done right if it sounds well.



Tomte:

but knowing that class-A/B amps are better soundwise

/Tomte

Feeling/thinking/opining vs. knowing here, eh.



Tomte:

I suggested a class A/B from a brand that is more popular in the states, but has also been tested and compared with systems I know and was found to be at least equal to my setup (german test 1 and test 2). Both were found to be "upper class" like the amp I use to drive my sub of similar quality.

/Tomte

Good amp, yes, probably. Good links for English speakers? Well not so much!



Tomte:

Why revised or second hand?

Revised amplifiers usually come with a guarantee and are cheaper than their new counterparts. Second hand is a good option if you can listen to the setup before you buy it. There are also cosmetically damaged amps, which are technically intact (B-selection) for sale in shops.

/Tomte

I think the word you want is "refurbished." It varies wildly from company to company, but from a good company or their authorized dealers, with a factory warranty, refurbishment is NOT a mark of inferiority. I used to refurbish electronics (of an entirely different sort) and sometimes the refurbished parts went out with 100% new everything. . . sometimes they went out with only a failed part replaced . . . but all of them tested. Then again, ours was a very good company.



Second-hand is also a good idea especially if you can get the amp(s) demonstrated before buying or with a warranty from a store with a good return policy. I have second-hand amplifiers in my car and they have been there longer than a decade now.



Cosmetic damage only matters if you care about cosmetics and can't fix the damage yourself.



Tomte:

And why is asking for some more info wrong?

/Tomte

It almost never is.



Tomte:

I would really appreciate if you gave some reasons for the neg rep.

/Tomte

There you have a thorough fisking.
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