Subs: Two Diamond Audio 15"
Amp: One Rockford Fosgate 500bd

I want to buy a capacitor with a digital voltage readout. I have two 15's that hit EXTREMELY loud. I want to be able to test these and see just how many dB I can get from them.

My head unit subwoofer controls range from -6 to +6...
My head unit has a "Loudness" control, which provides extra power. I leave it turned off, but turning on makes subs hit almost DOUBLE
My RF amp is turned to about 40%

When I want to hit HARD, subwoofer is set at +2, Loudness OFF, Amp at 40% and I'm driving on the interstate at 80MPH to keep alternator belt turning and everything moving, and my battery voltage drops from 14.1 to 12.? on the regular bass notes. It'd probably kill my battery if I wasn't driving. I can't physically listen to it any louder without making my eardrums HURT and bleed, but I want to test it (with me out of the car of course). I'm going to get an Optima battery, Would a 1Farad cap be enough? I honestly don't think it would.

I want to turn the loudness on, subwoofer output to +6, and turn the amp's power up. I've been told the subs won't be nearly blown with the power.
To give you perspective, I listen to it daily at -2 and the highest I can go is +2 and still keep my hearing.

 

is that "500 dB"?

I ran a search on e-bay for "digital capacitor" and came up with this. That's what they call them even though it's a capacitor with a digital readout, and a capacitor is a completely analog device, "digital cap".

http://cgi.ebay.com/Xpress-CA155XS-1-5-Far...1QQcmdZViewItem

It should work. You're running a mid-ear deffening system, you need an entry level capacitor.

There is not an advantage to spending moeny on a name brand capacitor. Reaction time is not a property of a capacitor. Capacitors have 0 resistance, they have strictly capacitance. Don't spend alot of money on a cap.

as for your battery, you need to decide if you're going to run it with the car off or while the car's running mostly. this is the order of importance for choosing your battery.

1: deep cycle or standard battery (has to do with construction of battery- deep cycle costs more)
2. CCA (cold cranking amps- how much power can get out at once)
3. rated hours of use/mileage gaurantee/something which protects you as a customer



oh, and a capacitor will get the most out of your battery... not your speakers. it supplys quick power so that you can not discharge and recharge your battery at 400hz (or whatever frequency of music you're listening to). It is meant as a protection device for your battery, but it also works for the rest of the electrical system as a voltage stablizer. An extra battery means that you will have to replace 2 batteries when you decide to replace them and 1/2 as often.

 

caps are truefully useless untill you have an upgraded alternator also. dont use a cap as a band aid. if u want to do it correctly, u need to have your alt bumped up

im running two 15 inch ground zero nukes, with two mtx 1501D amps. putting out 3600 watt RMS combined, or 1800 watts RMS to 1 ohm each amp. running 0 gauge, yellow top, and 160 amp alt. no cap needed.

 

500bd is the model of the Rockford Amp.

I was going to get an Optima Blue Top Deep Cycle Battery. The CCA's are better on those than my current battery (which is pretty good also).

I know it won't help my subs, but it'll protect my battery so that I can run my subs louder. I'm afraid to have my Volts drop below 13.0 on my battery since it runs a steady 14.1 all the time.

I know I have to get my alternator upgraded, but don't have that much cash to spend YET. That'll be something to come along later, hopefully sooner than later.

Amp info here: http://www.audioonlineoutlet.com/rockamp3.html

 

check it out, this is what i got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tsunami-10-FARAD-Digit...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

BE CAREFUL ABOUT BUYING FROM THAT EBAY SELLER.

The stuff he pictures is NOT what you get.
I bought some stuff from him and it was not the same as what was pictured. Look carefully at his discription: It says no electronics or neon on the cap.

For some reason, he only has the cap and not the top half of it, and sells them like that. So you get some other top for your cap.

Mine works fine, but I was really disappointed when I got it. Of course, it's not a pretty as it was supposed to be either.

 

Guys, I carry a new line of batteries called Super Cell. They are dry cell batteries, that are about half the weight, and stronger than the best optimas out there.

If you've ever heard of Kenetic Batteries on Pimp My Ride, or in mags, or at shows, then you'll know about Super Cell, since they are the same company. I just picked this company up on Thursday last week. I'll get some specs and pics up, but these things are CRAZY better than Optima. Only diff between Kenetic and Super Cell, is that the latter is Black, and the Kenetics are Blue. They have batteries that are 2400 cold cranking amps. They absolutely powdered hand b!tch slap Optima batteries.

I think they're pretty clost to you too Majik. Let me make a post in Flyryde about em, and tell me what you think.

Check em out: http://kinetikpower.com/

Their lowest model, is called the "Cap Killer" as these make a capacitor pointless.

 

Ah yeah! Kinetik was at the last show, like you told me they would be. I tried finding the Cali people but they were sharing a tent with MA Audio and I could never find the guys from Kinetik. I wasn't at the show as often as I wanted since my sister graduated HS that saturday, but I saw them there.

Chris, find out if they be at the NOPI show in Knoxville, if you can. I'll meet them up there and look into the battery stuff. They're more expensive than I wanted, but look small and seem powerful. Do they have a Tennessee location? Am I able to get recognition for you if I buy from them?


Ah - 60
Lbs - 39
AMPS - 1500
CA - 1150
L x W x H - 9" x 5.3" x 8.1" - $350 suggested retail

 

ive had the yellow top installed since 01 and been through multiple DB drags with it hitting at best a 158.6 @ 40htz back in 03 when i retired out of it. i highly doubt most people here would need anything more. no reason to downgrade a really good product that has lasted, and millions stand behind.

not trying to hate, just seems like your downing a good product.

but back on topic, whats the prices your getting for the Super Cells? my one complaint is yellow kinda sticks out on a blue car, and ive been thinking about picking up a optima blue top, but im really liking the idea of a lighter battery. plus if the CCA are what u claim, thats just insane.

 

Ok, first I'm going to straight up call you a lier and then i'm going to explain why.

A capacitor will help out any vehical with a sterio system. It Levels voltage by keeping current steady in a circuit. Same exact effect as a voltage stablizer. Everyone with a sterio of 300 RMS or more should have a cap.

Your sterio without an upgraded alternator would not work.

Now we all know that the stock alternator puts out 90A for juice. Your vehical, with all accessories turned off will be drawing around 50A Your 1800RMS draws 120A!!!! That's a grand total of 170A from your 90A alternator. Your car will die quickly if you turn it on durring a bass drop! When you hit a extended bass drop with that much draw, your battery will fry! Your car should be dropping RPM when you hit a bass drop and it should be straining the alternator to the point of it overheating and being destroyed

A capacitor supplies power like a seccond battery durring the high and low portion of the sine wave comming off of your amplifier. It charges much quicker then a battery does. Therefore, a capacitor will be able to supply more power then your battery and your battery will be used in reserve.

But there's nothing that can be done for your "sterio system".... sorry guy, looks like you're doomed.

edit: my bad... that's 246A off of your amplifiers at 3600W RMS. For a grand total of 296 A from your 90A alternator.

900W RMS is what your vehical will handle on the stock alternator. Don't let people fool you.



and that's with a capacitor for sure.