Interior, Sound, Security Modifications to the Interior of your Hyundai. Seats, Carpet, Car Audio & Entertainment, interior painting, security, etc..

Sound Deadening Car??

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Old May 14, 2005 | 09:06 PM
  #11  
ruffedgeinc's Avatar
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QUOTE (Mad-Machine @ May 14 2005, 08:59 PM)
almost looks like all those NASA pictures of satillites wrapped in their heatsheilding. It does look good though, what is the weight?



thanks guys

havent put the subs in
still trying to find a way to feed the power cable to the back from the battery

but you can notice a big difference in teh amount of road noise
if you ever notice when you put the back seats down you can hear some road noise and everything
well now after doing this project with the back seats down it feels like they are up and its even more quiter on top of that. it awesome

the weight i am not to sure but when lifting the whole roll (in the background) at the start i say maybe 60lbs?

also if someone can point me in the right direction (pictures help) of how to feed a power cable from the batter to the front that would be great B)
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Old May 14, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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That looks great. Very nice and clean too. That is something I have been looking into too. Let me know how it goes and how good it quiets down the rattling. Here is a little help for running your power wire.

I found the best place you can use to run the Battery wire for the Amp. Bear with me with the photoshop and the directions. I will try to do my best to explain. Sorry for the pics being so big, still having problems with getting them smaller.





As you can see in the second picture I ran the wire around and under the fuse box. There is a opening where you can run it into the side fender just to the right of battery.
Remove the tire and also remove the top and right( as if you are looking at it in the picture) plastic mud guard, or move it out of the way the best you could. You would run the wire inside of the fender just above the top guard then down the right side.
Now for the best thing I found. There is a rubber gromet towards the bottom that you can take out and it is the perfect size for a 4 guage wire. To get the wire inside of the car, move the fuse box that is inside under the dash on the left side and I think you have to move some of the carpet out of the way. You should be able to see the other side of the opening of where the wire will run though.
Just run it through there and down the side of the car in that black plastic liner (not sure what's it called, lol). Then what I did is run it under the back seat and into the trunk.
I hope that helps any, let me know if you have any questions.
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Old May 15, 2005 | 05:23 AM
  #13  
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good responce.. I am sure people will use your advice..

Now, back to the sound deadening.. only 60 pounds? I would live with that much weight added to the car, especially if I keep it towards the floor and rear.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 05:49 AM
  #14  
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u should also pack in the open areas in your fenders with poly fill, it helped me out quite a bit.



off topic a bit, but going through the drivers side fender is what i had to do to run my 0/1 gauge. i believe i had to ubolt my fuse box to get it through there also.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 07:22 AM
  #15  
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That pic did a good job of clarifying things Firebug.
BTW, nice car, you should enter it in the COTM May contest that's going on right now.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #16  
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thanks firebug21 for the pics and the instructions

I was able to do it without having to remove the tire or most of the inner mud guard.

I will post pics of my install shortly
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Old May 16, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #17  
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i didnt remove my tire, or inner fender, i used a yard stick to guide the 0/1 gauge through the fender, to the open area right next to the battery.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 03:53 PM
  #18  
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Your trunk looks awesome, you covered a good bit more than me. Any fitment issues with the top of the hatch area covered? I'm wondering if the plastic cover still snaps right in.

I need to cover the corners a bit more on my install, but I held off at the time since I was planning on fiberglassing sub enclosures in each corner, cutting the removeable panels for extra depth.

I think I put the weight in my fatmat thread, but I weighed the rolls before and then the cardboard/paper afterwards to get an accurate install weight. I recently took my door covers off and it's still sticking 100% months later, I didn't use heat when installing and despite it being winter when I put it in, no problems. Good product. No stinking car either since it's butyl and not asphalt-based.

firebug21 is right, that grommet is the best place to run cables. I wish I had found it before I drilled the firewall. I did use it to run wire to my door though.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #19  
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i just purchased 120 sq ft of edead v1...

http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=9&...eatures&cur=USD

i went with this over fatmat after reading through a bunch of car audio forums. plus, i wanted a little bit more than 100 sq ft, but didnt want to purchase 150 from the main fatmat seller, as he would not combine shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...DME:B:EOTB:MT:6
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Old May 21, 2005 | 05:00 AM
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I avoided edead because v1 is asphalt based, thin and no aluminum layer. Their v1 SE is comparable to Fatmat, but Fatmat was a better deal and was lighter. Edead v1 is more square footage for the money though, and all sound deadeners do a good job when applied to the thin sheet metal used on cars anyway.

Although original dynamat really sucks.

Take product comparison threads and user testimonials comparing brands with skepticism, since reps from all the different companies love to join in without mentioning who they represent, especially on the larger sound forums.
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