Hope this is in the right spot...
I took out my gauge cluster to put on some faces I got.
I removed all 4 needles carefully with a small fork.
When I put the needles back on and the gauge cluster back in place the
needles were FUBAR.
I was "idling at 6000 rpms and my speedo wouldn't move from 30mph" if you know what i mean.
I dunno if I put the needles back in wrong or what?
Tibby01 or anybody know what I did wrong and how to fix it?
Sorry for the trouble.

 

It's kind of an easy fix man. Basically you put the speedo one on too hard and the rpm, well, I think you can firgure that one out.

First take everything apart again and leave the plastic cover off until you're done. For the RPM you normally idle just under 1000, so place the needle somewhere around there and you should be fine. If you want something exact, see if you can find someone with a tach and tap intop the tach wire to get a correct measurement. For the speedo get someone to follow onto the highway, set the cruise at 60mph/100kph, or whichever, and set it up that way. Be sure not to put them on too hard cause the faces make the cluster thicker.

http://www.importshark.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=253

Follow this if I confused you. It's from Mr. tib in the IS forums.

 

1. use thin double sided tape on the backs of the new gauges.

2. push the needles on LIGHTLY. just barely enough so they rest on those little black pins when you turn the car on.

3. for calibrating:

speedo-take needle off. start car. put needle on at zero.

rpm-take needle off, start car. put needle on between 800 and 1k rpms when it is idling. when the car is turned off, it should BARELY rest on the litle black pin.

temp.-start car, take needle off. let the car sit for 15 min. put needle back on in the middle.

fuel- go fill up, take needle off. put it back on at the full mark. drive as far down to e as you can, and make sure everything seems ok when you get down really low.

just remember, with calibrating all the needles, you gotta take the needles off and move them, not just move them.

 

Hope you get it fixed using the above.

A search would have found it too.

The other deal you can do for speed is get someone next to you on a long clear stretch of freeway going 60 on Cruise Control, stock rims. Then set yours and set your needle.

 

OKay, thanks chris I did what you said...I kinda figured it out myself, this was a pretty noob thread to begin with. I was up late and started the car and all the needles were outta whack so i thoguht i screwed sumthin up.
Well, I got em fixed and now everything's fine...

REDZ, I tried searching...for some reason no matter what i type in I get:
No results were found for this search
I had some luck on the old site but when i search this one I have NO luck whatsoever.

NEW NOOB QUESTION:
I probably shoulda figured this out before I started installing the gauges but I don't know which wire to tap into for the positive lead coming from the gauges? Right now I have a temporary set up (9V battery and some duct tape) but I'd like for them to come on when I turn my parking lights or headlights on (like the stock gauge faces were).
Which wire should I use? I have no clue where the headlight and parking lamp wires are.

 

you can do it a bunch of ways.

tap into the dimmer switch wires. black from your gauges to the black wire on the dimmer switch. red power wire from your gauges to the green/white wire on the dimmer switch.

if you want to get real nifty, on the back of the cluster, there is a screw that is illuminations positve. just follow circuits to it, there should be writing somewhere saying its the one. its on the fuel/temp side. then there is also a solder point for the ground thats easy to get to near that screw. if you can solder, i would go for that one.

but the dimmer switch location is really easy to get to, and all you have to do is get some quick crimp on connectors and you're all set. you can get em from walmart or an auto parts store.