Interior, Sound, Security Modifications to the Interior of your Hyundai. Seats, Carpet, Car Audio & Entertainment, interior painting, security, etc..

Pumped To Get My Subs Back

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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #11  
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Note about wiring: The pivot for the hatch hydraulics doesn't work as a ground. I figured I'd give it a shot since it was a metal bolt and I figured I'd get a connection through the nut (since I was tightening against the plastic piece on there I knew I wouldn't get a connection on that side) and into the bolt. Turns out you can only draw about 9 or 10 volts through there, and if you're like me you'll get real worried that you've got a dying alt.

Actually made my setup act really odd. The capacitor showed the 9 or 10 volts, but then never stayed constant enough to turn off, and the amp stayed on (as in the LED indicator) constantly, and wouldn't turn off with the deck or when I turned off the car itself. Needless to say, I also wasn't getting any sound from the subs.

So I've got it grounded underneath that plastic piece that the rear deck thing usually rests on, but I can't figure a good way to keep the 4 gauge wire hooked up there AND get that plastic piece back on.

Anyone have a genius ground point that I'm missing?
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 04:26 PM
  #12  
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strut tower bolts.

there is also some thin metal that makes a good point, even though its thin. its the part where the antenna mounts to the inside, at the bottom.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 04:43 PM
  #13  
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I got one of those grounding terminals, ground out a spot of paint and planted that sucker to the body, screwed it down and good to go. 14.4+ V when Car is on.

I like my Kickers... I have 2 - 10" Kicker L7s in a Dual Sealed Encloser. Just don't care for all the rattle my car makes. lol.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 02:58 PM
  #14  
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Got it working a few days ago with everything put back together. Ended up running the wire into the side panel through the opening in the carpet where the back seat latches when it's in the up position. From there it runs up to the unpainted metal piece right above the strut tower where I've got it bolted on. Great connection and it works really well.

It's sweet too because with the subs in I had to take out that trunk cover piece because my setup is too tall and now you can see the glowing Fosgate emblem and blue LED's from my CAP through the hatch. Downside: I just tripled my break in risk.

Also got my Konig 16's on! I'm a happy man.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 03:39 PM
  #15  
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I've got a 12" sony xplod. It's not the kind you'll find in walmart though. It's a 1400W max. I think they sell 800W or so at walmart. Either way.... It's a good speaker. Take that as a review.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #16  
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^^^

Mine's the same kind. I guess I should have specified between that and the $50 walmart variety.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #17  
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^^ yeah, you ever get the "That's just ONE 12?" remark? I love that.



DOH! just re-read.... You wouldn't because you've got 2. I have just 1.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 05:54 PM
  #18  
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Heh, yeah, I've got a pair. Honestly though the soudn prolly wouldn't be much different between mine and yours, since I'm underpowering my pair with the amp I've got right now.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #19  
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quick question about grounding since its sort of on topic,

keep getting alternator whine but if the amps are near the floor grounding to a strut would be far wouldnt it? shouldnt it be about 12" or less?

and with a ground bolt, if i stick it in the spare tire well is that just as good as if i put it somewhere else? (if ground to metal) and is it ok to ground 2 amps to 1 bolt or should i seperate them

sorry, sorta turned into more of a question =/

OT though, i've never heard the 1400w sonys play, but if your happy with them fing02.gif
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 10:05 PM
  #20  
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^^ u probly got your RCAs running too close to your power wires.
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