Overpulling Audio System
04-07-2007, 01:44 AM
#1
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Hey guys, just a quick question...
Currently when my subs hit they pull 150-180+amps from the 12F cap. Thus causing my HID's H3/H7 to dim on relays with a Yellowtop and 0awg grounding cables on everything audio, along with under the engine bay and battery.
What else can I do to reduce this issue? Will upgrading the ALT assist?
Currently when my subs hit they pull 150-180+amps from the 12F cap. Thus causing my HID's H3/H7 to dim on relays with a Yellowtop and 0awg grounding cables on everything audio, along with under the engine bay and battery.
What else can I do to reduce this issue? Will upgrading the ALT assist?
04-07-2007, 08:08 AM
#3
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Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
you shouldnt have wasted your money on a cap and you should have bought a kinetic battery which has the power of over 1000 caps. didnt your stereo shop tell you that when you were buying things??
they run about 150ish and you wont have the diming lights issue anymore.
they run about 150ish and you wont have the diming lights issue anymore.
04-07-2007, 08:19 AM
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Lol.. Wasted my money eh? I was looking into one of those, but no room to still have the trunk space I was looking for along with making the audio system flow looks wise. Plus can't be inside the vehicle when it is hitting that hard anyways. Just a car show thing, prefer to have the H3/H7's running b/c they are pretty fing02.gif It purely a show system that maintains full functionality of my trunk.
Cap matches Amp, and they sit perfectly floating in the back of my trunk.
Getting back to my original question~
Is that the only thing that will help, Amp is over pulling Cap, thus batt and lights dim just a little(Only at 175+)
Note-Oh and sorry I don't waste unnecessary money @audio shops when I can do the installation myself for 1/2 the price.
Cap matches Amp, and they sit perfectly floating in the back of my trunk.
Getting back to my original question~
Is that the only thing that will help, Amp is over pulling Cap, thus batt and lights dim just a little(Only at 175+)
Note-Oh and sorry I don't waste unnecessary money @audio shops when I can do the installation myself for 1/2 the price.
04-07-2007, 11:14 AM
#6
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Trance: Dude, 180 amps? The alternator only supplies 90. Even with that much capacitance, If you disconnected your battery your car will stall. That's crazy. How much amps are the fuse ratings on the amplifiers?
No battery has the power of a capacitor. Batteries have a charge/discharge lifecycle. If you use a battery instead of a cap, you will end up replacing 2 batteries instead of one, and alot quicker then if you hooked up a capacitor in the first place.
If you fully charge a capacitor and a battery, that might be true. A battery will discharge 1000 times slower then a capacitor. But the capacitor will discharge and charge faster then the battery which means less drain on your primary car battery.
Trust me, this is the 2nd time you've said that. Do some research and stop listening to the guys trying to sell you $150 batteries.
QUOTE (optimoprime @ Apr 7 2007, 10:08 AM)
you shouldnt have wasted your money on a cap and you should have bought a kinetic battery which has the power of over 1000 caps. didnt your stereo shop tell you that when you were buying things??
they run about 150ish and you wont have the diming lights issue anymore.
they run about 150ish and you wont have the diming lights issue anymore.
No battery has the power of a capacitor. Batteries have a charge/discharge lifecycle. If you use a battery instead of a cap, you will end up replacing 2 batteries instead of one, and alot quicker then if you hooked up a capacitor in the first place.
If you fully charge a capacitor and a battery, that might be true. A battery will discharge 1000 times slower then a capacitor. But the capacitor will discharge and charge faster then the battery which means less drain on your primary car battery.
Trust me, this is the 2nd time you've said that. Do some research and stop listening to the guys trying to sell you $150 batteries.