Okay. Hooking up the speakers out of phase won't cause them to not work...

Let's see if I have the install straight in my head...

You are using the stock head unit, correct?
Assuming that you are doing that, you are using line-level converters to hook into the amp, OR you are using high level inputs on your amplifier.

If you put the speaker leads to an RCA, with no line level converter, you are going to have all kinds of greif. The amplifier supplies an impedance of several kOhms on the line level input, because typical active devices (op amps) cannot drive the current needed for low impedance. By comparison, the speaker output from the deck amplifier isn't going to like the high impedance offered by the line level input. You NEED the line level converters, or a high level input to the amplifier.

Okay, now we need to know what all the amplifier is powering. I know you'd mentioned 3 JL subs, and now you're talking about a pair of 6X9s.

Is the amp a 4 channel, or are you using some sort of passive crossover?

A system diagram would help, even just a description of what is wired where and how. Start at the head unit, and describe what is connected where. For example:

The head unit powers the front speakers on it's internal amp. The rear speaker leads are connected to line level converters, which each have a "Y" cable to connect to the inputs of a 4 channel amplifier. Amplifier channels 1 and 2 are run full-range to a pair of 6X9s, and channels 3 and 4 are run with a low-pass to 10" subs.

That would give all the detail that we need to give more useful troubleshooting tips.

 

You know first of all wiring speaker out of phase can cause them not to work, second Y adaptors will help in the process but why spend 10-20 dollars when alittle time will do the same. And finally although this might seem harsh but I really don't care at this point Dan everytime I answer an electronics post you combat me and try to make me look like a fool I hate to tell you but I have more experience and am far more qualified to reply to these post than you I am a Master Certified MECP installer and have been doing this for 12 years in 1998 I was ranked as one of the 50 top installers in the usa in mobile electronics weekly. So please if you are going to post thats fine and that's what we are all here for to help each other but cut the **** with the digs on me it's getting alittle bit tired. Thanks. And by the way if you are worried that my steps are wrong ask Tunez to verify my steps although like I said they may take some time you will not have to spend any more cash and will eliminate every possible problem.

 

How about.... I take pictures.. smile.gif

~Drew

 

That would work, and Whoop I'm sorry I exploded in your post but I'm getting a tad bit tired with the digs so again sorry

 

Hey man, dont worry about it.
#1. I'm a very laid back guy
#2. Everyone hates it when someone knocks their ****, espcecially when you KNOW you're saying the right thing.
#3. Smile

I'm taking pictures... now. smile.gif tongue.gif

 

Here are the pictures.... and remember, the wire you see is connect to NOTHING on the other end so far. smile.gif

Speaker Pic 1
Speaker Pic 2
Speaker Pic 3
Speaker Pic 4

I hope this helps.

 

Jaws99: Hey, I'm not trying to knock you in any way, shape, or form. I know that you know your stuff, and I have a lot of respect for what you say. I'm not a master installer, just a hobbyist, and a hardware hack. That being said, I also know my stuff.

And speakers are AC devices. Wiring them out of phase (Given that they're Alpine, and are being powered from an amplifier) won't stop them from working, but if they're out of phase from each other, there will definitely be some wierdness going on. Polarity for speakers is a relative thing, as I'm sure you know. All the (+) and (-) indicators on thsoe things mean is that if you wire DC to them with the positive being to the (+) and the negative being to the (-) terminal, the speaker cone will move outwards. If you wire it the other way around, the speaker cone will move inwards, towards the basket. I've wired many sets of speakers "out of phase" to correct phase related problems between drivers. Not every crossover network is an nicely aligned as a Linkwitz-Riley.

I'm sorry that you feel that I'm stepping on your toes. It is not my intention to do so.

And as to the "Y" adapters, that was me using them as an example install. I did not intend to use that as a suggestion for how to install, but, since you bring it up, I'll explain my reasoning for why I might do it that way.

Line level converters present a known impedance to the deck. This is typically 4 ohms, but in some cases may be 8, depending on the manufacturer. Most sold for car applications will be 4 ohm. The stock deck is expecting a 4 ohm load, which works nicely with standard car audio speakers (4 ohm) or the line level converter. Similarly, the speaker level inputs on the amplifier will present a 4 ohm load. If you are powering a 4 channel amplifier, the best solution is the line level converters, and the "Y" adapter, because the alternative is to wire the speaker level inputs to two channels each in parallel which would presnet a 2 ohm load to the deck. Since the factory deck is not rated to be stable to a 2 ohm load, this could be a bad thing. The Y adapter and the line level converter is therefore a relatively clean solution to power a 4 channel amp from 2 speaker leads. In any event, I was intending to provide a format that the wiring and setup of the system could be explained that would give everyone trying to help something that might help locate the source of the problem.

Again, sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

With each picture... I have a statement... could it just be that its grounding out somewhere? cuz whenever it touches metal, it shorts out, or when I screw the speaker back in, the screws make a spark sound, and the speaker, goes out. smile.gif

 

Okay...

Is the speaker wire getting pinched between the speaker basket and the car? Amplifiers should not have speaker leads connected to ground, pretty much ever...

Connecting to the tweeter leads isn't a very good idea. There is a passive crossover after the speaker leads that should just allow high frequecies to go to the tweeter, and low to the large cone. Sometimes there is just a capacitor at the tweeter, though. That would be okay, as long as there is no low pass crossover at the large cone. I'd play it safe, though.

For short circuits: Check that the wire is not getting pinched when you bolt in the speaker. Otherwise check for anything that might contact the leads when the speaker is in it's enclosure area. Try just wrapping the leads and contact area with vinyl electricians tape.

Good luck.

 

(could it just be that its grounding out somewhere? cuz whenever it touches metal, it shorts out, or when I screw the speaker back in, the screws make a spark sound, and the speaker, goes out.)


on that note
does this happen on the stock speakers as well? does it happen on both sides?

if the alpines work if not touching car metal, then somehow your voice coil is shorting out the basket. if this is the case and ya really want to use the speakers, use rubber/plastic between car metal and speaker, and use plastic screws/clipsto fasten it into place. just a thought

if the alpines still work when touching metal, then check for clearance where the wires connect to the speaker. maybe when you tighten the screws ya push the speaker just enough to short the leads. this would only be a worry if the alpines are deeper than the stocks.

hope this helps but it seems inda confusing.