There may be a few screws here and there but I believe most of the panels pop off. The rear speakers covers pop off without taking the whole panel off which will make it easier to change the speakers.

As for the rest of the panels I didn't get to take mine off yet so I'm not sure how they go on and off.

 

i've been looking around online at speakers and whatnot, but all the numbers and crap that is associated with amps and speakers is just confusing the hell out of me. can anyone suggest a good set of 6.5's and 6x9's to go with this amp? i've been to a couple of local audio shops and they have shown me some options, but of course they want me to spend as much money as possible. i'm looking for some speakers that will sound good when amplified, but won't cost me an extraordinary amount of money. i'm looking to keep the price at/under $100 per set. thanks guys.

kenwood KAC-646X amp. specs:
Multi-Channel Power Amplifier
GENERAL FEATURES
- 4, 3, or 2 Channels of Amplification
- Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 70 Watts x 2
- Maximum Output Power (Bridged): 140 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 35 Watts x 4
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 25 Watts x 4
AUDIO FEATURES
- Ground Isolation Circuit
- Input Selector: AB/A (Independent)
- Quiet Turn-On
- RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated
- RCA Line Outputs: Gold-Plated
- Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
- Speaker Connectors: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Speaker Level Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Speaker Relay Protection
- Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation
POWER SUPPLY FEATURES
- 2-Ohm Stable
- Copper EI Core Transformer
- Large Toroidal Noise Suppression Filter
- Power Indicator
- Power Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
- Current Consumption (Maximum): 22A
- Operating Voltage: 14.4V (11V - 16 V allowable)
AUDIO SPECIFICATIONS
- Damping Factor: >100
- Frequency Response: 10Hz - 45kHz (+0dB, -1dB )
- High-Pass Filter Frequency: Off/150Hz, 12dB per Octave
- Input Impedance: 10kOhms
- Input Sensitivity: 0.2V - 4V
- Low-Pass Filter Frequency: Off/80Hz, 12dB per Octave
- Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V: 70 Watts x 2 (less than 0.8% THD, 1kHz)
- Maximum Output Power: 140 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V: 35 Watts x 4 (less than 0.8% THD, 1kHz)
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V: 25 Watts x 4 (less than 0.08% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz

 

Heres a few nice sets there are more on the site but I was looking at the under 100.00:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=263-934
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=263-930
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=267-148

Just to give you some ideas.

 

thanks man. i don't know how soon i'll be able to get my new speakers since my wife and i will most likely be buying a house in the near future, but it's nice to know what's available.

 

so i finally got around to hooking up and testing the cd changer that my mother in law sent me for christmas. to my dismay the damn thing doesn't work. it's getting power but it won't eject the case that holds the discs. so i took out the kenwood deck and put my sony deck back in this afternoon. i got everything re-wired and the connections are all good, but the deck isn't getting any power at all. i went through all the connections and they're all tight. the connector into the back of the deck is all the way in as well. i just can't figure out why it's not turning on.

 

This might be a stupid question but, did you check all of the fuses?

On the stereo itself there should either be a fuse in a plastic tube on the power wires or newer models have small fuses right on the back of them.

Then of corse the cars fuse for the radio.

Another thing is if your ground in the stereo harness is bad. Try grounding the stereo to a different point and see if that works.

If the fuses are good and ground is fine either the power wire is bad or the unit itself is.

 

ya know, i checked the fuse on the deck but i forgot the one down in the fuse block. i'll have to check that one in the morning. the deck was just fine when i took it out about a month ago. thanks for the common sense question.

well, i got bored and went down to look at the fuse block to see if one of those fuses had blown; they were all good. this has completely boggled my mind because i can't see how the deck would just go bad.

 

Attachment 402

 

took the deck up to the audio shop and had them bench test it. they said that it's dead; might be a bad wire plug in the back, but dead nonetheless.

 

what happened to the kenwood? the stereo no good?