baseballstud85

this is going to be long. here is my current system:

sony xplod deck CDX-FW700. here are some specs: built in amp RMS power, 4x23.3 watts RMS; built in amp power, 4x52 watts.

ma audio amp M689i. specs:
Power output: 200 watts RMS x 2 (4 ohm load), 400 watts RMS x 2 (2 ohm load), 800 watts max x 1 (bridged mono, 4 ohm load), Frequency response: 20 Hz-20 kHz, THD: Less than 0.05%, Signal to noise ratio: Greater than 90 dB, Thermal, short, and overload protection circuitry, Selectable bass boost @ 50 Hz (0dB, 6dB, 12dB), Selectable low pass/high pass filters, Full Mosfet circuitry, 2 ohm stereo stable

ma audio subs MBD10. specs:
800 Watts Max Power Strobe Lit Name Plate Gold Plated Terminals High Density MDF Construction 4 Ohm Impedance Dimensions: 12.5" H x 25" W x 12.5" D.

now for the "new" stuff.
kenwood KDC-4016. specs:
Changer control random play: disc, magazine, Changer control: 2, or 1 + aux (with KCA-S210A or compatible changer), Digital filter: 8-times oversampling, Front and rear preouts, Front/rear fader LCD display: multi-color, with white LED backlight, Full bandwidth power (less than 1% THD): 22 Watts x 4, Full-function remote: grip-type, Kenwood-Designed Superior Disc Transport, Maximum output power: 45 watts x 4, Removable faceplate with carrying case

kenwood KAC-646X amp. specs:
Multi-Channel Power Amplifier
GENERAL FEATURES
- 4, 3, or 2 Channels of Amplification
- Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 70 Watts x 2
- Maximum Output Power (Bridged): 140 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 35 Watts x 4
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 25 Watts x 4
AUDIO FEATURES
- Ground Isolation Circuit
- Input Selector: AB/A (Independent)
- Quiet Turn-On
- RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated
- RCA Line Outputs: Gold-Plated
- Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
- Speaker Connectors: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Speaker Level Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Speaker Relay Protection
- Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation
POWER SUPPLY FEATURES
- 2-Ohm Stable
- Copper EI Core Transformer
- Large Toroidal Noise Suppression Filter
- Power Indicator
- Power Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type
- Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
- Current Consumption (Maximum): 22A
- Operating Voltage: 14.4V (11V - 16 V allowable)
AUDIO SPECIFICATIONS
- Damping Factor: >100
- Frequency Response: 10Hz - 45kHz (+0dB, -1dB )
- High-Pass Filter Frequency: Off/150Hz, 12dB per Octave
- Input Impedance: 10kOhms
- Input Sensitivity: 0.2V - 4V
- Low-Pass Filter Frequency: Off/80Hz, 12dB per Octave
- Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V: 70 Watts x 2 (less than 0.8% THD, 1kHz)
- Maximum Output Power: 140 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V: 35 Watts x 4 (less than 0.8% THD, 1kHz)
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V: 25 Watts x 4 (less than 0.08% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz

the kenwood amp would be used for when i get new 6x9's and 6.5's.
there is also a 6 cd changer that goes with the kenwood system that cannot be used with the sony deck.

now what i'd like is some input as to whether i should keep the sony deck and just put the kenwood amp in with the new speakers, or put the kenwood deck, amp, and cd changer all together in. also, the subs and amp will be staying with either set up.

Tib001

I would definitely go with the Kenwood it is so much better than the sony.

Nice set up you should be alot happier with the kenwood stuff.

radu_rd2

The deck already puts out 20-25w x 4 @ 4 ohm (RMS). Why bother with an amp which can only put 25w x 4 @ 4 ohm? Why not go for one with at least 50 or 75w x 4 @ 4 ohm ?

If you get the Audiobahn speakers for example, the front ones are 2x100W and the back ones are 2x200W (all RMS). It would be a pity to go through the trouble of buying and installing an amp only to have 25W on each one..

Will the SQ improve a lot through the amp even if the power is not much bigger?

optimoprime

^^yes it will. if the kenwood puts out clearer signals then it will be louder also at the same volume. if i were him i would bridge the front/rear stage and have it all at 2 ohms for some serious sound with great SQ

radu_rd2

You'd lose the ability to control front/right balance though right? And you'll only gain about 10w per speaker (70/2 = 35w instead of 25w) - still a lot lower than the 100-200W the speakers might have.

DTN

There's no point in bridging the front and rear stages of a 4 channel amplifier. All that will do is put your whole stereo into mono mode.
That's like having 2 bottles of different flavored water, dumping them into a pitcher, then back into the bottles. It's pointless and you end up with a bland mix of 2 flavors of water instead of 2 different types.

You gain absoloutely nothing by bridging for 2 speakers.

Run a 4 channel amp just like it says in the wiring diagrams. Bridging is for maximum power to 2 speakers, not 4.

baseballstud85

the reason i'm asking is because my mother-in-law sent me all of those kenwood items from one of her old cars that she doesn't have anymore (christmas present). i'm not familiar with audio equiptment at all. i just searched online for the specs of the stuff. all the numbers and stuff are confusing the hell out of me.

on another note, i know that my rear driver's 6x9 is blown right now. so i figure sometime in the future i'll replace all the speakers. what would ya'll suggest for 6x9's and 6.5's? and would the kenwood amp make those new speakers sound better?

DTN

^^ Free is the best price for any mod. If it's a tried and true system, go ahead and put it in. You can't argue with free stuff.

baseballstud85

i never argue with free lol. problem is, i'll either have to find one of my buddies to help me or take it to a shop to get the amp put in. any suggestions on speaker selection?

UrS0NvS

seperates with independent crossovers are always better than a 2-way or 3-way speaker just because you can tweak them seperately. but for free? shiiii, you don't gripe about free bud, install them bishes.