New Audio Maybe
^^ his only has 4 out front and rear:
kenwood KDC-4016. specs:
Changer control random play: disc, magazine, Changer control: 2, or 1 + aux (with KCA-S210A or compatible changer), Digital filter: 8-times oversampling, Front and rear preouts, Front/rear fader LCD display: multi-color, with white LED backlight, Full bandwidth power (less than 1% THD): 22 Watts x 4, Full-function remote: grip-type, Kenwood-Designed Superior Disc Transport, Maximum output power: 45 watts x 4, Removable faceplate with carrying case.
So he can use the front out for the new stuff that he needs to split for the 4 channels and the rear out for the sub amp.
If they are hooked up and are the standard colors they should be like this:
grey, white, green, and purple are the speaker out (black stripe negitive)
red is switched power
yellow is constant power
black is ground.
blue is power antenna or remote turn on for the amps.
That is from memory so I'm not sure about all of the wires but they are the main ones you need to hook up if there are more they are for optional connections depending on your stereo.
I found this on the net I would imagine they are correct but I never been to the site before so use at your own risk lol.
2000 Hyundai Tiburon Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green/White
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Green/Black
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Yellow
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Black
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
kenwood KDC-4016. specs:
Changer control random play: disc, magazine, Changer control: 2, or 1 + aux (with KCA-S210A or compatible changer), Digital filter: 8-times oversampling, Front and rear preouts, Front/rear fader LCD display: multi-color, with white LED backlight, Full bandwidth power (less than 1% THD): 22 Watts x 4, Full-function remote: grip-type, Kenwood-Designed Superior Disc Transport, Maximum output power: 45 watts x 4, Removable faceplate with carrying case.
So he can use the front out for the new stuff that he needs to split for the 4 channels and the rear out for the sub amp.
If they are hooked up and are the standard colors they should be like this:
grey, white, green, and purple are the speaker out (black stripe negitive)
red is switched power
yellow is constant power
black is ground.
blue is power antenna or remote turn on for the amps.
That is from memory so I'm not sure about all of the wires but they are the main ones you need to hook up if there are more they are for optional connections depending on your stereo.
I found this on the net I would imagine they are correct but I never been to the site before so use at your own risk lol.
2000 Hyundai Tiburon Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green/White
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Green/Black
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Yellow
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Black
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
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From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
i found that one too. but i also looked at the wiring from one of those plugs from ebay. i couldn't find anything else to verify the colors from your post but i found a couple of other sites that had the same wire colors as the one from ebay. i'm going to get a buddy of mine and maybe tommorrow start putting wires together. thanks for all your help. keep it coming if you have any valuable knowledge. i'm very new to audio set up.
Yeah I can't really say if they are the right colors or not. I used one of those harnesses so I didn't pay much attention to the wires when I put my stereo in. Once you get to check it out and see if the wires are the same colors let me know. If not then I don't know what to tell you.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
i finally got a chance to look at the wiring again before i put the kenwood deck in. it appears as though the connector from the sony deck had the same colors as the kenwood that i just put in. so all i had to do was cut off the plug and splice the kenwood wires with the other ones. i hooked the battery back up to see if everything worked right and it did.
since this is about audio and i'll be getting new speakers and running them off an amp, i'll need to take out the interior panels to run my speaker wires to the amp in the hatch area. i haven't gotten a chance to look at what would be involved in removing those panels. i searched and looked through about 15 pages of threads but couldn't find anything relating to taking the panels out. since my tib is on base and that's about 30 minutes away i can't go out and look at it right now. tommorrow at lunch i ought to be able to look at it. if anyone has any information about taking out the panels i'd like to hear it, just so i have an idea before i go look at it myself.
since this is about audio and i'll be getting new speakers and running them off an amp, i'll need to take out the interior panels to run my speaker wires to the amp in the hatch area. i haven't gotten a chance to look at what would be involved in removing those panels. i searched and looked through about 15 pages of threads but couldn't find anything relating to taking the panels out. since my tib is on base and that's about 30 minutes away i can't go out and look at it right now. tommorrow at lunch i ought to be able to look at it. if anyone has any information about taking out the panels i'd like to hear it, just so i have an idea before i go look at it myself.
Glad to hear the wires worked out for you. How do you like the stereo compared to before?
Where do you plan on mounting the amp on the back of the rear seat right? I didn't take any of the panels off yet on my car so I can't say exactly where to run the wires but i'm sure alot of people on here have done it.
Where do you plan on mounting the amp on the back of the rear seat right? I didn't take any of the panels off yet on my car so I can't say exactly where to run the wires but i'm sure alot of people on here have done it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
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From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
i only had it on for a little while because i had to get back to work (installed it on my lunch break). yes, i'll be mounting the other amp on the passenger rear seat across from the current amp. since i'll be pulling more power from the battery, i'll probably need a bigger power cable correct? how will i split the power between the two amps in the hatch area?
What size wire is in there now?
I would recommend at least 4 gauge 2 gauge at the most and get 2 distribution blocks 1 for power and 1 for ground.
The power block should have fuses for protection.
You can find tons of them on ebay and I can recommend www.partsexpress.com they have good prices and quality.
Whatever size wire you use keep your rca cables as far from the power cable as you can so it doesn't cause interference.
Oh and if you are running new power wire you need a fuse under the hood if you don't have one already no more than 18 inches from the battery.
I would recommend at least 4 gauge 2 gauge at the most and get 2 distribution blocks 1 for power and 1 for ground.
The power block should have fuses for protection.
You can find tons of them on ebay and I can recommend www.partsexpress.com they have good prices and quality.
Whatever size wire you use keep your rca cables as far from the power cable as you can so it doesn't cause interference.
Oh and if you are running new power wire you need a fuse under the hood if you don't have one already no more than 18 inches from the battery.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
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From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
there is already a fuse on the current power wire, but since i'll be getting a new wire of course i'd be putting a fuse in that wire as well. i'm not sure what size is in there now. i didn't really pay attention to the products they used when they installed the amp/subs. i think the current wire is about 3/8" thick maybe a little smaller.
3/8" sounds like 8 gauge. 4 gauge is at least 1/2" to 5/8" probably.
You probably will need bigger wire for the 2 amps.
Any decent shop should know what you need and be more than happy to recommend someting.
If they are any good you should be able to talk to them about it without them trying to get you to buy anything.
You probably will need bigger wire for the 2 amps.
Any decent shop should know what you need and be more than happy to recommend someting.
If they are any good you should be able to talk to them about it without them trying to get you to buy anything.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
i took a look at the panels today. i couldn't see any visible bolts or screws holding them on, it looks like they just pop/slide in somehow. does anyone know if there are screws under the rear seat maybe? or is there any way to run the rear speaker wires without taking the panels off?



