New Audio Maybe
Seperates are always better fing02.gif
Imo when you get your 6x9s don't go for any 3 or 4 way stick with a good 2 way design.
Rockford fosgate, kenwood, JL audio, Pheonix gold, and MA Audio all make good speakers both seperates and 6x9s.
I don't really know your budget so I can't recommend a specific model.
While you are replacing the speakers I would also recommend some sound dampening like dynamat or similar around them.
Since you already have a system don't let the shop over charge when its not that much work or parts to add a second amp. You should really be able to do it easily. If you think its too much money for the work it probably is. I don't think it should be over 100.00 for labor if not less but that is going by what they do around here.
Without knowing how your existing system is installed I can't really give much more ideas.
Imo when you get your 6x9s don't go for any 3 or 4 way stick with a good 2 way design.
Rockford fosgate, kenwood, JL audio, Pheonix gold, and MA Audio all make good speakers both seperates and 6x9s.
I don't really know your budget so I can't recommend a specific model.
While you are replacing the speakers I would also recommend some sound dampening like dynamat or similar around them.
Since you already have a system don't let the shop over charge when its not that much work or parts to add a second amp. You should really be able to do it easily. If you think its too much money for the work it probably is. I don't think it should be over 100.00 for labor if not less but that is going by what they do around here.
Without knowing how your existing system is installed I can't really give much more ideas.
QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Jan 6 2008, 03:20 PM)
There's no point in bridging the front and rear stages of a 4 channel amplifier. All that will do is put your whole stereo into mono mode.
That's like having 2 bottles of different flavored water, dumping them into a pitcher, then back into the bottles. It's pointless and you end up with a bland mix of 2 flavors of water instead of 2 different types.
You gain absoloutely nothing by bridging for 2 speakers.
Run a 4 channel amp just like it says in the wiring diagrams. Bridging is for maximum power to 2 speakers, not 4.
That's like having 2 bottles of different flavored water, dumping them into a pitcher, then back into the bottles. It's pointless and you end up with a bland mix of 2 flavors of water instead of 2 different types.
You gain absoloutely nothing by bridging for 2 speakers.
Run a 4 channel amp just like it says in the wiring diagrams. Bridging is for maximum power to 2 speakers, not 4.
no no no bridge the front AND bridge the rear. i'm not saying put them all together, you guys are weird
and if you have multiple speakers on your front stage ie 6.5's and tweeters you would gain power to all by bridging them.
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From: Tacoma, WA
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited
the ma audio amp was professionally installed. the drilled a hole in the fire wall slightly above and to the left of the driver's floorboard. then they ran all the wires down the driver's side rocker into the rear seat. the amp is mounted on the back of the rear driver's seat with the wires running through the seat. i'd like to mount the kenwood amp similarly on the passenger rear seat.
on a side note...if i am going to be running the mids off an amp, i wouldn't need to connect all of those speaker wires that connect to the back of the head unit because they'll run from the amp with RCA cables going from the head unit to the amp, correct? if that's the case, i would have to take off the interior panelling in order to run the speaker wires to the amp, right?
also, my battery and alternator will be able to carry all of this correct?
on a side note...if i am going to be running the mids off an amp, i wouldn't need to connect all of those speaker wires that connect to the back of the head unit because they'll run from the amp with RCA cables going from the head unit to the amp, correct? if that's the case, i would have to take off the interior panelling in order to run the speaker wires to the amp, right?
also, my battery and alternator will be able to carry all of this correct?
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Your alternator should be able to handle less then 750W. You will need a capacitor for anything above 1/2 that amount. You will start running on battery after that amount. Keep in mind you wont be using that amount of power all the time, only when its turned up. Any higher use then your alternator can put out means you're running on batteries and you will have to replace your battery more often.
^^A cap is probably a good idea no matter what system you have in there.
You are correct you will only need the rca cables from your stereo to your amp. Although you may need rca Y cables to split the signal because the 4 channel amp will have 4 rca inputs and you will only have 2 coming from the stereo.
As far as the wires from the amp to the speakers you may need to take off the interior panels if you can't get the wires through somehow.
When you get to the doors though you may have to be creative to get the new wires to the speaker because the wires running to the door are sealed up pretty good there is a plug on the car side of things that makes it really hard to get through the rubber tube going to the door.
I didn't run any wires through there yet but I think I will leave it alone and make new holes in the car and door to run my wires for speakers and lights. I want to try to find one of those rubber tube things from another car to run my new wires in so it looks like factory.
You might not want to go through all of that but thats how I would do it to my car.
You can always find the factory speaker wires that go through the plug to the door and cut them on the inside and splice the new ones from the amp but its up to you if you dont care about cutting the factory wires.
Oh and I wouldn't bridge anything you have a 4 channel amp and 4 speakers one channel to each. The amp is alot stronger than your stereo is (a 25 watt stereo is only really about 10-12 watts constant and only 25 at the absolute maximum)
Any new speakers you want to get should be pretty efficient and not need tons of power to sound good. So the kenwood amp would be fine.
Sorry for the long post but I like to be clear on my explanation.
You are correct you will only need the rca cables from your stereo to your amp. Although you may need rca Y cables to split the signal because the 4 channel amp will have 4 rca inputs and you will only have 2 coming from the stereo.
As far as the wires from the amp to the speakers you may need to take off the interior panels if you can't get the wires through somehow.
When you get to the doors though you may have to be creative to get the new wires to the speaker because the wires running to the door are sealed up pretty good there is a plug on the car side of things that makes it really hard to get through the rubber tube going to the door.
I didn't run any wires through there yet but I think I will leave it alone and make new holes in the car and door to run my wires for speakers and lights. I want to try to find one of those rubber tube things from another car to run my new wires in so it looks like factory.
You might not want to go through all of that but thats how I would do it to my car.
You can always find the factory speaker wires that go through the plug to the door and cut them on the inside and splice the new ones from the amp but its up to you if you dont care about cutting the factory wires.
Oh and I wouldn't bridge anything you have a 4 channel amp and 4 speakers one channel to each. The amp is alot stronger than your stereo is (a 25 watt stereo is only really about 10-12 watts constant and only 25 at the absolute maximum)
Any new speakers you want to get should be pretty efficient and not need tons of power to sound good. So the kenwood amp would be fine.
Sorry for the long post but I like to be clear on my explanation.
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don't worry about a post being long, as long as it pertains to the thread ya know. i haven't really looked at the "tubes" that connect the doors to the rest of the car, but wouldn't you be able to use some sort of string or something to pull the new wires through that tube and into the car body? i think i might just take it to a shop once i get around to replacing the 6x9's and 6.5's, that might be a little more work than i want to put into it. for right now, i am just going to put the kenwood deck in along with the cd changer. i have one small problem though. while i was stationed in korea i left my car with a friend of mine so it would get driven a little while i was gone. either he, or the people who put the aiwa in it (the one it had when i got the car), just cut the hyundai connector and just spliced the wires into the new head unit's connector. right now my sony head unit is still hooked up, but i'd like to get the kenwood in there soon. does anyone have a diagram of the stock radio wiring or something that explains which colors go to what?
The way it looked when I checked the plug it was right in that rubber tube and was very tight I'm not sure you could get something through it to pull the wire but I didn't try it yet. It is sealed up pretty good.
There are 2 parts to the plug one is mounted in the metal on the car body the other half of the plug is in the rubber boot/tube I don't know about the side that connects to the door if there is another plug or the wires run right through.
If you look around ebay and some sites they have reverse harnesses they replace the factory plug if the wires are cut.
This is for hyundai but i'm not 100% sure its for the tib. It looks right but it also says for 1990 to 2002.-->Harness
There are 2 parts to the plug one is mounted in the metal on the car body the other half of the plug is in the rubber boot/tube I don't know about the side that connects to the door if there is another plug or the wires run right through.
If you look around ebay and some sites they have reverse harnesses they replace the factory plug if the wires are cut.
This is for hyundai but i'm not 100% sure its for the tib. It looks right but it also says for 1990 to 2002.-->Harness
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the problem i come to now, if i use that adapter, then i have to get another adapter to plug from there into the kenwood deck. the kenwood deck that i have, the person that had it before labeled all of the wires that go into the deck (in the kenwood plug). now all i need to find is which wires are which in the tiburon stereo wire harness. if i can find that information, all i have to do is resplice the wires.
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QUOTE (Tib001 @ Jan 7 2008, 11:22 PM)
You are correct you will only need the rca cables from your stereo to your amp. Although you may need rca Y cables to split the signal because the 4 channel amp will have 4 rca inputs and you will only have 2 coming from the stereo.
My Jensen VM9021TS has about 20 RCAs on the back side. 6 of which are meant for 5.1 surround sound.
Just thought I'd throw that out there. I don't know if his stereo is equipped for 5.1 or not.
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the new deck has 2 rca outputs. Front R/L and Rear R/L. so i guess that makes 4 rca outputs, oh well. i went to an audio shop this afternoon just to make sure i'd be able to run both amps from this deck. the guy said to plug the sub's amp into the rear output and the mid's amp into the front output. is this correct? also, i think i found a diagram of the stock stereo wire harness. does this look right maybe? http://www.the12volt.com/request/request2.asp


