Everything's still good man. Just waiting for paypal.

 

Do you think I could fit one 12'' tube per footwell (Under the dash)? Or do you think that two 4'' tubes would work out better.

 

12" would be fine

 

Cool. I just went and measured and it's really close and I might have to work something out with double sided tape to mount them but it should work. I'm also wondering about switches. I am planning on buying some from oznium (The rocker switch with a blue LED in it. Rocker Switch) But I have no idea how to wire that up and I have no idea how the transformers work or if I need anything else. Liek I've heard you guys say somthing about an inline fuse or somthing like that. I don't know what i'm talking about but I'm just wondering what all i'm going to need.

Remember I'm planning on having the under dash cathodes wired to the same switch as the door pocket cathodes, possibly under seat neons and I'm not sure if I should wire up vent halos to it as well. Anyone that has vent halos and under dash and/or under seat lighting, have yo uever wanted just the vent halo's on? I'm just wondering if having Under dash, under seat, in door pockets, and vent halo's all at the same time is too much? I have some other questions but i'm forgetting some right now. They will come to me once I finally get these in. Still waiting on funds to transfer into paypal. Thanks for the help so far though guy's.......I'm eventually going to do speaker grill LED's also so just figuring that into the switch wiring.

 

If I were to make a suggestion I would say consider using a black rocker switch instead of a blue light up one. Interior lighting is one of those thing you want to be invisible until you turn it on (especially if you get pulled over), and it ends up being a lot classier if the switch goes unnoticed when the lights are off.

 

^^I feel exactly the same. The LED stay's off until you turn the switch on (Almost positive I read that in the product description)...Yeah just checked. Led stay's off till switch is on.

 

Yes, the 12" tubes will work under the dash, seat, wherever else.
I'd recommend going to radio shack and getting some switches there. That way you can see exactly what they look like before getting them. I've mounted 3 inside the console under your arm rest (right of driver, by your elbow). They mount really well and are completely invisible.
For wiring the switch and cathodes (and most all power stuff in general, now that I've written it), you need a power wire (I suggest from the cigarette lighter [power outlet]) and a ground (also from the power outlet). Should be green and black. Green is power, black is ground. Identify the same thing on the transformer (the black box that comes with the cathodes) so you know which is power and which is ground. I believe the power on there is red, and ground is black. In general though, black is always ground, the other color is power. (That's for general power/ground setups, there's lots of things that will have more than two..) You can test which is which on a 9V battery. Once identified, connect the grounds together, then the power wires. Then turn on your car (acc. works) and they should light up. If not, switch the wires and they should work. If they still don't, you probably haven't connected something right then... I believe the cathodes will connect directly to the transformer via a tiny little plug. Just make sure you have it oriented properly (there are safeguards to keep you from doing it wrong) and push it in pretty firmly.
To wire a switch in there, run a wire from the positive wire (green) on the power outlet to one end or post on the switch. Then from the other end of the switch, go to the power wire on the transformer. You should then be in business. I'd recommend soldering any connections you do, but crimping should be fine too. Always make sure the power wire is fully insulated. If you have any bare area, either on a wire or on a connection, wrap it in electrical tape, just for safety.
You shouldn't need an additional fuse since there's one for the power outlet. However, if you blow that, your radio and other accessories won't work until you replace it. If you do blow it, carefully check all your connections and everything to make sure you got it right before replacing the fuse. Otherwise you'll just keep blowing it. The cathodes shouldn't require so much power that you need to upgrade the fuse either (I have dozens of LEDs and other things coming off there and I still haven't blown one).
I have my underseat lighting on one switch and the haloz, door pockets, door handle LED, (seems like I'm forgetting one...) on another switch. I usually have the haloz switch off at night just because it can get so bright. But I do like the setup, there's not too many switches, but I still have enough control over it. I only have LEDs in the rear speaker grills, and those are wired directly to my parking lights (from the tail lights). You can't see them from the front very well, so I don't mind that they're on most of the time.
If you do any other projects, check the DIY listing first, it has a bunch of worthwhile power and LED stuff in it. But of course, we're willing to help at any time too.

 

Thanks for the help man. Can't wait for these to come in. I'm still unsure about where the transformer goes and how I can wire it all the way from a door pocket to the cig lighter.

 

In my experience with LED switches, the ones which have a LED on one side of the switch are usually an on indicator. That is the type of switch that you want. I have one on my nitrous bottle heater. It can be hard to tell if the heater is on or the bottle is warm from the day when it is full. Indicator LEDs are great so I can do a quick check and make sure I'm not going to run down my battery over night. I rigged it in this way so that I can turn it on 1/2 hour before I turn on my car and use it. So that's what I think you want.

You'd probly like one which is styled for automotive use as well. So I'd recommend going to Pep-Boys. You can get one of their keep-it-clean products. Most of them illuminate only when turned on.


Green/white is power. black is ground. Green/black is dimmable ground. You can use either for ground.

In electronics, generally, green is ground. White is neutral. AC = black is hot, DC = black is ground. The reason the Tiburon uses green/white and green/black is because the system is on a floating ground, so the hot wire is not adjusted down, the ground is brought up to be more positive.

This could be a bad idea. For a illuminated switch you have power, load, and ground. if you put power on one side of the switch and ground on the other accidentally, you'll blow a fuse or worse.

Illuminated switches have a code on the side which tells you how to hook them up. Usually it's hot on one side, ground on the other and load in the middle.



I blew up my $25 dimmer. I was working late at night with little light and somehow the ends of my LEDs touched green/white wire to green/black wire. It should have blown the fuse. Instead it caused my dimmer to go up in smoke and me to follow step eleventeen from the car customization handbook- swear up a storm, punch a tire and be in a generally foul mood.



I wired mine to the dimmer, so if it gets annoying, I can dim them down with the rest of the dashboard. The ones in the door are on the same power supply as the door switches, so they don't dim, but they're not annoying at night. They're in peripheral vision.

The LEDs I have in my rear speakers are hooked to my amplifier. I have a switch and a power regulator box I built for them located directly behind the center console. I can hit a on/off push button and they turn off.

 

thanks, i was looking for a place that sale does fing02.gif