Firstly I want to thank TomOTEC who solved a big problem I had.

Namely the RD1's interior (seats) are f***ing horrible, they remind me of sack cloth.

Now having black racing seats in contrast to the grey back ones has been annoying the piss out of me, and I did consider getting the back seat upholstered but it cannot be used so I could not justify paying all that jist to keep the car looking sorta stock so my stereo doesnt become bait.

So Tom gave me the seat out of his RD2 and it looks awesome in there. In this pic it looks a bit over grey but thats the flash smile.gif It actually goes real well with my racing seats, a 100% improvement.





And some real cool pics of my latest and absolutely fantastic toy the fusion FX-45

I didnt realise that my amp was damaged and so couldnt get full use out of this, the amp has now been in for repair and is belting, so I have everything pumping now smile.gif

Blue (my fave)

Yuck green, not nice 02.gif


Repaired amp, again I love this thing smile.gif

 

sweet man, i'm glad to see you put it to good use. looks nice in there too

 

The MOSFETs are huge in that amp! Wow! I'm also guessing that amp has between 1/2 - 1F of capacitance between those two giant capacitors. Is that the one you had to modify to get more power out of?

BTW... I always use a gerber for electrical work too.

 

Yeah thats the amp that will do .25 ohms lol. Its tiny and can reach in excess of 900 WRMS if wired down that low lmao.gif

It is rated at 20 watts per channel, but, is *the* most under rated amplifier in history.

The problem turned out to be the input coiil. In the pic on the bottom left youll see a red thing, the live and ground wrap on that and bolt into the board.. One was loose and the amp rem wire had broken down to 2 strands 02.gif

Whilst I was there I redone all the outputs using 8awg power cable, as one of the 16awg wires I had in there sparked and burnt up. This is a very powerful amp with *alot* of clout.

Infact because it has PG's triple darlington stage you can literally run a whole friggin system off of it lmao.gif

The mod is to the left of the top capacitor and below the coil there.. It basically takes off any regulation and lets the amp continue to draw power to up it's output. Obviously you have to be careful of that because around 16.5 volts itll catch on fire lmao.gif

 

looks good smile.gif wanna repair my amp for me, its on the fritz, and not outputting any sound..

 

I know a man who is the best in the country, literally (ex PG engineer).

What amp is it? because it might not be worth repairing.

 

I also have an amp that stopped workin that's just lyin in my closet... Fuses are good, lights on it say everything is workin right, but it just wont push any power out... Im thinking maby its the outputs?

Its a KICKER KX 500.2.... It was an awesome amp when it was working. Im gonna try to repair to sell (or maby keep).... heres a LINK TO SPECS AND PIC Any thoughts?? srry kinda OT but I figured i'd pick Pandy's brain, lol

 

the amp is a 1500 RMS monoblock lanzar amp.. i think its just a connection thats loose, but im not sure.. i just know that this friggin thing used to be awesome, and something got loose and then it started acting up..

 

pandy: what does 3x Darlington pairs do? Usually darlington pairs are used for quick switch on and off times. Not desirable in car audio. They tend to always go to cut-off or saturation. Btw... I did the math, that amplifier is rated at 25W@ 8 ohms.

You all do know it is my job to repair and troubleshoot right?

 

Triple darlington is what they named the amps ability to run bridged and stereo at the same time smile.gif

Socks - lanzar amps are not worth repairing, cheaper to get another one smile.gif