installing power windows and locks
my sephia doesn't didn't come with power windows and doorlocks and i was thinking about going the aftermarket route. on the autoloc page they have some kits that look affordable. i was wondering if they are easy to install or should i get a pro to do it. or will the whole thing look cheap and crappy?
i've pretty good a following directions and can do simple stuff on a car like change fliuds and spark plugs.
sorry for the long post and thanks in advance
i've pretty good a following directions and can do simple stuff on a car like change fliuds and spark plugs.
sorry for the long post and thanks in advance
I'm in the process of installing the door locks myself right now. The actuators go in the door frame below the latch mechanism. You have to take the interior panels off and then CAREFULLY peel the water-wall back (it keeps rain and car-wash water out of the cabin). Aside for some cramped quarters, the lock actuator is an easy install.
The wiring, on the other hand, is a different story.
I don't know about Sephia, but on the Tiburon, we have an integrated harness in the kick-plate area, with a rubber grommet/boot that goes into the door. There is no room for additional wires. However, since manufacturers like to use similar parts wherever possible, I'm hoping that the door lock wiring is in there, just not used (then I just splice into it and it's done).
As far as windows go, though, mine came with them, so I can't help you there.
Good luck.
Tunez,
I found the right wires to cut into on the inside, but can't seem to locate the matching ones inside the door. Am I SOL? Or are they wadded up in there? You'd think Hyundai would use one wiring harness for all doors.
thanks,
ac
The wiring, on the other hand, is a different story.
I don't know about Sephia, but on the Tiburon, we have an integrated harness in the kick-plate area, with a rubber grommet/boot that goes into the door. There is no room for additional wires. However, since manufacturers like to use similar parts wherever possible, I'm hoping that the door lock wiring is in there, just not used (then I just splice into it and it's done).
As far as windows go, though, mine came with them, so I can't help you there.
Good luck.
Tunez,
I found the right wires to cut into on the inside, but can't seem to locate the matching ones inside the door. Am I SOL? Or are they wadded up in there? You'd think Hyundai would use one wiring harness for all doors.
thanks,
ac
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by Curtas:
I'm hoping that the door lock wiring is in there, just not used (then I just splice into it and it's done).
I'm hoping that the door lock wiring is in there, just not used (then I just splice into it and it's done).
Curtas-
Let me know if you want wiring diagrams or wiring color info. I have the full factory service manuals.
I've installed several aftermarket power door lock and power window setups, and I have yet to see an inexpensive aftermarket setup that will work even remotely with factory setups.
Most power lock setups (And for that matter power window setups) just use 2 relays to control the system.
Factory setups have timers built in for locks, and feedback circuity for windows. You can add these circuits to the aftermarket setup but you're starting to look at a lot of cash before you get far. The KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) applies if you want to keep the budget down.
As for the wiring being there, I would highly doubt it. The wiring harness won't be there, because that just adds weight and complexity to the car. The only way that it *might* happen is when the power stuff is a dealer installed option (Which power locks and windows haven't been for decades.)
Switch location is often also a hassle for aftermarket stuff. I can't say for your car specifically, but most of the time, the door panels are different for models with power windows, because there does not need to be any provision for window handles.
Good luck, though!
Most power lock setups (And for that matter power window setups) just use 2 relays to control the system.
Factory setups have timers built in for locks, and feedback circuity for windows. You can add these circuits to the aftermarket setup but you're starting to look at a lot of cash before you get far. The KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) applies if you want to keep the budget down.
As for the wiring being there, I would highly doubt it. The wiring harness won't be there, because that just adds weight and complexity to the car. The only way that it *might* happen is when the power stuff is a dealer installed option (Which power locks and windows haven't been for decades.)
Switch location is often also a hassle for aftermarket stuff. I can't say for your car specifically, but most of the time, the door panels are different for models with power windows, because there does not need to be any provision for window handles.
Good luck, though!
Random, hey could you hook me up with those diagrams. I have a Chilton with the wiring diagrams but they SUCK!! I could use the color ones if you have them. And one other thing, would these diagrams help with installing an alarm and siliniod system for the doors too? Thanks
Random, thanks for the offer. I found the hmaservice stuff about it, but as it turns out (just as Tunez and Dan warned me), the wiring is not there. I had to run the wires between the frame and interior panel into a plastic grommet in the door frame (towards the bottom, inside of the seal.
So the wires must slide in and out about 6 inches. They move pretty straight, but I know rubbing will be an issue. I'll keep an eye on them and eventually get a nice hard plastic boot for them for additional protection.
As far as control, this system is designed to only be run from the alarm brain. No internal switches or timers or anything like that. Alarm off- unlock doors. Alarm on - lock doors.
I'll upload some pictures and make a quick webpage today and post the link later. It was kind of a hassle (for the locks), but not mega-impossible. Then again, I installed the alarm myself, so I'm pretty comfortable with taking things apart and soldering.
a
[ July 13, 2001: Message edited by: Curtas ]
So the wires must slide in and out about 6 inches. They move pretty straight, but I know rubbing will be an issue. I'll keep an eye on them and eventually get a nice hard plastic boot for them for additional protection.
As far as control, this system is designed to only be run from the alarm brain. No internal switches or timers or anything like that. Alarm off- unlock doors. Alarm on - lock doors.
I'll upload some pictures and make a quick webpage today and post the link later. It was kind of a hassle (for the locks), but not mega-impossible. Then again, I installed the alarm myself, so I'm pretty comfortable with taking things apart and soldering.
a
[ July 13, 2001: Message edited by: Curtas ]
thanks for the help guys...i decided to proceed. i got a homie at the dealer and he can get me the 4 door panels and switches for 90/piece and i just have to buy the kits. so we'll see... rolleyes.gif



