I start the protection box for the cap tomorrow.. I dont want to risk endangering mine or anyone who rides with me's life so I am going to put it in a strongbox with a double walled lexan window.

I have seen caps go, and it's not a pretty sight.. So better to be safe and sorry (plus it'll look nice too smile.gif )

Pics soon smile.gif

 

^^









I made a flap for mine out of an inner-tube. You may be able to do something similar. I just took a small square piece, cut 2 lines in it, then folded it over the wires and pinned it down under the mounting brackets.



It's nice and neat, works very well and hides the wires extremely nicely.

 

I dont want mine exposed like that.

Because I have a very high powered system in both wattage and ampage and 2 unregulated amps able to draw tons of voltage I dont trust the cap.

I have seen caps less than an inch tall 'go off' and its not a pretty sight, they also end up leaking and the fumes can be deadly.

So I have basically built a container to hold it. I would smell the fumes but they would be alot less and give me time to pull over.. Plus I am going for a really neat clean install with everything set up in modular so it is easy to remove and upgrade.

The amps I think are going to stay, I might add a PG xenon 1200.1 one day for the subwoofer and then seperate the front and rear stages into the 2 smaller amps, but I will not be removing either of the amps I have now smile.gif

Here is the cap container. Basically 3/4 inch mdf, the inside is painted dark grey and the wires all feed into the top, I have left enough space on the opening window to see the SPL logo and the voltage readout, but this is a big cap so I have covered most of it over to offer the plex window the best strength smile.gif



Almost there...

 

Looks clean. Caps are designed to be drawn upon heavily. You've taken care of the only possible problem, the terminals. You won't have a problem. It's not a battery. That would be your only concern with a huge system.

you do have a fuse on the main power line at the box right? Cuz if the wire shorted at the baseboard en-route to the battery it could still cause problems... if you fused it, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

At the battery I have a scorpion circuit breaker to protect the battery.. On the amp display at the top is a fuse to protect the amps.

So yeah, this is all done properly.. I have been installing car audio for 13 years, *the* singlemost expensive part of the system (as it should be) was the wiring, fuses, circuit breaker and so on.

I havent skimped and it is all really cleanly done.

What you see coming out of the cap box right now will be heatshrunk once it is all connected to tidy it up smile.gif

 

^^ Not for me. I bought my wiring at a very good price, and installed it myself cost was a total of $50 + $20 fuse. The rest of my sterio is worth $1300 in parts, not including LEDs.

 

IIRC the wire for the 4awg was around $80. I run 2 amps atm but got the wiring for 3.

The distro blocks were about $15 each, the circuit breaker was about $50 and the fuse was around the $15.

Then I rewired the whole car from front to back with all new speaker wire (esoteric audio) and that was around the $100 mark. Then there are my RCA wires.

The light blue silicone ones are from the UK made by a company called Rogers. They make stuff for the BBC's studios.

Those were $200 a set, pure silver.

Then I have 2 sets of phoenix gold zeropoints that cost me around $40 used (they were around that each back in 94).

It all adds up... That's not accounting for the end connectors, gold plated battery terminals or anything else..

Oh progress report.

The system is in.

I broke a seat bracket though so the seat needs to be fixed. bloody thing 02.gif

Everything is in there, I just need to revisit it somewhen soon to tidy it up.

Oh, it's loud. My cap is reporting 14.9 volts.

Lovely laugh.gif

 

I still need to do a few things, namely build a cover for the cap wires and then build the EQ215 into the empty spot on the right in front of the sub.

 

Dude, you got jacked for the RCAs and the speaker wire... and RCAs really badly. You know silver is only used as a coating for most wires because it's complete losslessness can only be justified when you're talking about freqs in the GHZ. You cannot even see the difference across 40FT of wire in copper or silver when you're talking about KHZ frequencies, even with the most finely tuned oscilliscope.



You're not transmitting digital satellite signals across miles from a dish to a remote receiver, you've got a audio signal across a few feet. If you you can return those RCAs, do it. Copper is just as good, but it oxidizes. You can fix that by getting copper plated connectors because the urithane/silicone coverings on the wires will keep it new. Seriously, Save yourself $150. Your RCAs would be comparable to putting Ferarri tires on a Yugo.



I'd get that alternator checked. That's the highest voltage on a tib I've ever seen heard of or immagined.



You could always use a wire loom, it may be a bit more space conservative.



I want to see pix of that EQ215 mang.

 

yeah i wouldnt have spent that much on rca cables. they might sound a little bit better, but its in a car where you have additional noise that just makes it pointless.

pure silver is the best conducting metal but its only slightly more than copper, and silver can tarnish.

i myself bought a 0awg dual amp kit off ebay. contains all tsunami & voodoo equipment, which elemental designs sells so i knew could be trusted.

with it i got a "10 farad" tsunami capacitor. i dont know if its actually 10 farad, because i thought to ge tthe necessary surface area for something like that it would be gigantic, but whatever.

all for 200 shipped. more than enough cable to get 0 awg to the trunk, then split it into 4 to each of my amps.


its prolly not going to be the most clear sounding system(still need to get sub in there&currently having software issues with my carpc...no fuggin time to fix things.) but it will well exceed what i need.