^^exactally. and a incorrectly matched impedance will cause clipping or cut-off of the amplifier into the speaker making for eratic waveforms. Distortion will cause the speaker to vibrate in a manner which it was not designed.



It's always best to buy a set recommeded by a manufacturer. But, a speaker which is of the same ohmage and frequency response charactoristics will last alot less time at max rating then it will at 1/4th rating of watts.

 

im pretty sure you guys are right about the under powered cause when i came back a buddy on base looked at it and said the same thing. its starting to make sense but bare with me just a tad bit longer lol

alright.... the 6 1/2 say recommended rms power 35w and the rears recommended rms power is 20-40w

now in order to find a 4 channel amp that can run these good without blowing them or who knows what else... im using these amps on sounddomain.com as an example since its online and easy to get to

first the cheapest amp they have for about 40 bucks

Power Acoustik PS4-240
# Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 35W x 4
# THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.02%
# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: n/a
# Speaker Level Inputs: yes

now would this be a good amp to get for it? since as far as i can understand it puts out 35w on 4 channels?
or should you get more then the speakers are rated for...

and this one for example, abit close to the mid pack for 140 bucks

Pioneer GM-6200F
# Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 60W x 4
# THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <0.01 %
# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 150W x 2

so this one puts out 60w on all the 4 channels correct? would this be way to much for it or would this be good

besides this one last part i think i understand it lol

 

dude.... Have you learned NOTHING from this thread?!??!?!??!

Check the ohms on the speakers. Watts mean nothing except how much power is going through them.


Watts = "are you going to blow the speakers up or be able to hear them?"

the problems with distortion will be caused by improper impedance matching. the power acoustic looks to be the best amp for the job..... that is IF your speakers are 4 ohm.

 

your best bet with systems is to just replace everything and start new. and if u stay with all or at least mostly with same brand it SHOULD be loud like u want it to be after they break in.

 

^^ true. But I think maybe he may be going for a cheaper alternative. A cheap set of speakers will run $150-$200 for 2 mid range(rear), 2 woofers(door) and 2 tweeters(dash) in the RD2 tiburon. As long as he gets something that will work with the current configuration it should work well.



BTW... when you upgraded your current set, did you do anything about the tweeters in the dashboard? If you put a set of midrange in the front instead of just woofers, you may have degraded your sound performance by adding too many speakers.

 

ok i thought i got it... clearly... i hate car audio sad.gif

ok...

from the start then

these are my 6x9's

Pioneer TS-A1671R
3-Way Speaker
* Size: 6 1/2
* Sensitivity: 90 dB
* Frequency Response: 30-33,000 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 35W
* Peak Power Handling: 220W
* Impedance: 4 ohms

Pioneer TS-A6971R
3-Way Speaker
* Size: 6 x 9
* Sensitivity: 93 dB
* Frequency Response: 28-33,000 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 20-40W
* Peak Power Handling: 300W
* Impedance: 4 ohms

the impedance on both of those speakers are 4 ohms...

which means... any speakers i further put in the car should be 4 ohms impedance so i dont get improper impedance matching?

now the amp to power it.... that should be RMS Power @ 4 Ohms right....?

not sure if what im writing is right yet (pretty sure ill know soon enough once you guys reply lol) but i dont want to go to much over rms power of the speakers right?

so say if i had these 5 choices for an amp....

RMS Power @ 4 Ohms 110w x 4
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms 80w x 4
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms 50w x 4
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms 40w x 4
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms 35w x 4

and if im still completly wrong and with no evident hope in sight, what would be the best HU and amp for these speakers cause i simply just give up trying to figure it out if i still dont get it after this post sad.gif

 

ok. i'd go with the 35x4

Solder all connections and cover with heat shrink tubing not electrical tape. Get it at radio shack. You simply place it over a connection and melt it with a lighter to make a stronger, protected connection


Also, make sure to properly terminate the ends of wires going into the amplifier. Go to a local sterio shop and ask for fork terminals in the proper gauge of wire. Stock should work... ask for a 18-22AWG crimp on fork terminal. Dont forget to use Ring crimp terminals for the ground bolt.

You're posting pictures when you get done and i swear to god if your ground terminal is bare wire wrapped around a bolt, i'm comming to your house. Ask REDZMAN, Patreezy, TiburonMoo and a few other members... I'll do it.

Just think "professional job" when you're installing it. If you see wires, it's not right. You need to finish it, either cut slits or use wire looms from autozone.

A good place to mount the amp is on the back of the seat, you can cut SMALL slits in the fabric for the wires and you can put screws right through the sheet metal behind the fabric with a bit of pressure and a screw driver.