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Advice Needed On Wireless Radar Detectors.

Old Sep 30, 2008 | 08:21 AM
  #11  
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Yeah, I may have to do a corded one and figure out a way to run wiring to a hardwire adapter like I just did for my XM.

It's just after hours of wire cleaning like I did last night, I don't want to do it again, and I'm really getting tired of splicing into the wiring harness for power. It took me over 4 hours last night, hunched over my center console, to find a short, that wasn't even a short, just a wire splice on too small of a wire that didn't have a steady connection. With everything I've had in the car in the past, and what's in there now, I've got wiring troubles coming in the future, I know that for sure.

Anyways, enough blabbering, I guess my biggest issue now is I don't want a detector up near my headliner that I have to look up at, and I am not taking out my crash pad to try to send a wire around back. I guess I'll just pick one up, probably that Whistler 78 Pro as it's rated almost as good as the Valentine One, and a hardwire kit, and start looking for a power distribution block for my car. My current one is full, and used for my; interior lighting, and seems to have issues with keeping the smaller wires locked in.

Any advise for a interior distribution block?

BTW, my reasoning is because after reading reviews and hard data on the wireless ones, they all are rated very low, because of power cycling built in to save batteries.

Not just that, but it seems as if after many battery ones came out, they disappeared just as quick, because of the above issues, so now there are barely any, and the only one that is worth a damn is the Escort Solo 2, which is just too much for me to spend on a detector.

I just ordered that Whistler 78 Pro, the thing is very VERY highly rated, even better than the Escorts and Valentines at some places. Anyways, the thing COMES with a hardwire kit.

Amazing eh?

It'll be here in 2 days, let you guys know more about it then. Guess I can't put my dash back together yet, STILL.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:24 AM
  #12  
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I was trying to figure out what you were worried about and what your rational was for a cordless. It makes sence now.

The main problem people have with wiring is twisting connections together and taping, which comes looose later, E tape melts into the wires and another problem is pinching wires. Avoid those situations using crimps, solder, or solid wires and always zipties.

I'd really like to mount a indicator on the brim above the dash and have the sensor mounted on the windshield somewhere. It would be nice not to have another box in the car.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #13  
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Damn guys, it's ADVICE, RATIONALE, SENSE

A friend of mine has one mounted right near/under the rearview mirror, and it works out great (i don't think it's too high). Does the tibby have a nearby power-wire up there to tap into? There must be a +12V in the roof somewhere (for the interior light), I'm thinking of getting a detector too and trying this out.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:16 PM
  #14  
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QUOTE (RED ZMAN @ Sep 30 2008, 07:21 AM)
Anyways, enough blabbering, I guess my biggest issue now is I don't want a detector up near my headliner that I have to look up at, and I am not taking out my crash pad to try to send a wire around back. I guess I'll just pick one up, probably that Whistler 78 Pro as it's rated almost as good as the Valentine One, and a hardwire kit, and start looking for a power distribution block for my car. My current one is full, and used for my; interior lighting, and seems to have issues with keeping the smaller wires locked in.

Any advise for a interior distribution block?


Funny you mention it. I was just going to suggest a distribution block. I had two in my T/A, one fused for power and one non-fused for ground. I had an 8Ga. power wire with an inline fuse going to a fused distribution block, just like for amps. I had a non-fused block with an 8Ga. ground wire as well. Anytime I needed power for gauges, radar detector or anything else, I just had to plug into those. I had them stashed under my center console just cause it was easy to get to and there was lots of room. Stuff was all Monster Cable.


QUOTE (DTN @ Sep 30 2008, 08:24 AM)
I'd really like to mount a indicator on the brim above the dash and have the sensor mounted on the windshield somewhere. It would be nice not to have another box in the car.


Haven't seen it for Hyundai's, but there's a guy that disassembles Valentine One's and integrates them into the rearview mirror for 350Z's. When it's off, you don't even know it's there. When it's on, it shines through the mirror glass. Maybe someone with some time could try doing this with a Hyundai mirror.

EDIT:

http://www.piddles.net/V1-Install.htm

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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #15  
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Well, I don't want to put mine up high like that, but I suppose I could. And the wiring for the map lights does only come on when the car is running, if you select the right wire.

COULD work.

Any idea which wire I would use though guys and gals?

Also, I8aCobra, got any links to what you used for distribution? I might take some time this winter and redo everything if I can find a system I like.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 03:04 PM
  #16  
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^ Hmm my interior lights (is that the same as map light?) come on any time, regardless if the car is running or keys are in contact.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #17  
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I meant to have a question mark in there. I thought there was a wire up there, for the sunroof actually I guess it would be, that is only powered when the car is on.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #18  
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Yeah if you have a sunroof that should work. Personally, if I had one I would keep it turned off when I'm not on the highway, so I wouldn't mind either way.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 04:39 PM
  #19  
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Just check the connector with a meter. Should be easy to find.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 04:55 PM
  #20  
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So tear it all apart, cut the connector off, put it on the gas meter on the side of my house, and see what it does?

...

I suxors with electronics, took someone here walking me through step by step to check my power supply on my PC after it sat there for 5 months to confirm it was dead.
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