The AirRam is quite a bit heavier than the stock intake manifold. This is simply because of the size difference. As for removing the sound deadeners...... I had the trunk flooring out when I was installing my stereo and sirius. Had to go to the store to pick up some bolts. OMG I will never do that again without putting the floor back in. At one time I have a test pipe on the car and it was loud as all hell but this totally did not even compare. It made my freakin ears ring for about 30 minutes when I got home. Never again laugh.gif

 

C/F intake manifold would be very impressive, though...for F/I, you'll need to have it withstand the pressure. I'd personally use an aluminum honeycomb over the Nomex honeycomb....or just an epoxy resin with C/F. The Nomex honeycomb provides unparallelled stiffness (if you apply a torsional force to it), but it's strength can be compromised if poorly constructed. You could use kevlar as well.

I'm just thinking on a realistic scale, where weight reduction will make a much more significant difference on your car. Personally, I'd strip the car and add more welds to the chassis, to make it stronger, and then lay up the interior with C/F.

I almost forgot...windshield glass. Lexan is usually used in replacing the stock glass, but it scratches easily. Another possibility is finding something similar to Lexan, but the glass would be coated/produced with some sort of polycarbonate.

 

I wouldn't touch the windshield.. but the side and rear glass is fair game.
As for a C/F hood not being lighter if it is not true c/f... I think even the c/f glassfibre hoods are lighter than stock

 

My RD2 hood seems to weigh about 40lbs, but my dad's Evo's hood weighs about 5lbs, its a thin piece of metal problably alluinmum.

 

Well, I don't agree with the hood info that said they don't make a difference.

My stock hood weighs something like 45 pounds.

My REDZ MAKO FG hood weighs about 20.