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Should I remove my engine?

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Old 10-14-2010, 11:01 PM
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Default Should I remove my engine?

I've been debating whether to do this or not, for some time now. I'd like to repaint my engine bay, clean my engine, remove rust from engine, and engine bay. I also have maintenance items and mods that I need to do on my engine (or around the engine):

- timing belt/tensioner/water pump
- replace headers (having them coated now)
- install OBX lightweight ps pulley
- install OBX underdrive crank pulley
- install NRG engine damper
- replace 1 motor mount
- replace clutch, and pressure plate
- LSD (not sure yet)
- replace TB and IM
- install my zefiro hood
- replace both axles

Is it worth it? What do you guys think? My engine only has about 80k miles.
Old 10-15-2010, 01:48 AM
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I would say that is a good idea, could probably get it done in a weekend if you dont have plans!

Nothing there is to hard to do, but if your doing the clutch and timing belt and water pump i would do it when it is out, it is much much easier! Then drop the tranny off of the Block and do the clutch and put it in as one piece it is easier that way!
Old 10-15-2010, 06:33 AM
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I agree. With that amount of work, you might as well be able to access it easier. This will give you an excuse to flush your coolant, change your oil and change your transmission fluid as well. While you've got everything off, you might as well replace your cluch hydraulics with dot 4 and brakes with dot 3. I wish I had a weekend and an excuse to tear the enging out of my car. Sounds like fun.
Old 10-15-2010, 08:10 AM
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Thanks for the input, guys! I'm getting very excited!! You guys are convincing me to just do it.

DTN, that's the sort of input I'm looking for: additional things I can do while I got the engine out. Keep ideas flowing for what I can do with the engine out. I figure this is a one-time thing for my baby wink.gif
Old 10-15-2010, 08:55 AM
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^ Those are good ones Dtn, I actually cant think of anything else, just make sure if you do tranny fluid to drain it while it is out, off the block is better cause you can roll it on its back and drain it completely, just remember that you cant fill it with the axles out so you will have to fill it with the motor in.. lol I did that once and i made a mess and wasted 10 dollars worth of Oil lol!

Other things you can look at is like Any kind of leak, Vacuum hoses for dry rot, just do a good engine bay inspection, just little things like that!
Old 10-15-2010, 09:23 AM
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^^ Good stuff.
Old 12-29-2010, 11:23 PM
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Alright boys!! I'm following through with my promise! Yeap, I'm tearing my engine apart. It's my first time removing an engine, and I've just started. Here are my plans, in addition to what I've mentioned on my 1st post, after some research and thought:



- beta 2 tranny

- beta 2 head + gasket (on my beta 1 block)

- 3 angle valve grind, journals micro polished

- 0.04mm head shave

- check bores for taper - bore and hone, if so

- 1.8 pistons

- valeo clutch + pp

- XTD 35mm flywheel

- Phantom Grip LSD

- replace steering rack (just noticed mine's leaking)



(Turboron, thanks for some ideas on the SB, the other day)



Couple questions for you guys:



1. what would you recommend I shave the head? I'm thinking 0.04mm, but I've seen others going as much as 1mm. I'm looking for a *safe* value, while showing some results by raising compression a bit.



2. I think I read somewhere that it's ok to put the 1.8 pistons on the beta2, but I really need to confirm. I don't wanna screw that up. I'm concerned about valve clearance, and I want to know if doing this would have equivalent gains/results as doing it on the beta1.



Your thoughts?



Also, yesterday, before I finally disabled the engine, I did a compression test. I'm getting 150, 160, 170, 160 (cyl 1, ... 4). I did a wet test on cyl 1, which was showing 150psi, and it raised to 170 (same with cyl 4 - it raised to 175). Why am I low on all 4? I'm thinking all piston rings are worn, or a disintegrated head gasket?
Old 12-29-2010, 11:41 PM
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A leakdown test will tell you exactly where it's leaking.



You'll want either higher-octane gas or Singh grooves to prevent detonation with higher compression, if you don't have a standalone timing controller.
Old 12-30-2010, 08:17 AM
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I can help with the piston part. If you are using Beta II rods and only 1.8 pistons you are going to raise the compression due to there being a raised area on the pistons, there is still lots of clearance for the valves due to the intake side being notched. If you put both 1.8 rods and pistons you will lower compression to 7.7:1, off boost power isnt terrible but there is a difference to stock compression. I ran that setup on my last boosted motor with the Alpine Stg 2 turbo kit and it is now in an Elantra and still pulling strong.



Like the other guys have said its a lot easier and worth while to pull the motor in order to complete all the maintenance you listed. If you have an engine leveler it will come out no trouble at all, just take your time and make sure everything is disconnected prior to the lift.



Good luck!
Old 12-30-2010, 12:15 PM
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Check out the sign Grooves, heard they actually do some other things, like help with cold start noise, keeps it form sounding like a diesel, also helps with Dets.



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