Ok, so this morning I started to sort a few things out for my custom CAI installation...

I repositioned the battery... no sweat!

I then disconnected the EVAP canister & proceeded to enlarge the hole in the fender well for the intake piping... piece of piss!

I didn't think too hard about the hoses that were connected to the canister confused.gif & simply connected them together : ... This is where I started to have some problems...
I went for a spin & initially the car seemed fine but about 2 blocks down the road the car started sputtering & then stalled! So I pulled over, started her up again & it coughed & sputtered for a few seconds until I gave it some gas... It seemed to be better but as soon as I let off the gas it stalled again...

Long story short... I got it home (stalling & starting her up again at every stop!) & ghetto-rigged the EVAP canister around where the factory air-box used to be & all seems alright now... The hoses stank of fuel but the car's running fine again!

I've since had another look at the EVAP canister removal DIY (http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/t...php?t=25610&p=1) but the canister looks different to mine... Mine is like a cylinder with IN/OUT at the top & a 3rd tube at the bottom that seemed to just vent out into a cavity in the chassis. I've read that some of you guys have just connected the hoses together & it's been OK. confused.gif Would the fact that it's a different setup have anything to do with the erratic idling & leaning out on my car?

Col, you've routed one of the hoses to your intake... which hose?

The canister looks shithouse where it is now so I'd like to find a way around this problem... Any ideas anyone???

 

Cheers mate! It's much appreciated! laugh.gif:

As for the cannister, it's definitely different... mine is smaller & round (cylindrical) but still with 3 hoses (presumably serving the same purpose/function).

*Double post edit*

*Bump*

Can anyone help? This is a genuine problem & driving around with my canister zip-tied to the intake piping is a lil' worrying, to say the least.

I just need to know what people who have removed their EVAP canister have done (in detail please).

Cheers!

 

*Bump*

Can anyone help? This is a genuine problem & driving around with my canister zip-tied to the intake piping is a lil' worrying, to say the least.

I just need to know what people who have removed their EVAP canister have done (in detail please).

Cheers!

 

HKC wrote:

"i had to move my cannister to the engine bay for the CAI to go in. I'm being forced to make a custom mount for the valve not to hang because any bump will cause it to unplug. then i bought extra tubes from home depot and ran them to my engine bay and connected them. they leaked so i'm have to put rubber cement around the connectors so that the tubes can be pressurized--when there is pressure, the Evaporation from the fuel tank can travel freely in any direction without problems. if there is a leak, you will get a CEL and the Evaporation will not travel properly. Recently, I got a CEL because the valve was hardly pushing the Evaporation back up to the cannister and it was all freezing at the bottom... so I had to drain it after every drive. LOL. "

He was helping me with a CEL problem I was having, a little different than your positioning problem. But i know HKC bought a AEM and had to re-position the EVAp set-up. He seems to have worked it our now.

Just be patient, when he reads this I'm sure he can help you out. I don't think our engine bays are that different, if at all.

 

OK Tim, this is what I did.
If you follow the piping back toward the fire wall you will get to a place where there is 1 hose comming up from the fuel tank & 1 hose going through a valve to the back of the IM.
The hose from the tank is the breather and is the 1 I put into the intake. You can just leave it open, or vent it elsewhere, but it can't be blocked off (which is what you did be joining the 2 together) or the tank won't be able to vent and a vacume will be created in the tank.
The other hose is a controled vent back to the IM from the canister. This line is closed almost all the time, and can be blocked off b4 the valve with no effect.
Remove all remaining pipe & hose to tydy the engine bay.

 

yes, you definatly do not want to block the breather line. I have seen fuel tanks crushed (imploded actually) from the vacuume generated by a running engine.

 

Aaaahhhhh!! That's what I was meant to do! :

Thanks guys! That's a load off... I'll sort it out after work tonight.

*EDIT*

OK... so I've done what Col suggested; I plugged one hose just before the valve & left the other hose open... i.e.: I cut the metal tube/hose that comes from the fuel tank, right above the valve on the other hose, then secured it in place... & I've just left it as is... so, it's litterally venting in the engine bay around where the old air-box was...

Is this OK? I took it for a spin for a few minutes & it seems to be alright... Fingers crossed!!

 

That will work fine, but why cut the pipe? I removed all the metal tubing in tact so that I can put it all back if needed some day. Venting to atmosphere will work (If you don't get fumes into the cabin), but I vented mine into the CAI to possibly keep the cops happy and to stop possible fumes. Mine has no CELs and runs just fine laugh.gif:

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (col96fx)</div><div class='quotemain'>...but why cut the pipe?</div>

Yeah, I know I prolly didn't need cut it but doing so meant I could secure it in the tube-holder that was already there... Just keeps it secure for now until I get the intake piping sorted out... Then I'll probably vent it like yours.

As for keeping the tubes & stuff intact... I can't imagine ever needing them again but if need be, I can always just reconnect them with a small section of hose & two small clamps.