i have the same problem on the dome lights inside the car but it seems just like a bad ground. if you take a volt meter and turn the lights on are you getting anything at the bulb, what are you getting for resistance on the ground side. follow the loom back and check for corosion.

 

i checked the loom, wiggled the harness, tapped the relay, checked for corrosion..... i just can't see anything abnormal. the more i thought about it, i lost the lights on that side shortly after i had my emisson test.... you think that might have anything to do with it?

 

how did they do the emission's test and how long did it take?

I know here in NJ they USED to use a dyno like test.. so did/does california.. cars get VERY hot on those things with no real airflow.. so it is possible to fry some things.

 

no, they just plugged into my cpu port under the dash, and then measured off the exhaust and gas tank, i believe.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlipStream)</div><div class='quotemain'>i have the same problem on the dome lights inside the car but it seems just like a bad ground. if you take a volt meter and turn the lights on are you getting anything at the bulb, what are you getting for resistance on the ground side. follow the loom back and check for corosion.</div>


When the door closes and opens theres a black little switch that is pressed in and out right above the tire preasure chart on the frame near the driver door. Ussualy when its cold or not lubricated that switch will get stuck closed and cause the dome light not to turn on or turn on late.