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Maximum Bore Beta

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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 07:15 AM
  #1  
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Default Maximum Bore Beta

Hi,I posted a while ago about converting a 1.6 Beta into a 1.8.
I think Red and Tasos both posted that a 1.6 (77 bore aprox) could be bored to 81 (aprox the bore of a 1.8).
It's not that I don't believe Red or Tasos, but I want to be absolutely sure this can be done. My mechanic told me it was dangerous, because if he went too far, he could hit the cooling ducts and the block would be useless.
Also, if it can be done:
1. The final meassures would be exactly the same as an OEM 1.8 (i.E. distance from cilinder wall to cooling duct)?
2. If 1 is right, does this mean that a 1.8 has better heat transfer capabilities? (as the piece of metal between the cilynder wall and the coolant is thinner).
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 07:44 AM
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If you want to be 100% certain, have your machinist sonic check the block. There's a device that uses sound to check the thickness of parts, including cylinder walls. If it turns out that the walls would be too thin then you know not to bore that block...go for another one and check it or just bore yours as big as is safe...custom pistons can be made if you Really want them for a custom bore size...
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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Yeah, the thing is it's realy difficult to find a Beta block over here, besides it's forbidden to import used parts, so I would have to import a "New" block, and that probably is a couple of thousnads, which I don't want to spend... I'd rather invest into other things.
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 09:15 AM
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I didn't specify the overbore, Tasos did. Going three full millimeters over is getting awfully thin. You could probably be alright for just keeping it N/A and also keeping the power output at the low side. But if your cylinder pressures get very high on thin walls, you can crack them or warp them.

Bad idea. sad.gif

If anything you could probably stroke it using a 2.0L crank and shorter rods (I'm guessing you could use 2.0L rods, but I don't know) and get close to 1.8L without having to overbore it bigtime.

-Red-
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 06:10 PM
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No you don't want to use the crank and rods of the 2.0L to your engine.You will have an undersquare engine which is weaker for mad boost. The 1.8L factory engine is almost square and that makes if very good for boost aplications! The 1.6L is been bored to 1.8L in my country all the time,for boost applications!They also change the pistons and use low compression very good quality pistons such as Accralites and Mahle made specifically for boost applications. No overbored engine has had a single problem until now. But the machinist who does that job is a VERY good one.In fact he is the best in Greece.

Indeed by overboring the 1.6L you make the walls thinner,but the heat transfer capability increases. Keep in mind that the 1.6L uses exactly the same cooling system as the 2.0L does...

Some guys go so far, and overbore 1.6L to 1.8L and then change the rods and crank...etc and have a 2.0L engine...

My opinion:I wouldn't do that if I were you. Whether you plan to turbocharge the engine or stay N/A, swap to 2.0L engine. MUUUUUCH cheaper less accurate and specialist job required, and you play it safe by keeping your engine intact. That's what I have done! Also keep in mind that it is much-much easier to find stuff and upgrades for the 2.0L engine than the 1.6L...

Hope this helps.

[ February 20, 2002: Message edited by: Tasos Salis ]
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 06:57 PM
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hey tasos i have 2 questions 4 u:

1)Did u start out w/ a 1.6 beta?

2)If so, what mods had u done w/ it b4 swappin it w/ d 2.0L?
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Old Feb 19, 2002 | 08:50 PM
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lantraluvr:

1)Did u start out w/ a 1.6 beta?

Yes I bought my Tib with the 1.6L Beta.Its a Y2K Tib.

2)If so, what mods had u done w/ it b4 swappin it w/ d 2.0L?

I bored the Intake Manifold + The throttlebody. Lightened and balanced crank-rods-flywheel. For intake I used a filtercone in a custom fiberglass-scoop.I used 4-2-1 headers,americat free-flow catalyst, and a custom full exaust 55mm. I changed the program of the EPROM of the ECU with a new one with different timings and fuel settings.Much tuning was done on the street with a laptop.The revlimiter was set to 7500rpms.

When It wasn't enough for me I changed to the 2.0L and this time I had the whole engine completely machined and modified (even bluprinted I think thats how you call it) while it was out of the car...Much-much money spent, still some problems apply, need more money to finish my project...

Hope it helps you.
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