i just ordered forged pistons and chromoley rods
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Joined: May 2001
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From: SC
i just ordered forged pistons and chromoley rods
i just ordered forged pistons, chromoley rods, and a set of piston rings today. they should be here in like 4 weeks. they said the pistons will be able to handle 40 pounds of boost or 150hp shot of nitrous. i was forced to order the rods since he said they will support the pistons and the factory ones wouldnt cut it. does anyone have any idea of installation time for something like this? what is involved? and how much $$$ to install this stuff? they are made specifically for the 1.5l sohc accent engine
so fitment should not be a problem. im just clueless as far as install cost and time are concerned. thank everyone
so fitment should not be a problem. im just clueless as far as install cost and time are concerned. thank everyone
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Joined: May 2001
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Random meant to say, "...That effects the cost of the motor work you'll have to do".
If the pistons do NOT require an overbore, I'm a little skeptical of how well they will break in. Typically very-high performance pistons will require an overbore because they want you to have absolutely brand new surfaces for the pistons and rings to "wear into".
You are basically replacing all the reciprocating parts inside your block, so don't expect it to be cheap unless you're doing the work yourself. The block comes OUT of the car completely, which means the transmission does too. Which also means the exhaust gets disconnected, the intake manifold and fuel rail gets disconnected, the wiring looms are disconnected, all your accessory-drive components (alternator, power steering, A/C) have to come off and the car will be out of comission for probably a good week.
Then the block is disassembled into it's individual parts: timing belt comes off, head comes off, pulley and flywheel come off, oilpan comes off, all four rod-ends come off, rods and pistons come out the top of the block, crank main caps come off, and the crank comes out. The water pump is removed, the oil pump is removed, and I'm thinking there is another part in there that also has to be removed but I cannot remember what it was...
The block is situated on a bore and hone machine, all the cylinders are punched out and then honed to the proper pattern and texture. (The standard moly rings from Ross Racing require a 240 grit texture at a 30 degree crosshatch, your rings should have come with instructions for proper grit and crosshatch AND piston-to-wall clearance) Once the bore and hone is done, the block is hot-tanked to remove all the little metal schrapnel that may still be around.
Once the block is done, you get to measure all the clearances on your new bearings. New crank bearings are fitted to the block and main caps, and then the crank is put in. The main caps are tightened to 15 pounds, and then untightened and removed to check if the tolerances between the bearings and the crank main journals are correct (plastigauge is cool). The same plastigauge bearing clearance testing is also done to the rod ends too.
Once all the bearing clearances check out, you can re-assemble the block. Oil pump and water pump go back in, crank goes in, crank main caps are fitted, pistons and rods are dropped in through the top of the block, rod ends are fitted, oil pan is installed, flywheel and main pulleys are re-attached, head is strapped back on, timing belt is installed, and the motor and tranny combo is dropped into the car.
I'd hazard a guess of about $1500 USD to have the whole deal done IF it's done right.
-Red-
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Red ]
If the pistons do NOT require an overbore, I'm a little skeptical of how well they will break in. Typically very-high performance pistons will require an overbore because they want you to have absolutely brand new surfaces for the pistons and rings to "wear into".
You are basically replacing all the reciprocating parts inside your block, so don't expect it to be cheap unless you're doing the work yourself. The block comes OUT of the car completely, which means the transmission does too. Which also means the exhaust gets disconnected, the intake manifold and fuel rail gets disconnected, the wiring looms are disconnected, all your accessory-drive components (alternator, power steering, A/C) have to come off and the car will be out of comission for probably a good week.
Then the block is disassembled into it's individual parts: timing belt comes off, head comes off, pulley and flywheel come off, oilpan comes off, all four rod-ends come off, rods and pistons come out the top of the block, crank main caps come off, and the crank comes out. The water pump is removed, the oil pump is removed, and I'm thinking there is another part in there that also has to be removed but I cannot remember what it was...
The block is situated on a bore and hone machine, all the cylinders are punched out and then honed to the proper pattern and texture. (The standard moly rings from Ross Racing require a 240 grit texture at a 30 degree crosshatch, your rings should have come with instructions for proper grit and crosshatch AND piston-to-wall clearance) Once the bore and hone is done, the block is hot-tanked to remove all the little metal schrapnel that may still be around.
Once the block is done, you get to measure all the clearances on your new bearings. New crank bearings are fitted to the block and main caps, and then the crank is put in. The main caps are tightened to 15 pounds, and then untightened and removed to check if the tolerances between the bearings and the crank main journals are correct (plastigauge is cool). The same plastigauge bearing clearance testing is also done to the rod ends too.
Once all the bearing clearances check out, you can re-assemble the block. Oil pump and water pump go back in, crank goes in, crank main caps are fitted, pistons and rods are dropped in through the top of the block, rod ends are fitted, oil pan is installed, flywheel and main pulleys are re-attached, head is strapped back on, timing belt is installed, and the motor and tranny combo is dropped into the car.
I'd hazard a guess of about $1500 USD to have the whole deal done IF it's done right.
-Red-
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Red ]
