DTN

k, I've checked my exhaust before by hand for puffs. I've also replaced the gaskets because I questioned them I don't really know how to go about leak testing it um, seafoam and hold my hand over the exhaust, look for smoke? is there a better way?

SOCKS_old

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>^^ You can adjust it all day long. It won't do anything if you're in the proper range. Sure, if you get down too low then the engine is going to run rough and you're going to throw a CEL. The engine RPM should be 800 +-100, which means 700-900. With the IAC disconnected you can adjust the RPM, then when you plug it back in, it will take over.</div>


by taking over, are you saying, that with the IAC connected, if you adjust the screw, itll still 'auto correct' to 700-900rpm.. if so, thats completely wrong.

Stocker

I forget, did you have a leakdown check done?

if the cam/crank/IAT/coolant/etc. sensors are all known-good, the electronics and electrical are all known-good, you swap in some fuel injectors and the idle is still rough, you just might have a mechanical imbalance. If everything BUT the engine is good, then it's got to be the engine, doesn't it?

Has your flywheel been checked for balance?

Silver lining: you can sell tickets to ride the bouncy car? (sorry)

DTN

No I have not had a leakdown test done. I am 205 across the board on pressure testing. Would it be worth it to do a leakdown test? I've had no change in my pressure testing for the last 2 years, and I've done it anually.

I have not checked my cam/cam/knock sensors, as they are kinda difficult to get to. I'm not reading any problems from them and it's been about a year, so you'd think I'd have thrown a code or something. I don't know about the knock sensor though.

I've had my stock flywheel resurfaced and balanced, then I replaced the flywheel with a lightweight chromemoly flywheel.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SOCKS @ Feb 16 2009, 03:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>by taking over, are you saying, that with the IAC connected, if you adjust the screw, itll still 'auto correct' to 700-900rpm.. if so, thats completely wrong.</div>
You can adjust the RPM, then the next time you turn on your car, it will auto correct after you rev the engine to 4,000 RPM and let it sit. Assuming your IAC is operating properly and your tb is adjusted within the limits of the IAC's control that is. If you go beyond the IAC's control, up or down, then you can actually adjust the idle.

SOCKS_old

if you adjust, using the idle screw, your actually opening the TB, so the IAC wont have anything to do with your rpm i would assume. even so, with the TB open its as if you have your foot on the pedal slightly, and itll stay at w/e rpm the car would normally be at 2% throttle and no load.

its more of a bandaid way to do it than anything, since the idle is supposed to be controlled by the IAC alone, but its a way to see if the shaking is from your rpms, or if its from something else.

DTN

^^ I've checked by disconnecting the IAC and setting the idle. The IAC sits at 1/4 open and will adjust itself based on the needs of the car. It provides a secondary path for air which will become larger or smaller as needed. If you have the throttle too far closed, the computer detects that and increases the bypass, if it's too far open, it detects that and decreases the bypass. The ECU has judgement criteria to determine if you're idling or not, and it sets the idle in that way.

I'm going to the shop now to put my car on a lift and try to check values/torque on different sensors.

Lorf

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DTN @ Feb 16 2009, 11:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>no exhaust or anything huh? How are your driving habits, are you rough on it?

more importantly, have you been conducting regular maintenance on it?

See, I'm a dick about maintenance on my car. I feel that this is wrong and should not be happening. Every time I do maintenance, I try to do an upgrade. If one of the upgrades I've done is the cause of this problem, I want to isolate it and remove the problem.

Currently, I'm using a hyundai oil filter and spark plugs just to make sure they're not the problem.

I just unbolted and re-bolted the damper a few times. It does decrease vibration with it removed as well as cockpit noise, but my steering wheel is still bouncing up and down like it's got Parkinson disease.</div>

Alright, here's the story of the car. I bought it last July, and I've put on about 4500 km since then (it's got about 201,200 km on the odometer now). The spark plugs were supposedly changed by the previous owner right before I bought it, and I don't doubt the validity of this because...well...it's a stupid thing to lie about. I had the car inspected by my mechanic last August when I needed a bearing replaced and they said everything looked fine. Since then I've changed the oil (Castrol Syntec at 199,500 kms with a Quaker state oil filter) and I changed the air filter at the same time (one of the usual brands from Canadian Tire, Fram I think)

As you can see, I don't daily drive it but when I do drive it, I drive it pretty hard. I drive fast and I rev the engine high quite often. Not the best idea considering the mileage on the engine, but nonetheless that's how I have been driving it.

Aside from the rough idle, everything seems fairly smooth. The steering wheel tends to shake a bit at 120 km/h but stops if I accelerate or decelerate to any other speed.

DTN

I'm going through the sensors on HMA Service

acelleration sensor -
While idling2.3 - 2.7VWhile driving0.5 - 4.5Vpin 3- right side of connector on sensor with notch on top.

<strike>Cam pos- 0-5V on/off checked by OBD-II thoroughly
crank pos - 0-5V on/off checked by obd-ii thoroughly</strike>
fuel injectors-
stethescope, was not able to find resistance specifications, check for bad cyl by disconnecting fuel injectors 1 by 1- should run the same with each disconnected
MAF sensor-I doubt it's bad because OBD reports good values
Idle (800 rpm)0.7 - 1.1 V3000 rpm1.3 - 2.0 Vpin 4 - right side of connector on sensor with notches on top

<strike>o2 sensors - replaced no check required replace again if no other leads?
coil packs- tested and verified
Engine temp sensor- obd-II reports temperature is good-temp matches thermostat opening temp within 5 degrees
intake air temp sensor -obd-II reports temperature is good- temp matches outside air within 10 degrees</strike>
knock sensor - is a capacitor, verify tightness
TPS pin 1-gnd should move smoothly with no gap. Pin 3-gnd

The shop is closed because it's a fed holiday. They will reopen Thursday. I will be there.

check points-
Exhaust leaks
all sensors mentioned above in bold
leakdown? -would this be helpful if all my pressures are good?

REDZMAN

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DTN @ Feb 16 2009, 12:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^^ You can adjust it all day long. It won't do anything if you're in the proper range. Sure, if you get down too low then the engine is going to run rough and you're going to throw a CEL. The engine RPM should be 800 +-100, which means 700-900. With the IAC disconnected you can adjust the RPM, then when you plug it back in, it will take over.</div>

LOL Tell it to my engine. The IAC adjusts to try to keep the engine running smoothly at idle, yes, but you can go beyond it's capabilities easily.

Just stop arguing this point DTN, you are less than 50% correct.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Maybe if I remove the damper now, it will change the vibration situation?</div>

It might. It could also be a worn out damper on your steering column. I've been told there are a couple of them there.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Now, you've said that your car has a shake to it as well. Are you trying to sell me on a megasquirt or something? Either you're telling me to just deal with it, or you have another suggestion? Did the megasquirt fix your rough idle?</div>

My car had a nasty idle after I put my Airram in, but that was well before the MS. This is the one we had to do a lot of adjustment on the idle adjust, the cruise, and the throttle cable to get it idling right. That's also when we found out about the CEL for idling too high.

I did have a few idle problems on the MS, but those were quickly adjusted via computer tuning. Yes, I'd highly suggest a MS to anyone as anal about controlling every aspect of their car such as you. That's not an attack, I'm the same way. If I could go back, I'd have done my exhaust, intake, and then a MS.

The MS can fix anything, without giving you a CEL.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>seriously, I'm looking for help here. I'm doing alot of work trying to get this fixed. I just cleaned and tightened up all of my electrical connections and performed a coil resistance check. While I was doing that I noticed a bunch of black stuff in my coilpack secondaries, so I removed it, relubed it, and it had no effect. I've spend hundreds of dollars trying to fix this problem. I need help.</div>

And we want to help. I really don't want you banned DTN, it's just turning out that way. Take the advice, and go with it.

I've got one more question for you, your IAC, is it the one that came on the car? If not, what's it's history? I wonder if maybe that thing has a bad leak or something.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>You can adjust the RPM, then the next time you turn on your car, it will auto correct after you rev the engine to 4,000 RPM and let it sit. Assuming your IAC is operating properly and your tb is adjusted within the limits of the IAC's control that is. If you go beyond the IAC's control, up or down, then you can actually adjust the idle.</div>

Again Adam, that may be what you think, but that has NOT been the case on mine. In my personal experience, the IAC only keeps the engine idling. That's it.

DTN

^^ I've replaced my IAC twice trying to fix this problem and I would say that I know everything there is to know about that sucker. There is no question that you can max it out, but it's not working properly when you max it out. If you max it out, then the engine idles too high in the morning and I have to readjust it or I get a CEL because it cannot close off anymore. I regularly clean and lube my IAC so that it floats my idle properly. It drives me nuts when it does not. I can tell the difference between the IAC sticking and moving freely. If I adjust it any higher then it is right now, yes, my vibration goes away but I get a check engine light saying Idle is too high in the morning.

Really? steering coloumn dampers? Where are they located?!?!? I've been looking for something like that and was not able to find it anywhere along the steering coloumn. I was going to look further, but I'd have to drop my steering rack to look any harder. Really, if I could stop my keys from vibrating, I'd be completly happy. It's the only noise on my interior.

I went through the parts breakdown and I was able to only find 2 things. Is there anything else?

bushing:
front steering/linkage gear part #25
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/RED...20RD2/RD2-5.jpg

grommet
steering wheel/coloumn #17
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/RED...20RD2/RD2-5.jpg


what is that cam, cancel part number 8 in the last picture?