Stocker

LOL sorry about the paint bro, I was thinking more along the lines of pinpoint application w/ a little red tube attached to the spray can! lmao.gif

I just had an idea: contact the members parting out cars and see if they will loan you some sensors for troubleshooting or cut a good price or something.

DTN

No problem at all. I did use the little red tube. It just over sprayed because the stuff comes out with force. It is for a good purpose and it eliminated a check point so I'm fine with the collateral damage.


New page, so I'll repost the check points list
Sensor checks
<ul>[*]acelleration sensor - spent the better part of today on it, not yet ruled out http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=30286[*]fuel injectors- stethescope, was not able to find resistance specifications, check for bad cyl by disconnecting fuel injectors 1 by 1- should run the same with each disconnected[*]knock sensor - is a capacitor, verify tightness, possibly get readings while tapping the block with a wrench to reproduce ping[/list]other checks
<ul>[*]Exhaust leaks - fog check[*]reposition 1st o2 sensor upstream for check. It is located in 2nd o2 sensor origonal positon after header install 2nd is behind new catalytic converter.[*]leakdown -only if everything else fail[/list]

radu_rd2

Have you considered that the vibrations might have started when you changed to a lighter flywheel? The inertia of the heavier stock flywheel is bound to reduce vibrations at idle a lot.. In this case, again, just adjusting your idle to be higher would be the solution, but you're not willing to try that and turn a little screw (despite the huge amount of work you've put in on this)..

I know I feel more vibrations at idle after my mods (probably from the lighter, underdrive pulleys and maybe 1.8 cam). I plan to adjust the idle up when I put in my bored TB.

DTN

no, the vibrations were there before I installed the lighter flywheel. I instaleld the lighter flywheel because I was convinced that would solve the problem.

Stocker

I forget, do you have an aftermarket crank pulley?

DTN

no, only a lightweight powersteering pully.

DTN

Ok... today I got alot of work knocked out. I put 7 hours into my car on a lift checking various points

fuel injectors:
I could hear steady and consistent tapping like what I'd expect from a small solenoid opening and closing. However on cylinder 1 the whooshing sound from the stethoscope was lower pitched and lower volume. I'm not quite sure what that means. It's the cylinder closest to the fuel pressure regulator/return.

Knock sensor:
I pulled the knock sensor off of the car for testing. It was torqued well beyond 11-15FtLbs. I've never touched it. I found a shop manual which listed the pin1-pin2 value as around 5 meghohms. It measured 4.6 megohms. I suppose that's good. HMAService says to check for capacitance. I read 100uF capacitance only when I banged it on some metal. I'm not sure if that is good, but I've started to learn not to trust HMAService.com. I retorqued it and there was no change

Exhaust leaks:
I fogged my exhaust with seafoam, then had an assistant build pressure on the tailpipe with a rag. I searched for exhaust leaks by looking for seafoam smoke and feeling for leaks. I was not able to find any leaks.

Relocate o2 Sensor:
I relocated my o2 sensor to the origonal location, which is only monitoring cylindar 4 on my header. There was no change. I moved it back to the location where it monitors all 4 cylindars, the origonal downstream location

o2 sensor testing:
I'm not throwing a code, but I figured I'd test this sensor since I had it off of the car anyways. I was only able to get a reading on the 2 white wires, it read 4.2 ohms. All other pins to all other pins were open and did not provide any ohm reading. Apparently that's good.

Manifold Vacuum:
sits at 19PSI
video reving the engine... I want a vacuum gauge in my car now: http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/D...ifoldvacuum.flv

Steering rack mounts:
I noticed that one of the steering rack mounts was not proper and required modification to make it work properly. Hyundai only has one type available but there's 2 types used. I'm pretty sure that you have to buy the new rack in order to get the passenger side mount. I replaced the steering rack mounts anyways. It did not change the vibration in my steering wheel

The frequency of the vibration is the exact same as the frequency of exhaust pulses. I'm not sure if that means anything or not. I just noticed that when I was holding a exhaust gas evacuator tube when I was fogging my engine in a bay.

Any input on what I should check next?

stealth

ok well i dont have time to read the whole thread right now, but if this hasnt been said already i will say it

one reason you're probably feeling the vibrations is because 4 cyl. engines idle rougher than a 5,6,8 etc... cyl engine because there isnt as consistent of a pattern inbetween piston strokes IE. an 8 cyl will have twice as many strokes at 900 rpms as a 4 cyl will thus you will feel more of a jerkiness/rough idle in the 4 cyl. As your engine wears and you get more and more miles, that pattern will become slightly irregular the more wear you have on the engine, causing more vibration.

DTN

Enough to shake the steering wheel and headlights through new motor mounts? I would hope it's not that. I'm trying to find options that don't involve tearing down the engine before I tear down the engine.

stealth

i would say so, ever been in a 3 cyl geo? my friend had a prostock 93 geo 3 cyl (dont ask why, hes a freak) but it shook like no other because of the irregular pattern between strokes. mine shakes a ton too, however i dont have most of the mods you do