Engine Rebuild Suggestions
everyone has their own opinion on gas grades, but underdrive pulleys aren't that expensive, in fact, I have one I could ship to you on Monday if you like, pm me if you're interested.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 0
From: Ashland, KY
Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tanc @ Nov 11 2009, 12:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You guys seem to be missing the point of lower octane gasoline vs higher octane gasoline. I suggest you guys do a little research and see the purpose of the 2 and their applications.
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Stocker @ Nov 11 2009, 04:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^ thank you tanc I couldn't think of a nice way to say it.</div>
While that is mostly true there are other things in play. Transmix is added to lower quality fuels, ex. 87,89. Transmix is the junk that comes from sending a shipment of kerosene, then 87 gas, then 89 gas, then 93 gas, then diesel then, ethenol, etc. through the same transmission lines. They then take the cuts between shipments and mix them into 87 and 89. The epa allows for certain percentages for each (not sure of that amount) but it's less for higher grades. Premium has none. That being said you should get better mileage from premium, typically not enough to make up for the price. In recap non-premium fuels have kerosene and diesel in them as well. The engineers I know that work/worked at Ashland/marathon all buy 89 or 93 for their cars.
btw, if you guys are unfamiliar with ashland, ky, the home of the rd server and supercow look on the back of a valvoline bottle. You'll see the little Ashland logo there. That plant is like 5 minutes from my house, about 6 from the home of rd.
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Stocker @ Nov 11 2009, 04:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^ thank you tanc I couldn't think of a nice way to say it.</div>
While that is mostly true there are other things in play. Transmix is added to lower quality fuels, ex. 87,89. Transmix is the junk that comes from sending a shipment of kerosene, then 87 gas, then 89 gas, then 93 gas, then diesel then, ethenol, etc. through the same transmission lines. They then take the cuts between shipments and mix them into 87 and 89. The epa allows for certain percentages for each (not sure of that amount) but it's less for higher grades. Premium has none. That being said you should get better mileage from premium, typically not enough to make up for the price. In recap non-premium fuels have kerosene and diesel in them as well. The engineers I know that work/worked at Ashland/marathon all buy 89 or 93 for their cars.
btw, if you guys are unfamiliar with ashland, ky, the home of the rd server and supercow look on the back of a valvoline bottle. You'll see the little Ashland logo there. That plant is like 5 minutes from my house, about 6 from the home of rd.
Super Moderator


Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Those are some pretty bright enginers wink1.gif or else they have run the tests that make it worth their while. $9/wk = $468/yr, not worth it for NO notable performance or economy gains IMO.
Talk to me about transmix after they stop putting ethanol in my gas over the winter, and start putting acetone.
Talk to me about transmix after they stop putting ethanol in my gas over the winter, and start putting acetone.
I'm surprised no one's recommended the 1.8L intake cam.
Check the surface of the block with a straight edge to see if you'll need to have that sent out to be true'd.
Is the shop you're sending you cylinder head to doing a full rebuild on it, or are you just having them shave is down and doing the rest of the work yourself?
If you're planning to do it yourself, check the HLAs. If you've been getting a ticking sound coming from your motor, you may need to replace 1 or more.
To port the IM, I'm using a rotary tool with drum sander. I tried some of the bits that came with my rotary tool, but found the drum sander to be the faster, easiest to control and gave the best finish.
Check the surface of the block with a straight edge to see if you'll need to have that sent out to be true'd.
Is the shop you're sending you cylinder head to doing a full rebuild on it, or are you just having them shave is down and doing the rest of the work yourself?
If you're planning to do it yourself, check the HLAs. If you've been getting a ticking sound coming from your motor, you may need to replace 1 or more.
To port the IM, I'm using a rotary tool with drum sander. I tried some of the bits that came with my rotary tool, but found the drum sander to be the faster, easiest to control and gave the best finish.
have him blueprint the head and open up the 90deg at the exhaust runners,
whatsup. sr tech, what exactly did you mean here. I'm planing to do a rebuild soon and was thinking of doing a port match and polish and the 1.8 cams. interested in what you saying but unsure of what you mean.
whatsup. sr tech, what exactly did you mean here. I'm planing to do a rebuild soon and was thinking of doing a port match and polish and the 1.8 cams. interested in what you saying but unsure of what you mean.


