Engine Rebuild Suggestions
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Shark Bite @ Nov 10 2009, 05:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>The difference between low-grade and premium-grade fuel in a tibby is only about two or three dollars per tank. Hell, I say suck it up and drop the pocket change for the health of the engine</div>
...Which is exactly why I do it. I don't know about you guys, but regular gasoline here contains up to 10% ethanol, which is shit on your engine, injectors, etc. The supreme stuff doesn't have any. I really don't mind throwing an extra few dollars per tank of gas just for the satisfaction of knowing that it is running cleaner. I also get at least another 50-70km per tank, which pretty much breaks even on the extra money I spent.
...Which is exactly why I do it. I don't know about you guys, but regular gasoline here contains up to 10% ethanol, which is shit on your engine, injectors, etc. The supreme stuff doesn't have any. I really don't mind throwing an extra few dollars per tank of gas just for the satisfaction of knowing that it is running cleaner. I also get at least another 50-70km per tank, which pretty much breaks even on the extra money I spent.
Your premium grade has no ethanol in it?? The only gas around here with NO ethanol is the 106 race gas by the local track.
The main problem with the ethanol is within the period that it sits. If you even go through a tank in a 2-3 weeks, the ethanol has had little to no affect on your fuel system. I had to take a 3 day class on this BS this past winter.
But if you can get pump gas without ethanol by all means fill that bich up.
.....and don't quote the post above yours smile.gif
The main problem with the ethanol is within the period that it sits. If you even go through a tank in a 2-3 weeks, the ethanol has had little to no affect on your fuel system. I had to take a 3 day class on this BS this past winter.
But if you can get pump gas without ethanol by all means fill that bich up.
.....and don't quote the post above yours smile.gif
Haha sorry about the quoting above, I don't usually do that! I'm pretty sure the 93 octane gasoline at most of the stations I go to have 0% ethanol. This isn't derived from empirical knowledge; I only say it because both switches for Regular and "Plus" gasoline have stickers above them that say "May contain up to 10% ethanol", the Supreme (93 octane) does not. Thanks for the info on ethanol, Sea-Ray, didn't know it took that long to have any buildup of crap affecting your engine/fuel system.
Anyway, this is getting a little off-topic. Any more engine rebuild suggestions?
Anyway, this is getting a little off-topic. Any more engine rebuild suggestions?
If you are ever planning on boosting or going further with the car than basic NA mods, plan for that now and do whatever would be required while youre in there. Other than that just follow torque specs and all that and you should be fine. Use some good assembly lube and use a lot of it.
You guys seem to be missing the point of lower octane gasoline vs higher octane gasoline. I suggest you guys do a little research and see the purpose of the 2 and their applications.
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ericy321 @ Nov 10 2009, 09:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>If you are ever planning on boosting or going further with the car than basic NA mods, plan for that now and do whatever would be required while youre in there. Other than that just follow torque specs and all that and you should be fine. Use some good assembly lube and use a lot of it.</div>
I'm not 100% sure if I will be boosting the car anytime soon. It's expensive, I'm still in school and then I have to notify my insurance company who will in turn rape me on premiums harder than they are currently (shaving the head isn't something I'll have to notify the insurance about since it's something they could never physically see in the event of an accident claim). However, say I were to boost my car in the near future, what would be a good way of "preparing" the car for it while I have the engine apart? I spoke to my father about porting the air manifold and adding a lighter crank pulley and he said that it's expensive for very little gain in performance. If I were looking to get every little bit of horsepower out of my engine, then maybe it would be worth doing. However, the purpose of my engine rebuild is mainly to keep the car running like new again for the next few years, since I intend to keep this car for many years to come. We are just shaving the head since it's not an expensive project and it does add a noticeable boost in power. I'll keep all of your suggestions in mind, and based on the amount of time/money I have when it comes time to rebuilding it (early spring 2010), we will apply them during the rebuild process.
Thanks so much guys, really helpful!
Nick
I'm not 100% sure if I will be boosting the car anytime soon. It's expensive, I'm still in school and then I have to notify my insurance company who will in turn rape me on premiums harder than they are currently (shaving the head isn't something I'll have to notify the insurance about since it's something they could never physically see in the event of an accident claim). However, say I were to boost my car in the near future, what would be a good way of "preparing" the car for it while I have the engine apart? I spoke to my father about porting the air manifold and adding a lighter crank pulley and he said that it's expensive for very little gain in performance. If I were looking to get every little bit of horsepower out of my engine, then maybe it would be worth doing. However, the purpose of my engine rebuild is mainly to keep the car running like new again for the next few years, since I intend to keep this car for many years to come. We are just shaving the head since it's not an expensive project and it does add a noticeable boost in power. I'll keep all of your suggestions in mind, and based on the amount of time/money I have when it comes time to rebuilding it (early spring 2010), we will apply them during the rebuild process.
Thanks so much guys, really helpful!
Nick
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tanc @ Nov 11 2009, 01:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You guys seem to be missing the point of lower octane gasoline vs higher octane gasoline. I suggest you guys do a little research and see the purpose of the 2 and their applications.
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.</div>
Ethanol "eventually" does give negative effects on gas quailty, mainly because it ABSORBS water. Go fill your tank with the 10%E, let it sit for 3-4 months un-stabilized and try to fire it up....been there done that. Given ethanol is nothing more than alcohol, yes it burns just fine and very clean.
And hopefully most people understand how the octane rating applys to knock...
On that note if you started putting 87 in your tib you'd have enough money in like 2 months for that underdrive pulley smile.gif
You really need to do this if A. You believe that putting 91-94 octane in your bolt on motor will be better for the health of your engine, B. Believe 10% ethanol has negative effects for the quality of gas.</div>
Ethanol "eventually" does give negative effects on gas quailty, mainly because it ABSORBS water. Go fill your tank with the 10%E, let it sit for 3-4 months un-stabilized and try to fire it up....been there done that. Given ethanol is nothing more than alcohol, yes it burns just fine and very clean.
And hopefully most people understand how the octane rating applys to knock...
On that note if you started putting 87 in your tib you'd have enough money in like 2 months for that underdrive pulley smile.gif
Unless that underdrive pulley is worth about $18 CDN, I don't see that happening. The average difference in price I pay for filling up with the good stuff versus the regular stuff is about $4.50 per tank. I usually get nearly two weeks per tank since I don't have to drive very far for school and work. If you do the math, that's about $9 a month, not a big expense in my book. How much is a lightweight underdrive pulley anyway? Figuring I could get a pulley for about $130, I'd have to drive the car on regular fuel for over a year to pay for that. And since I only drive this car in the summer (I take out my shit-box Cavalier for the winter, which I only fill up with regular gas), it would take at least 2 summers worth of driving on regular fuel to make that sort of economy. It just doesn't seem worth it in the end to me, especially when I get at least another 50-70km on a tank of supreme. Now evidently, I don't do this sort of math every time I pull up to the pump, I just do it because it makes me feel better. Sorta like how health-freaks spend exorbitant amounts of money on "organic" foods because it makes them feel good to know that they are not eating some poison-filled strawberries they found at the grocery store. It may not be right, but then again, who cares?
In any case, I don't really want to be discussing my gasoline pumping habits; the topic was set around engine rebuilding suggestions. Could we please keep it on that topic?
Thanks.
In any case, I don't really want to be discussing my gasoline pumping habits; the topic was set around engine rebuilding suggestions. Could we please keep it on that topic?
Thanks.





