Thats interesting... yeah swift i know about that haha, i just remember reading on here that the 1.8 stuff INCREASED compression on the 2.0 block... hmmm I guess not... but about this 1.8 tranny, did some searching and didnt really come up with anything other then what was said here

 

i thought just the 1.8 piston on the 2.0 rod increased the compression ?

 

hmm, maybe thats it then but yeah i knew it had to do something with 1.8 pistons, i recall someone telling me to use both but i always was pretty sure it was just 1.8 pistons.. can anyone confirm this?

either way ill prolly end up using that importshark rebuild kit... yeah im definatly gonna go N/A... im not gonna do low budget, prolly try n keep it as cheap as possible but im def going N/A, the BOV sound is cool and all, but tibs sound so nice and i might as well be the one moron who doesnt do what everyone else does.

 

1.8l piston + 2.0l rod + beta 2 head gasket = 11.1 cr
1.8l piston + 1.8l rod = 8.1 cr

cool.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (KAW21100 @ Dec 13 2006, 12:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>About this 1.8 tranny could someone elaborate more on what exactly it is and what i need to make put a clutchmasters stage 1 + fidanza flywheel?

o btw bro ditch the safc...unless somebody found a fix for our ecu =P</div>


the 1.8 tranny offers a shorter fourth and fifth gear, meaning it would be better for racing, but will top out at a lower speed. I redline at 140mph. Its worth it IMHO. The 1.8 flywheel is 2 pounds lighter cause its just a hair thinner (I measured).

And as far as the SAFC. let's not go there. It does a great job for n/a setups. our ECUs run rich at higher RPMs, the only way to really make that high power is to help the engine lean out a bit. The issue is when we boost, the ecu doesn't know how to adjust from the readings of the SAFC and the amount of air being fed from the turbo, as it will vary depending on the type of valve used to regulate pressure. Thats why factory turbos and small aftermarket setups use recirculating valves. They are way more predictable and reliable.

Also, if you really wanted to go n/a, higher compression WOULD be a better thing. but I won't go into that as it would be a complete waste of fmy time. laaaaaaaaaaaaterz.

 

i know this is a kinda old thread, but could we clear up, once and for all, the 1.8 setup on a 2.0? which pistons/rods/gasket/tranny/etc...too many people are putting out diff. info.

 

yes this would be good info, i'm surprised noone has sticked what the entire 1.8 set up should be on a 2.0

i mean its probably the cheapest way to get good power because we can junkyard almost all of it.

 

bump, answers?

 

Ok from what I gathered when I was looking into this, this is how it works:

For higher compression you want the 1.8pistons on the 2.0 rods and as doust said, beta2 headgasket... i guess that means from the cvvt beta motor? The 1.8 tranny has the same ratios from 1st - 3rd but 4th and 5th are slightly higher then the 2.0 tranny = good for drag racing, not good for going down the shore or just driving longdistance. You also want the 1.8 intake cam + 1.8 ecu. Other then that i believe everything is the same between the 2 motors.

For lower compression, you want the 2.0 pistons with the 1.8 rods and throw in one of those low compression headgaskets. And I think that the 1.8 cam helps but ive heard negative things from highboost + 1.8 ecu.

 

1.8L pistons on 1.8L rods in the 2.0L lowers compression to 8:1 about.

1.8L pistons on 2.0L rods in the 2.0L raises compression to 11:1 about.

If i had numbers I could do the math.