Hey there. Yeah you've experienced how hard I drive that car lol. I'm gonna throw one in the car stock because I'm going through withdrawls and have to drive it ASAP. (It's been over 2 months since I've driven the car any kind of distance - more than 1 mile). Then my plan is to get another one and build it with a quaife and get the gears shot peened and cryo treated, then re-assemble with new synchros and bearings.

Back to the thread topic, I am running the E6K as well Java. It has it's problems, but mine runs ok. I just accept the fact that the car isn't going to run perfect when I try to tune down 870cc injectors for a smooth idle at 14.7:1. It runs decent though. I'm sure if I got it professionally tuned I would get better economy and a bit more power. But I'm pretty sure I'm running on the knife's edge as far as safe goes! So far so good though so the heck with it. Only thing I'll be angry about is if the engine goes and destroy's the turbo with it!

 

Probably a bit off topic, but reading online I know the Innovate LC-1 can be a pit picky of ground locations, and wiring in general.

As I go back through and neaten up the wiring mess that lies underneath my dash (SMT-6, Innovate LC-1, Greddy Turbo Timer wiring >.<), I was curious as to how you have it grounded as I'd like to make sure mine is getting the correct readings from someone who has both the LC-1 and a Tib.

 

I have mine grounded using the same grounding point that my Haltech uses. I will find out how stable it is when I get my prosport gauge in today.

 

^^ I do the same; grounding is common for the Haltech and the LC-1. The Haltech also indirectly powers my LC-1 as well, I used the 12VDC relay switched portion that feeds the main Haltech fuse block.

One problem that I might have is distance -- I'm using an original 4-1 HVE header, but it doesn't collect until under the oil pan. I think they want it within about 18", and I might be slightly over that. I've got an O2 sensor bung welded into the 3rd cylinder tube, but didn't want to go through the wiring mess to get it installed that far forward in the engine bay right now.

 

Wow, Tyler! 2 trannies?? That sucks.

Regarding grounding, you DEFINITELY want to ground widebands at the same location as the sensor ground circuit of an EMS. The reason is widebands can draw enough current to cause "voltage ground loops" especially with teeny tiny wiring gauges.

As far as wideband placement goes, you need to make sure the sensor isn't on the bottom of the pipe where it can get a ton of water running into it. It needs to be on the top of the pipe in such a way as to drain any water OUT of the sensor. Distance from the motor isn't that critical, as long as it isn't upstream of the turbo. Realize the further away you get, the longer it takes to register an AFR reading, especially at idle.

 

Yup, I had the collector O2 bung welded in at about a 1-o-clock position, so no worries about moisture there. And the LC-1 manual must've warned about ground loops like a half-dozen times, way more than the one mention of proper bung placement in the exhaust pipe wink1.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Red @ Jun 5 2009, 08:56 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^^ I do the same; grounding is common for the Haltech and the LC-1. The Haltech also indirectly powers my LC-1 as well, I used the 12VDC relay switched portion that feeds the main Haltech fuse block.</div>

Same exact setup here. I thought about it for a day or so before wiring it up and noticed there was the perfect spot on the Haltech fuse block.

I just woke up and saw my package from Prosport came in. I don't have time tonight to wire it up, but tomorrow I am hooking up my AF/Volt gauge to my LC-1.