no, you don't put the rods in with the swap..

you use 2.0L rods, with 1.8L pistons. the 1.8L pistons are domed to give the higher compression.

if you use 1.8L rods and 1.8L pistons in the motor, you drop the compression to around 7.7:1 which would be good for guys wanting to push like 20psi daily on a turbo set up.

 

No, the 1.8l pistons have a higher dome.

 

I left out of my logic the shape of the piston. Thanks!

 

if you ask for a head set in a parts store, they'll know what you're talking about. It's a package of gaskets that include everything you need to properly do a head gasket job. i.e. the head gasket, valve cover gasket, thermostat housing gasket, valve stem seals, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and possibly even the water pump gasket.

So the heads are essentially identical? Red zman said the valve covers are, but how about the manifold gaskets and all? Still fits the same too?

Pistons do come out from the top, but you have to remove the oil pan to unbolt the rods. From experience, it's pretty rough getting them out from the bottom, since the cylinders tend to taper over time. Getting them back in would almost be impossible too, since the bottom of the cylinder area isn't flat like the deck of the block.

Overall, this is a pretty easily done job, but it's definitely not something you want to do if you're not experienced at it, especially if you're doing it on your daily driver fing02.gif

 

Update: I ordered the pistons yesterday, and Friday I got my head gasket kit. Got one for an 02 Elantra, since there were 2 options for the 03 (13 or 12 bolt valve cover?... had no idea). Shouldn't take long to get the pistons, but I still have to finish the rebuild on my Rx7 trans before I can start the teardown on the Tiburon's engine. I promise I'll take lots of pics for a how-to... If I remember. Probably between the time I get the pistons and install them, I'll have forgotten about the DIY thing and I'll already have the car running laugh.gif

I think I was mistaken on my use of terminology before. I thought that I had a beta2 engine. The beta 2 is the engine I'm using the head gasket from, and what I have is just referred to as a beta engine?

Pray this thing goes right hail.gif

 

Means you're goin before me bud. I'm hoping to buy the pistons when my dirt bike sells, and I'm stil waiting on that to happen.

 

New update. I ordered the pistons on the 8th, received them today (17th) Took about 6 working days to get them from Kspec! They've been pretty awesome to me so far. I ordered my 1.8 cam from them too, and got it in about the same amount of time.



I finished the Rx-7 transmission rebuild finally. Drives like a dream.

Now to put the pistons in... saevil.gif

 

good deal.. get the build going so you can review the higher compression on the beta and stuff..

yeah, everytime i have ordered from kspec, it comes fast.. thats why i recommend them. everyone i have recommended kspec to gets their stuff in a quick manner.

 

With as much experience I have in other things, admittedly I have never put pistons in a car. I researched it on Mitchell's and HMA, but they didn't have much to offer in terms of just HOW to check piston ring end gap. It took alot of searching to even figure out which rings belonged where, and I'm still a little confused about ring #2! It's called a taper type, but I don't see any taper...

And these wrist pins! Apparently you have to press them out, and get them dead on when you press them back in!? WTF is up with that!? Hasn't Hyundai ever heard of a snap ring?

Piston engines are much different from the rotary that I'm used to. I found out that in order to check the ring gap, you have to place the ring inside the cylinder (not on the piston) and check end gap using a feeler gauge. That is, after you've reamed the ridge, and lightly honed the cylinder to accept the new rings.

This is some cool stuff, but does anyone have any pointers?

 

I haven't pulled out any Hyundai pistons, but on other cars the second ring does have a small taper. The taper is installed up. If combustion gasses pass the first ring they hit the taper and in theory push the ring out against the cylinder wall to tighten the seal. You've got your ring gap method down. Now about the wrist pins. The type you wish you had are called floating pins. They have advantages and disadvantages. They tend to have lower friction and help with high revvers. They also work better for cars with a low rod-stroke ratio where the rod tries to press the pistons into the sides of the cylinders. The problems though are that those snap rings sometimes pop apart and then you get the wrist pin slapping around eventually wallowing out the piston and causing failure. Not too common of a problem but it happens. They cost more to the bean counters at the factory as well so pressed in pins cost less. Hyundai is all about cheap remember. I don't press my own pins in but the machinists I've seen usually heat the pin end of the rod with a blow torch and then shove the pin through with a vise. Takes them about 10 minutes to do 8 rods so it isn't hard I suppose. They don't usually charge much maybe $40 at least where I am. Just find somebody who does that kind of stuff on a regular basis or they may not get it right.