Rear wheel drive conversion
06-08-2002, 12:03 AM
#42
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That's the whole fun! Even in rainy conditions, my manual '84 is wicked! When you're turning, just mash the gas down and enjoy the fishtail!! You can try to counterseteer, and if done right, you can do a pretty neat powerslide! Impressive indeed!
06-08-2002, 05:55 AM
#43
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Alright, I see how it is, I finish up thew auto-manual swap and now when we jsut got that done you wanna move the engine.
If you aint happy with the fwd, sell it and go a rustang, they got a nice big underpowered v6 sucking lots of gas.
Look at the Mitsu FTO thats a nice ride. and FWD.
And you can drift in a FWD, you just need some tighter sway bars.
If you aint happy with the fwd, sell it and go a rustang, they got a nice big underpowered v6 sucking lots of gas.
Look at the Mitsu FTO thats a nice ride. and FWD.
And you can drift in a FWD, you just need some tighter sway bars.
06-08-2002, 10:09 AM
#44
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One thing everyone is forgeting that doing a rear wheel drive conversion requires the installation of a trans tunnel and lateral and parallel bracing of the struture to deal with the torsional load inputted into the chassis. Only do it if your preparred to spend money to do it rite, call a place called Gebharts Prostreet. They are one of the top prostreeters, they are located in Jacksonville Illinois.
The last time I checked converting my Beretta to rear wheel drive, with a tube chassis and lamb strut front end was going to be $30,000 complete. That was a finsihed sfi 25.1 chassis and paint, no drive line yet.
The last time I checked converting my Beretta to rear wheel drive, with a tube chassis and lamb strut front end was going to be $30,000 complete. That was a finsihed sfi 25.1 chassis and paint, no drive line yet.
06-09-2002, 05:27 AM
#46
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Thanks for pointing out how useless and pointless and whatever your opinion is...but this is just a discussion of how to do it, and what it will cost what we would need...and personally I dont think anyone has given a good answer. I just see a lot of bitching about how pointless it is...does anyone have any REAL information on how to do this?
06-09-2002, 06:11 AM
#47
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I could tell you how to do it and what you would need. First of all, remove the center tunnel in the car and the front floor. Build a frame using either a strut, mustang 2 or conventional A-arm arrangment. The your rear suspension choices come into play, that is dependent on what racing application it is intended for, you have a rear independant, ladder bar and adjustable 4 link. The Jag rear end is the most popular independant. Then you have to get the rear diff housing of whatever choice narrowed to the correct width. Most likely you will need a minimum of a 12 point cage, including front strut bars, rear strut bars. The cage will tie the car together to help distribte the forces equally and for added safety. The cage welds will have to be sonic tested to be certified.
For the foundation frame you would need some .120 2x3 tubing or .83 2x4 boxed tubing. You would loose your heater core, AC evaporator and rack. You would need to replace the rack with a frame mounted pinto or Omni rack dependant on if you need it mounted forward of the A-arms or rear.
The body will have to be channeled over the frame rails in order to get ground clearence. The body will have to be welded to to the frame rails. There will be 2x3 outriggers on to the frame that will be welded onto the body. That is how the body is attached to the frame.
Your second choice is a full tube chassis, these are less streetable, due to the fact that the chassis will wear out on the street. The tube chassis is great what it is intened to do, Prolonged street use will fatique the welds and tubes, eventually you will fail a weld. The tube chassis when it is over torqued can be sprung, like approaching a steep ramp on a drive. The choice is yours.
For the foundation frame you would need some .120 2x3 tubing or .83 2x4 boxed tubing. You would loose your heater core, AC evaporator and rack. You would need to replace the rack with a frame mounted pinto or Omni rack dependant on if you need it mounted forward of the A-arms or rear.
The body will have to be channeled over the frame rails in order to get ground clearence. The body will have to be welded to to the frame rails. There will be 2x3 outriggers on to the frame that will be welded onto the body. That is how the body is attached to the frame.
Your second choice is a full tube chassis, these are less streetable, due to the fact that the chassis will wear out on the street. The tube chassis is great what it is intened to do, Prolonged street use will fatique the welds and tubes, eventually you will fail a weld. The tube chassis when it is over torqued can be sprung, like approaching a steep ramp on a drive. The choice is yours.