Elantra 98
03-17-2011, 02:07 PM
#1
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Elantra Sedan Gls
Elantra 98
Anyone has an Elantra 98?...if so, any pictures?, would love to see some, specially if they are modified.
I have been struggling trying to find performed parts like, body-kits, information about swapping engine from a newer elantra or a Honda or Evo or any other car with higher HP's,info abut lowering kits, etc...etc...etc...
Any info will be really appreciated.
By the way....If anyone can help me with this question...when driving at variable speeds, the engine cuts out then cuts back on.
No consistencies to when or why it cuts out. Check engine light stays on for days at a time.
I bought this car on 2001,with 55,ooo miles and it has been doing this since then, actual millage 230,000....and still running like new :^)
Any idea on what can be causing this???
Thanks in advance.
Robertino
I have been struggling trying to find performed parts like, body-kits, information about swapping engine from a newer elantra or a Honda or Evo or any other car with higher HP's,info abut lowering kits, etc...etc...etc...
Any info will be really appreciated.
By the way....If anyone can help me with this question...when driving at variable speeds, the engine cuts out then cuts back on.
No consistencies to when or why it cuts out. Check engine light stays on for days at a time.
I bought this car on 2001,with 55,ooo miles and it has been doing this since then, actual millage 230,000....and still running like new :^)
Any idea on what can be causing this???
Thanks in advance.
Robertino
03-17-2011, 04:33 PM
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Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
Get codes read. Without the code, nobody can know what it is.
I still have to take photos of the Wagon because it's really low to the ground. It's so lovely! B+G is the BEST suspension, I mean truly truly amazing springs. The only problem is the splashguards had to be taken out.
It's really a fantastic car far ahead of its time. Although it's a 1996 design, still holds up remarkably well to all of these new cars (something other cars of its time couldn't do).
I still have to take photos of the Wagon because it's really low to the ground. It's so lovely! B+G is the BEST suspension, I mean truly truly amazing springs. The only problem is the splashguards had to be taken out.
It's really a fantastic car far ahead of its time. Although it's a 1996 design, still holds up remarkably well to all of these new cars (something other cars of its time couldn't do).
03-29-2011, 10:18 PM
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Elantra Sedan Gls
03-30-2011, 03:28 AM
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Vehicle: 1999 Elantra GLS Sportswagon
03-30-2011, 12:30 PM
#6
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^ With the graphics and the drop, yes. As is in the photos, no. Props but that was WAY too much work IMO. I'd rock it, but I'd never have built it!
03-31-2011, 06:41 AM
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Vehicle: 1999 Elantra GLS Sportswagon
Yes , it has been a lot of work especially the custom rear bar i did myself but I'm not finished yet. my next plan it get the Eaton m45 s/c done in June then rear disc swap, probably air suspension then some interior mods followed by custom paint job.
07-07-2011, 08:50 PM
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Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Lantra
By the way....If anyone can help me with this question...when driving at variable speeds, the engine cuts out then cuts back on.
No consistencies to when or why it cuts out. Check engine light stays on for days at a time.
I bought this car on 2001,with 55,ooo miles and it has been doing this since then, actual millage 230,000....and still running like new :^)
Any idea on what can be causing this???
Thanks in advance.
Robertino
No consistencies to when or why it cuts out. Check engine light stays on for days at a time.
I bought this car on 2001,with 55,ooo miles and it has been doing this since then, actual millage 230,000....and still running like new :^)
Any idea on what can be causing this???
Thanks in advance.
Robertino
Robertino.
This may sound a little odd but do it anyway.
Remove the positive and negative leads from you battery and clean up both battery posts thoroughly. Also thoroughly clean the cable ends where they connect to the battery.
Start the car and get it to operating temperature. Stop the car.
Lift the bonnet and remove the ECU fuse from the underbonnet fuse box (next to left hand strut top). Leave out for a few minutes, replace and restart the car WITHOUT TOUCHING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Allow the vehicle to idle for about 3-4 minutes and switch off.
You've now essentially set the vehicle back to factory spec and the ecu will go back into economy mode. If all is well you car should be running a lot better.
Just a word on performance.
I ALWAYS recommend attending to tyres, brakes and suspension BEFORE engine upgrades. Then, it's intake first, exhaust second and everything else after.
Hope this is useful.
Cheers,
Andrew