HID fog lights
#1
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Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track
HID fog lights
I put some fog lamps in my base 2008 Accent. I used the OEM stuff and 35w HIDs. Well they are too bright to drive around without blinding people and they are pointed basically 3' in front of the car. I could get them a little higher but you run out of adjuster. So I put the grille and fog light mounts under some surgery.
Parts needed are
2- 4mmx 50mm x .7mm full thread hex head bolts.
2- 4mm x.7mm nuts
2- 4mm washers
loctite
Tools
knife to trim plastic
grinder to remove steel from mount
Tools to remove bumper
phillips head screwdriver
flat blade screw driver
1/4" drive ratchet
3" or so extension
10 mm socket
8mm socket
First take off the bumper.
Before removing the lights take out the adjuster screw and the spring. Where the quick nut is on the lamp housing mark the black plastic of the grill where the light housing tab will hit the grill. Then remove the entire light.
Cut out the grille where you have it marked about 3/4" so the lamp housing tab will fit and allow the lamp housing to pivot past the grill. This cannot be seen when installed. Here you can see where the tab is recessed into the cut out area when mounted.
lCEbN.jpg
Then take off the metal bracket and remove the metal tab that stops the lamp from pivoting. It hits the lamp housing. The orange line is where a tab use to be.
u0Zii.jpg
Cut off the two plastic pieces of the bumper on each side of the lamp so they do not interfere with the lamp housing movement. You can see where it's been cut here.
nS9qx.jpg
Relocate the quick nut onto the top at the metal bracket. Then thread in the hex head bolt about 1/2 way, screw the nut onto it so some thread is sticking down, mount the washer and then the spring. Also a comparison between the original adjuster and the new setup.
GJIxT.jpg
I adjusted mine so there is .35" from top of the hex head to the quick nut and .40" from the top of the nut to the quick nut. Then put some wicking loctite onto the nut to keep it there. Probably don't need this as the spring will keep it under tension.
You can adjust them with an 8mm socket when installed for the fine tuning.
I also have them wired so they are only one when a switch is turned on and the high beams are on. This way they don't blind people unless you want to.
Parts needed are
2- 4mmx 50mm x .7mm full thread hex head bolts.
2- 4mm x.7mm nuts
2- 4mm washers
loctite
Tools
knife to trim plastic
grinder to remove steel from mount
Tools to remove bumper
phillips head screwdriver
flat blade screw driver
1/4" drive ratchet
3" or so extension
10 mm socket
8mm socket
First take off the bumper.
Before removing the lights take out the adjuster screw and the spring. Where the quick nut is on the lamp housing mark the black plastic of the grill where the light housing tab will hit the grill. Then remove the entire light.
Cut out the grille where you have it marked about 3/4" so the lamp housing tab will fit and allow the lamp housing to pivot past the grill. This cannot be seen when installed. Here you can see where the tab is recessed into the cut out area when mounted.
lCEbN.jpg
Then take off the metal bracket and remove the metal tab that stops the lamp from pivoting. It hits the lamp housing. The orange line is where a tab use to be.
u0Zii.jpg
Cut off the two plastic pieces of the bumper on each side of the lamp so they do not interfere with the lamp housing movement. You can see where it's been cut here.
nS9qx.jpg
Relocate the quick nut onto the top at the metal bracket. Then thread in the hex head bolt about 1/2 way, screw the nut onto it so some thread is sticking down, mount the washer and then the spring. Also a comparison between the original adjuster and the new setup.
GJIxT.jpg
I adjusted mine so there is .35" from top of the hex head to the quick nut and .40" from the top of the nut to the quick nut. Then put some wicking loctite onto the nut to keep it there. Probably don't need this as the spring will keep it under tension.
You can adjust them with an 8mm socket when installed for the fine tuning.
I also have them wired so they are only one when a switch is turned on and the high beams are on. This way they don't blind people unless you want to.
#2
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Excellent work man, I love these types of modifications. It doesn't look too difficult at all.
How's the light from the fogs now? Throw up some night shots, I'm curious about the spread and cutoff etc.
How's the light from the fogs now? Throw up some night shots, I'm curious about the spread and cutoff etc.
#3
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Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track
It was pretty easy once I figured out what needed to be done. Took about a couple of hours all together. I did not drive it last night, I will tonight and get some out in the wild shots.
Here's some pics form last night right before winter hit.
Fog lights on.jpg
Lights aginst the garage.jpg
#4
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Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track
I had to put the quick nut back where it was OEM style. I had way too much adjustment and the lights were in the trees. When backing it off the spring pressure kept the lensers point up. So all you really need is a longer adjustment bolt and trim the plastic/metal frame.
Here's the final adjuster.
1Secn.jpg
The lights are fantastic. They easily double the amount of light from the hi beams. Here's a shot of just the fogs on.
6toDN.jpg
Here's the final adjuster.
1Secn.jpg
The lights are fantastic. They easily double the amount of light from the hi beams. Here's a shot of just the fogs on.
6toDN.jpg
#6
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Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track
Thanks. I'm looking for brighter headlights because with the fog lights on you can barely tell when the hi beams are flicked on. Just a little more yellow light compared to the white of the HIDs. Should have got the 5k HIDs instead of the 6K.