UPDATE EDITED WITH TIPS ON 1/25/10

I am going to change my timing belt next month.
-i have a 2002 lc 1.5l-
-timing belt, drive belts, and water pump all will have 60,000 miles next month (they all got replaced with the first timing belt)

-i did not change my own belt last time so this will be a first for me. i have already read and printed the details from alldata and hmaservice.
-just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice that i may have over looked.

 

Learn how to find TDC on the engine. learn how to set the timing on the engine. Study it and then study it again. People may try to tell you to mark the teeth and all and 'dont move' anything. If you know how to reset the timing on the car a timing belt is no more a pain in the ass then getting the tension right and having the hands to get into small spaces.

 

Timing is something I would never mess with without having alot of experience. Its best to be left to the pros. One little mistake could result in a destroyed engine.

 

If you have DOHC, there is a tool to hold both cam gears at the exact same spot you took them off of. Invest in it.

 

timing belts are easy expecially on our motors (even if its a DOHC there is only 1 sprocket for the cams...)

just mark it how it is before you remove it (mark the sprockets)
brace engine
remove motormount
remove pulleys
remove belt
make sure the sprockets line up again
replace belt
replace pulleys
reinstall motor mount
drink beer and call it a day

i could do it in like a hour and a half ruin the motor? worst ive seen is a few bent valves nothing a machine shop couldnt fix these motors ARE EASY AS HELL to work on practically everything is a 10, 12, 14, or 17mm

 

thanks for the feedback, i will probably start this around the first week of december (in 747 school right now). im definitly going to change the tensioner

 

i finally changed my belt what a PITA!!!
now that ive done it once it will be easy next time around.
<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">**TIPS FOR CHANGING YOUR OWN TIMING BELT**</span></span>
-sign up with HMA service at HMASERVICE.COM; alldata is good enough but hma is slightly better. FOLLOW THE HMA DIRECTIONS THEY ARE VAGUE BUT CORRECT
1. this is for the 1.5l SOHC 2000-2002 lc (newer models will be similar but you have DOHC)
2. I supported the engine with a jack under the oil pan with a pice of ply wood to help distribute the weight (you only need to remove the passenger side motor mount)
3.the water pump bolts are difficult to get to but theres not much torque on them. i used a short stubby wrench and rotated the pulley 90 deg. for easy access. this is easier to do with the engine lifted slightly and tension still on all the belts.
4.removing the crankshaft bolt is very hard. i hard the car in 5th gear with a 24" breaker bar. it still spun the tires several times but i was persistant and it finally broke loosed. also i dont think i will need to go to the gym for a few days because this is a better back workout than a seated row.
-also try having somone hold the brake pedal while you loosed the bolt. also it helps to remove the plastic cover from inside the passenger wheel well.
5.your crank and cam will move when you take the timing belt off so have your gears on there marks (reference HMA for finding the timing marks)
6.once you get your new belt on turn your cam pulley until the tension is on the side that doesnt have a tensioner. after you add tension with the tensioner you timng will line up again. manually rotate the cam/crank pulley back and forth several times and recheck your timing. if its good start reasembling your engine.
7. after everything is bolted back together check and recheck that the water pump pulley, all 3 belts, alternator, power steering pump, crank bolt, motor mounts, and everything else is secure and properly torgued.

as i think of more or get good replys i will edit this info.

 

Pretty decent writeup. I'm going to be doing mine soon, and this will help. I think the plastic panel in the wheelwell will let you get to the crank pulley bolt with an impact wrench if you take the tire off if I remember right. It'll take a high torque impact though, electric ones or anything under about 350lb/ft of torque probably won't have a chance.

 

crank pulley bolt is easy to get off
i took mine off with a 200mm socket driver
put the car in 4th gear and put a spreader bar/quick clamp against the brake pedal
didnt shift a bit
i just held the head of the driver flush against the nut and tapped the end with a rubber mallet
well, it was more a hit then a tap, but it came loose fine smile.gif

 

-i didnt have anyone here with me that could reach the brakes so the crank bolt was a pain but it finaly came off. the dealership changed the first belt so maybe they over torqued it?
-i also removed the plastic panel but i didnt remove the wheel just turned it full right.
-i also had problems getting the jack under the engine but my car is lowered.

342four and 187sks thnx your tips will be added.