I was reading the thread about the VW's Power to weight ratio, and was wondering how do you figure that out? You mentioned weighing the car on a truck scale, I'm assumeing at a weigh station? I don't have one of those near me but we do have a trash truck transfer station (with pull on scales.) I looked for stickers on the inside of the doors but the stickers are missing so I don't know the gvwr or whatever. Does anyone know what an 01 lc hatch weighs stock? So when I get it on the scales I know how much weight i've lost?

I'm doing the Beta swap into my accent so I'm guesstimating about getting atleast 115-125 Hp to the wheels (stock motored) going to N/a the SH*T outta of it. as the car sits right now I have no interior. Back seat was missing when I got the car. all that is inside right now is the dash 2 front seats and teh door panels. I'm gonna lose almost every non essential parts. except the interior plastic panels. everything else is either already trash canned or has yet to be pulled out.

 

I weighed my car at the drag strip scales. It came in at 2550 with me in it, FYI it's a Beta Swapped 96 Accent (motor and trans) with no weight reduction.

 

What about power steering and A/C? You could do a CF hood, lightweight rims, and if you can find a supplier to make them....CF fenders, doors, and hatch. You could also replace all your glass with Lexan. smile.gif

 

The LC weighs around 2250 bone stock depending on options.

It's harder to lose weight in the Accent than it is in the Golf, working on both cars. The Accent's weight comes mostly from it's structure where the Golf has a lot of heavy removable things. There is almost no structural bracing on the Golf. It's actually scary. The Golf had heavy sound deadening material, and heavy thick carpeting and padding.

To get an Accent down to the weight of Wilbur's Golf would require all the work Visionz mentioned, and none of the extreme lightening has been done to the Golf yet, it's only been stripped.

You can figure out your power to weight ratio like this:

weight/horsepower

The most accurate method would be to measure the weight with driver, and the horsepower at the wheels. That will yeild the lowest power to weight ratio but it will be the most representative. If a magazine (or auto manufacturer) quotes a power to weight ratio it is without driver and at the flywheel.

Example:

My Accent weighs 2280 pounds without me in it, 2590 pounds with me in it. It makes 99whp, 116 +/- at the flywheel.

2280/116 = 19.66lbs/hp <==Compare to magazine figures

2590/99 = 26.16lbs/hp <==More representative of how quick my car is

 

Oh yeah, and to clarify my figures, I used the ratio of 17% driveline loss. So 150 wheel horse is 175.5 crank horse. Then I used the crankhorse/vehicle wieght.

You can also cut out the extra steel in the interior, so its litterally just the outside skin of the car. VW decided that would be awesome from the factory like that..

I also plan to pull up the tar-paper soon, That should shed maaaaybe 100 pounds. There is alot in there. Yeah, I use the same truck scales, or weight station. The ones at the dump would work too, and you can probably get away with it for free.


Dont tell anyone.. but for the class I want to run with in autox im already 300 pounds too light... wink.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wilburisthecoolest @ Oct 8 2008, 10:48 AM) </div><div class='quotemain'>You can also cut out the extra steel in the interior, so its litterally just the outside skin of the car. VW decided that would be awesome from the factory like that..</div>
They must have changed their mind with a new R32 Golf weighing 3500 pounds and not being any bigger. lol.

 

I'm not really looking to get into AutoX because the Motor swap would pt me in a oddball class. I just really want a well handleing,rather quick beast. My goal is to stomp all oever my buddies SRT 4 in the spring time for less than 3 grand. I paid 150 for the car and am getting a beta II for 85 dollars. That leaves me with about 2800 dollars to build/boost or whatever I'm gonna do.

 

BOOST.

I cannot stress that enough.. but BOOST

Hey visions, we need a smiley sign that says BOOST IT

 

wow 85 dollars for a motor swap thats a sweat price!

and yeah the only way you will even touch an srt-4 is if you boost it
slap a turbo in there and tune it at 10-12psi because that will really be all you need to make him cry.

and stress a correct tuning make sure timing is right always!
keep it safe no explotions.

go turbo not Supercharger on FWD cars.

the small amount of turbo lag helps you hold traction better.

if you get it done at a great price then you can put some lightweight rims on and some superslicks.

when done Im sure you will have fun messing with bigger game wink.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wilburisthecoolest @ Oct 8 2008, 05:08 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>BOOST.

I cannot stress that enough.. but BOOST

Hey visions, we need a smiley sign that says BOOST IT</div>

LOL DITTO. Yeah even with a Beta its useless to go N/A you need a Delta motor or something to get anything past 180 whp N/A with out HUGE mods.