Your help is needed.
#1
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Tiburon FX
Your help is needed.
I recently clipped the wires on my alternator plug due to them being damaged, and I forgot to mark which one is which.
If someone can just take a quick look at theirs and either tell me or send me a picture, I will love you forever. My car is a 1st generation, it's the one on the left.
Thanks in advance.
If someone can just take a quick look at theirs and either tell me or send me a picture, I will love you forever. My car is a 1st generation, it's the one on the left.
Thanks in advance.
#4
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No, my friend brought his over the other night and we couldn't see a difference between the two posts on the ALT itself, but then again I could've fried the voltage regulator by switching them :/ But I don't have one myself.
#5
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If anyone at all can take a pic of theirs, at this point I've had an auto electric guy over to look at it, and he said everything was fine, but his wiring diagrams for the plug itself were vague. It showed the tab being on top with a 1 on the left and a 2 on the right. Now I know that the green tracered wire is pin 1 and the blue is pin 2, but I don't know if the diagram is looking at the front of the plug or the back (by back I mean where the wires enter the plug itself).
Any help is mega appreciated. Dude that was out here charged me $50 and basically said "looks good" but I still have no activity from the alternator (keep in mind this is the 3rd alternator I've put in it).
I bought a multimeter and w/car off the battery is reading 11.86v and engine on it's 11.35v
When the dude was here, though, I saw that it was reading at 14.96v This is the second time I've gotten it to charge and then it just stops after that, and I don't touch anything. Seems really strange.
Any help is mega appreciated. Dude that was out here charged me $50 and basically said "looks good" but I still have no activity from the alternator (keep in mind this is the 3rd alternator I've put in it).
I bought a multimeter and w/car off the battery is reading 11.86v and engine on it's 11.35v
When the dude was here, though, I saw that it was reading at 14.96v This is the second time I've gotten it to charge and then it just stops after that, and I don't touch anything. Seems really strange.
#6
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looking at the engine from the front of the bay the order is
cyl1, cyl2, cyl3, cyl4
Cyl1 and cyl4 are on one set of coils. cyl 2 and 3 are on the other. If it does not work one way, then try it the other. You're not going to mess anything up.
cyl1, cyl2, cyl3, cyl4
Cyl1 and cyl4 are on one set of coils. cyl 2 and 3 are on the other. If it does not work one way, then try it the other. You're not going to mess anything up.
#7
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DTN, I think you misread something. He needs info on the alternator, not coils.
It sounds like the Hyundai alternator is the same as the one's used on GM's. This is a 3-wire alternator, correct? One big wire to the battery and two small wires on a plastic plug, correct? Your terminals are numbered 1 and 2, correct? OK... #1 is accessory power. This is what activates the alternator. Any switched power source can be attached to terminal #1. The factory wire might run through and "idiot" light on the dash, so if you can, use the factory wire.
Terminal#2 is the voltage sensing wire and tells the internal regulator what the battery voltage is. You can use the wire from the factory harness, jump it directly to the battery wire on the back of the alternator or leave it off. If you leave it off, the alternator's internal regulator will become internal sensing.
In a nutshell, ACC power goes to terminal 1 and constant power goes to terminal 2.
It sounds like the Hyundai alternator is the same as the one's used on GM's. This is a 3-wire alternator, correct? One big wire to the battery and two small wires on a plastic plug, correct? Your terminals are numbered 1 and 2, correct? OK... #1 is accessory power. This is what activates the alternator. Any switched power source can be attached to terminal #1. The factory wire might run through and "idiot" light on the dash, so if you can, use the factory wire.
Terminal#2 is the voltage sensing wire and tells the internal regulator what the battery voltage is. You can use the wire from the factory harness, jump it directly to the battery wire on the back of the alternator or leave it off. If you leave it off, the alternator's internal regulator will become internal sensing.
In a nutshell, ACC power goes to terminal 1 and constant power goes to terminal 2.
#8
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QUOTE (i8acobra @ Sep 12 2010, 10:15 PM)
DTN, I think you misread something. He needs info on the alternator, not coils.
It sounds like the Hyundai alternator is the same as the one's used on GM's. This is a 3-wire alternator, correct? One big wire to the battery and two small wires on a plastic plug, correct? Your terminals are numbered 1 and 2, correct? OK... #1 is accessory power. This is what activates the alternator. Any switched power source can be attached to terminal #1. The factory wire might run through and "idiot" light on the dash, so if you can, use the factory wire.
Terminal#2 is the voltage sensing wire and tells the internal regulator what the battery voltage is. You can use the wire from the factory harness, jump it directly to the battery wire on the back of the alternator or leave it off. If you leave it off, the alternator's internal regulator will become internal sensing.
In a nutshell, ACC power goes to terminal 1 and constant power goes to terminal 2.
It sounds like the Hyundai alternator is the same as the one's used on GM's. This is a 3-wire alternator, correct? One big wire to the battery and two small wires on a plastic plug, correct? Your terminals are numbered 1 and 2, correct? OK... #1 is accessory power. This is what activates the alternator. Any switched power source can be attached to terminal #1. The factory wire might run through and "idiot" light on the dash, so if you can, use the factory wire.
Terminal#2 is the voltage sensing wire and tells the internal regulator what the battery voltage is. You can use the wire from the factory harness, jump it directly to the battery wire on the back of the alternator or leave it off. If you leave it off, the alternator's internal regulator will become internal sensing.
In a nutshell, ACC power goes to terminal 1 and constant power goes to terminal 2.
thank you thank you thank you.
Now, the reason I'm asking for a picture is that I cut the plug off of my car. Cut the damn wires right off (because one of them was badly damaged). It was late and I was tired/somewhat tipsy. I neglected to note where the wires were before I completely dismantled the plug and made new wires/connections. No wiring diagrams are helpful enough as to relieve all doubt as to what wire goes where. I need visual verification that I've got it right.
Hence asking for a pic. I look at a pic of the plastic plug and which wire is where and I can determine if mine's backwards or not. I don't need anyone to take theirs off, just take a pic of theirs and maybe back the sheathing off a little to show the wire colors.
Thanks again everyone.
#9
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Do you have a voltmeter or at least a tester light? One of the original two wires should have 12V when the car is running. The other should have 12V all the time. Refer to my above post to know which one goes where. I don't have a Hyundai anymore, so no pics. Sorry.
#10
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QUOTE (i8acobra @ Sep 14 2010, 04:06 AM)
Do you have a voltmeter or at least a tester light? One of the original two wires should have 12V when the car is running. The other should have 12V all the time. Refer to my above post to know which one goes where. I don't have a Hyundai anymore, so no pics. Sorry.
I _REALLY_ appreciate the help. going to advance after work to get a new set of solderless leads.