Oil pan removal
01-06-2003, 08:24 AM
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Oil pan removal
Okay, is there anything I should know or remember when I'm taking my oil pan off? I need to replace the sealant between the pan and engine, and I didn't want to run across anything surprising. It's my first time, so any advice is helpful.
01-06-2003, 09:12 AM
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Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
Nuthing phunky to worry about.
#1. Draining the oil will NOT remove all of the oil
#2. The oil pan has no gasket, just sealent "goop". It will stick to the block even with no bolts holding in in place. Removing it requires a putty knife to pry the pan away from the block. Be very careful. You don't want to scratch the block, or the pan, as scratches will affect sealing.
once the pan is off, wipe down the mating surfaces to remove all traces of oil, and scrape away all remaining gasket goop, and once again, wipe them down again to remove traces of oil before applying new sealing goop and reattaching.
I've always found it helpful to apply the sealant, then let it tack up for about 5 minutes before mating the 2 surfaces together. It prevents the sealent from running, and it promotes adhesion. Try to keep the bead of sealant no larger than 1/8" high. Too much sealant can ooze back into the oil pan and possibly clog up the oil pickup.
Bolt the pan back in loosely, then tighten it in a "rotating square" pattern. (tighen down the 4 corner bolts, then go one bolt right, and tighten, and repeat. This will make sure the sealant/goop will ooze out along the seams. Allow the sealant to dry before removing excess that oozed out.
#1. Draining the oil will NOT remove all of the oil
#2. The oil pan has no gasket, just sealent "goop". It will stick to the block even with no bolts holding in in place. Removing it requires a putty knife to pry the pan away from the block. Be very careful. You don't want to scratch the block, or the pan, as scratches will affect sealing.
once the pan is off, wipe down the mating surfaces to remove all traces of oil, and scrape away all remaining gasket goop, and once again, wipe them down again to remove traces of oil before applying new sealing goop and reattaching.
I've always found it helpful to apply the sealant, then let it tack up for about 5 minutes before mating the 2 surfaces together. It prevents the sealent from running, and it promotes adhesion. Try to keep the bead of sealant no larger than 1/8" high. Too much sealant can ooze back into the oil pan and possibly clog up the oil pickup.
Bolt the pan back in loosely, then tighten it in a "rotating square" pattern. (tighen down the 4 corner bolts, then go one bolt right, and tighten, and repeat. This will make sure the sealant/goop will ooze out along the seams. Allow the sealant to dry before removing excess that oozed out.
01-06-2003, 09:58 PM
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I'd do the factory torque spec. They are hanging down on the engine, which makes them more apt to vibrate loose. However, you also don't want to overtighten them, as you could strip the threads.
good luck, and let us know how it goes. I need to remove my pan to install a turbo oil drain, reseal (I think I'm getting a tiny leak), and bang out a dent that magically appeared there a year ago. I'm going to wait 'till it gets a bit warmer, though (30 degrees right now here in D.C.)
later,
ac
good luck, and let us know how it goes. I need to remove my pan to install a turbo oil drain, reseal (I think I'm getting a tiny leak), and bang out a dent that magically appeared there a year ago. I'm going to wait 'till it gets a bit warmer, though (30 degrees right now here in D.C.)
later,
ac