Cheuk!
The actuator is not disconnected.he actually lengthened the rod an inch and now it set to 11PSI
Now the thing is the Turbo doesnt spool till i hit second gear and takes more time for the Turbo to actually kick in because he enlarged the ROD!!
I might just install the EXTERNAL wategate like you said and this should get rid of the problem.One thing im also surprised is that the ECU did not throw any CEL at all?Im really surprised.

 

It sounds to me like there is something wrong with your wastegate or actuator.

I have no problem keeping boost at 9psi, even at full throttle at high RPM. It seems like your wastegate may not be opening fully, thus allowing enough exhaust gases to spin the turbo anyway (like cheuk stated)

Switching to an adjustable wastegate would be a solution, however, that means going external....

I would try to concentrate on the internal wastegate and why it's not opening properly or fully.

 

Well, looks like you already got the answers smile.gif I'm just here to add my $0.02...

What Cheuk is saying is definately correct, it's commonly referred to as "boost creep". This is when your wastegate cannot physically open far enough to vent enough exhaust AROUND the turbo, so there's still enough going THRU that it continues to spool. Going to a larger external wastegate usually fixes this.

But Random also has a point: that little internal wastegate on the turbo was built for a 2.0L engine... Your little 1.8L shouldn't be making enough exhaust to boost creep. It sounds to me like either the actuator is sticking, the wastegate is sticking, the line that feeds the actuator is blocked somehow (look for tiny plastic T's in the vacuum line and replace them with larger ones)...

The internal wastegate should be sufficient for your 1.8L and "low boost". I'd start with trying to diagnose potential problems within the system before adding more (expensive) parts.

 

oh BTW im pretty sure u didnt hit 22psi cuz if u did ud notice it liek ur tires would break loose etc.... and ur engine wouldnt like you.... boost guages sometimes just do that or u spiked i dunnno maybe u read it wrong but if u want it totally set @ 7psi than get an external wastegate or check ur turbo, didnt u buy a rebuilt/or used turbo?

 

Random since your running 9PSI and the boost is not creeping is this because you have the HEADSPCAER installed?
Im running without a headspacer and that would explain why the boost is creeping and also i have CYLINDER HEAD WORK as this will affect it as well.
But how can the machanic test to see if the actuator is stuck?
He already extended the rod one inch and as a result of this i did loose bottom end power but the boost maxes out at 11psi instead of 22PSI before the rod the lengthed.
If i do install an external wastegate would there be room to run the pipe from the exhaust manifold?
Or would i need a new manifold made for my car.
Thanks smile.gif smile.gif

 

I was at the shop today and fixed one of the problems where he installed the actuator rod to the original HOLE setting NOT THE SETTING of the extended piece he welded.My car still hits 11 PSI but on the stock settings.
He removed the downpipe to check on the flap and its PERFECT not sticky at all?.He removed the little pin that holds the Rod and moves very Freely.Now i think the reason when he disconnected the PIN it hit 10PSI is because of the Downpipe which is supplied by Alpine.If you disconnect the PIN you should get very liitle boost and in my case it still stayed at 11psi.The machanics believe that on the actual Flange of the downpipe its Blocking the Flapper to be Fully opened and is hitting against the inside of the downpipe.It doesnt allow the flapper to fully open?
Another thing the machanic mentioned is that im running stock compression and this allows the boost to be a little higher?
If i had the headspacer installed i would probably be at 9PSI!!
Another thing he did was remove the 5th injector and had a air escape.When i raced the car it stayed at 7PSI but this is not good for the MAF sensor because the car STALES and shuts off.

Now my question is how can i make this Turbo go down to 7PSI?
Do i have to lower my compression?

 

Unless you are hitting 11 psi only at redline... ie maximum exhaust output, you will max out the wastegate whether or not you are running high or low compression. So you will still have the 11 psi problem just a tiny bit little later in the rev range.

If the flapper on the wastegate is working correctly, the actuator rod installed correctly... and the flange is keeping the wastegate from fully opening.... The flange is your problem.

If the wastegate is not opening completely, it is shunting an inadequet amount of exhaust gas away from your turbo.

I have not seen the downpipe for the Alpine system. Is there a way to modify the flange so that it does not interfere with the actuator / wastegate?

Your mechanic did what? He intentionally created an intake leak (removing the 5th injector without plugging it). What he did was "install" a permanent pop off valve. A real pop off valve should only be used to control overboost conditions in an emergency setting. That is install a valve which opens at several psi above your set psi level. I'm suprised he didn't snap off pieces of your turbine wheel so that it would be more ineffeicent and lower your boost. Or he could just remove one spark plug so that you will make less exhaust so that your turbo would make less boost. Sorry, I'm sure he was just testing a theory. But one that really has no bearing on your overboost condition.

 

Cheuk!!
Removing the 5th injector was only temporary.Im not suggesting im doing this set up at all
The thing is the flange can be cut to the diamater of the Downpipe.This will enable the Flapper to open.Thats why when i disconnecting the pin i was still getting 10PSI becasue the Flange is in the way.!!
When the downpipe was removed he did a pressure test using a manuel hand air gun and plugged a Vacum line into the wastegate.When he was pumping it the actuataor arm was moving and the flap door was opening BUT very slowly.He had another TD04 Turbo in his store but i believe its made by Greddy.When he tested the actuator rod with the Hand GUN pump it the ROD was moving Quicker thn my TD04 Turbo.
How are you suppose to know how fast the rod has to move?
Is it possible to set my Turbo to 7PSI?
He recommends boring out the the Flap and this should rectify my problem,How uch should these guys bore out?

 

I also forgot to mention how far out should the flapper open up?
Is it approx 3/4 of a inch?

 

This is the way I test any boost regulated device. A hand air gun is ok but I always "T" in a boost gauge and see exactly when the actuator moves. Without a gauge you don't know for sure if the actuator moves at 7 psi or 11 psi. How quickly it responds could also be dependant on how fast or strong the air gun is blasting air into the line.... you still don't know when the two actuators or being triggered.

It would be better to tell me how much of an angle the flapper opens up.

What they are recommending is boring out the wastegate and like I mentioned it is one of your options.