I agree with Shadohh and BryFx.Everytime i check for codes or scan my car i NEVER HAVE my car running and ONLY in the on position (BEFORE STARTING) and Works 100%

Now can someone answer my question please smile.gif
I just never knew that when your car is Flooded you will ACTUALLY get NO SPARK whats so ever!
Since my machanic did an Oil change and removed the 1L of GAS is their any damage can could of caused internally?
Burn a valve ETC.........
Should i add something in my engine as a sealer or protection because of this incident?
What do they sell to repair some internal damage(in any of course)

Last but NOT least what else can cause my car to stall and idle at 500Rpms?
Can anything be wrong?

Thanks! smile.gif smile.gif

[ March 20, 2003, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: 2 UNIQ ]

 

flooding and no spark...i guess the spark plug is so wet with gasoline that the gasoline is acting as a conductor to actually connect the 2 electrodes. so the electrical current is not arching across the 2 separated electrodes (spark), but just moving along the liquid from one electrode to the other. so checking the electrical current thru the wires was not a good check. better to remove the plugs, ground the outside electrode to heavy metal, crank the engine and actually see the spark with your own eyes.

gasoline in the oil pan...i wouldn't think this would cause problems. perhaps it could attack the oil pan seal. if the car's been driven a lot, the gas would dilute the oil viscosity and increase engine wear, but if the gas just got there from a lot of engine cranking/no starting, it's hard to imagine it doing any damage.

low idle...i'll have to do some more homework.

 

i'd say its just because of all the cranking while trying to start.
you're already rich at idle, the safc wont help, the temperature is
cold, so the cold start map is dumping loads extra fuel to keep
the car running (read choke).

I think you are just way too rich at idle.

 

low idle...you might want to adjust the "idle speed adjusting screw". of course the manual says not to:

"NOTE: DO NOT adjust throttle valve Speed Adjusting Screw (SAS). SAS is pre-adjusted at factory. Idle is controlled by Idle Speed control (ISC) motor."

(but the adjacent picture in the manual shows a screw driver adjusting the SAS anyway!) i'll post the page tonite from the manual. just remember how much you turn, and if it doesn't work, just screw back where it was.

question...when you had the catcams a while ago, did the ECU automatically raise the idle to 900 RPM, or did the mechanic raise the idle by adjusting the SAS?

starting your car...to avoid flooding the engine when trying to start it, you might try holding the gas pedal to the floor as you crank the engine. more air compensates for the rich idle mixture. at least it works for carbs, not sure about FI..... you might also try a can of "quick start" from canadian tire (highly flammable spray down the throttle body).... get the engine to fire before the plugs get soaking wet, cause then you're going nowhere.

 

Damn, I've got a defective unit then! I cannot connect unless the engine is running. With the they in the "on" position, or "acc" it will not connect. If the engine dies, I loose the connection, even if the key is still in the "on" position.

How in the world did you end up with one Liter of gas in the oil? that is A LOT of damn gas.

It shouldn't cause any permenant damage, but I would try to figure out how so much gas got into the oil. I've flooded cars before, but NEVER gotten gas mixed in with the oil, and certinaly not a full liter's worth of it.

[ March 21, 2003, 11:41 AM: Message edited by: Random ]

 

1. IDLE SPEED

idle speed adjustment (words...don't do it):

http://ca.msnusers.com/99mini/shoebox.msnw...hoto&PhotoID=63


idle speed adjustment (pic...how to do it):

http://ca.msnusers.com/99mini/shoebox.msnw...hoto&PhotoID=62

webtech idle speed actuator:

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=6350

2. IDLE MIXTURE (too rich at cold idle)

> i understand the new SAFC version 2 can adjust the mixture at a lot more rpm settings, than SAFC version 1. so maybe that might help you lean out your idle.

> here's a long shot (j/k). i understand the famous "ebay resistor" replaces your intake air temp sensor and tells the ECU that the air is always cold, which increases fuel (and maybe timing). so go to radio shack and buy a resistor to swap into your intake air temp sensor that will tell your ECU the air is always warm (so you can eliminate the rich cold idle which is flooding your engine). your car will think it's moved to florida!!!! here's the webtech details on the sensor:

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=6330

[ March 21, 2003, 04:08 PM: Message edited by: 99mini ]

 

i was out at essential speed in cambridge last week, and mentioned the litre of gas in your oil pan. he said one explanation could be a pressurized gas tank and a leaking injector. the solution is to crack open and close your gas cap when you put the car away for the winter to relieve the pressure.

 

Hmmm We Can't Find that Page...

Hmmm We Can't Find that Page...

 

i deleted the pics a few days ago, to make room for some new ones. i'll repost them.

words...don't do it:

http://ca.msnusers.com/99mini/shoebox.msnw...oto&PhotoID=111

the pic how to do it:

http://ca.msnusers.com/99mini/shoebox.msnw...oto&PhotoID=110

[ April 28, 2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: 99mini ]

 

I know the beta like the back of my hand, and I can't make heads or tails of this diagram


Are they trying to point to the idle adjust screw on the throttle body under the cable armature? If so, that is just what they told you NOT to modify in the preceeding documentation! lol

I've gotten great results with the method that Red was taught from his dealership.

Step#1. Warm up car to operating tempature.
Step #2 Disconnect hose leading to Idle Air Bypass.
Step #3. Block off hose going to IAB. Block off opening in intake elbow.
Step #4. Using idle adjust screw, set idle to 800 rpm.
Step #5. Turn on every electrical accessory. AC, headlights radio, rear defroster, blower, etc..etc.e.tc..
Step #6. Re-adjust idle back to 800 RPM.
Step #7. Shut off motor
Step #8. Turn off all crap you turned on in step #5
Step #9. Reconnect IAB hose (remove what you used to block off connections)
Step #10. Start motor
Step #11. Enjoy stable idle.