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Megasquirt ECU Help!

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Old 04-16-2013, 08:46 PM
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Default Megasquirt ECU Help!

Hello everyone so am a get right to it,



was washing the tibby had left doors open for a quite a while and tried start it after I was done and it did not crank.



So I tried jumping it first with my 89 oldsmoblie and no go......so I then grabbed my pops kia van and made the connections on both cars as I sat down and tried to start the tibby it was a fail, I then noticed that my cluster was actually dying so I step out and found out that the wind was blowing so hard that it knocked the positive clamp on the van off the battery terminal and was NOW touching the negative side and caught fire!!! so I pulled off the cables.



I quickly then checked fuses and relays that were related to starting the car. checked all fuses both under the hood and in dash everyone was fine, then checked and replaced the ecu fuse/starter relay with a known good one. Before I tried to jump start it again I attempted to kick start it, it was also a fail but in one of my attempts the starter did engage but was not enough to start the car up, Then tried to jump start it again and still no go.....



am using a megasquirt fuel management and normally I would see the lights on the red piggy back light up but this only happens in a crank state, the tibby is now in a no crank no start state and am pulling my hair now because I hope I didnt fry this expensive ecu....



now my last thought that I had before I gave up for the day was to open up the ecu and check if I smelled or saw any raw evidence of a burned component....and actually it looks pretty normal and no it didnt smell like it had burned out so needless to say for now I cant drive my turbo shark please chime in on any of your suggestions cause I for now have have burned out my own brain on this,,,,
Old 04-16-2013, 11:37 PM
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Doesn't sound all that hopeful man. I have fried factory ECUs in the past doing exactly what you did, and I would not expect a megasquirt to have much in the way of current protection. I'd say your best bet would be to e-mail megasquirt and ask what you can test to see whether the ECU is fried. In the meantime, you can still test your starter motor and wiring because they pretty much have their own circuit.



Please make your future posts easier to read though.
Old 04-17-2013, 11:01 AM
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There shouldn't be anything wrong???



If anything should be damaged shouldn't it of been ur dads van ?



Because.. The Hyundai was wired correct. The jumper both fell on the Hyundai + ?





Only way u can damage it is if u had the Leads both connected on Wrong way around ?
Old 04-17-2013, 11:05 AM
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First thing i'd test is spark.



Because the immobilizer is one of the first things charged when u turn the key.
Old 04-17-2013, 08:46 PM
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can you connect to MS via Tunerstudio? if yes what do you see in your tooth logger tab? Any crank signal? If no you have a fried component on the MS board itself. I had a similar issue and had a fried component and Ms wasnt seeing crank signal from CKP. Needless to say no start. Will have to go back and review to see what it was I fried maybe you did the same.



Warp21 is knowledgeable and maybe able to chime in . He help me solve my issue before I had any MS experience.
Old 04-17-2013, 10:41 PM
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If I read that correctly, you shorted the positive and negative terminals of YOUR battery, at the clamps on/touching the negative terminal of your dad's van battery.



If that is the case, take your battery to a major chain auto parts store for testing and charging.
Old 04-18-2013, 12:48 AM
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Sorry if my original post was a bid hard to navigate through just that my frustration at the time was a bit high...

UPDATE

so i took the battery to work and performed a battery test, battery tested very good 513/500 cca so I eliminated the battery as a possible cause of my problem. I got home and started to remove the current starter to my surprise I dont know how but the washer and nut were not present on the hot wire side of the starter solenoid...so I searched for a washer and nut to replace it with and began to re install the same starter back on, I attempted to crank the shark and heard the starter engage for a couple of seconds but then it just died, retried to crank and my cluster lights just dimmmed out as I turned the ignition switch on, one thing I did notice was that the MS was giving me lights so I can honestly say that the MS is not burned out! I believe the solenoid just took a sh*t so am going see where I can get me a starter does not cost me an arm an a leg.
Old 04-18-2013, 12:54 AM
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Also I thought so too that I had burned some fuses on my dads van but everything was fine no burned fuses and everything was operating just fine just after.




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