MAF or TPS
10-21-2009, 07:10 PM
#1
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Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai Sonata LX
MAF or TPS
so my sonata has been weird for a couple months, but never got a CEL, until tonight..
my idle will fluctuate up and down a bit, never stalls up, but will surge to 1,000 and hold itself for a bit until it corrects itself and drops to 700 or so, very annoying. sometimes when slowing, it downshifts and the rpms "hold" themselves higher which makes for hard downshifts, again until the car corrects itself at full stop.
i suspect either the TPS or IAC, but it could also be a vaccuum leak. today i pulled my MAF and cleaned it with MAF spray, waited an hour and plugged it back in. BAM! p0102, low volume for the MAF (or TPS). i'm hoping it's been the TPS all along but of course the coincedence would be to high since I just cleaned the MAF. all the connections are fine, there's no leaks in the piping etc.
i cleaned out all the sensor and the throttle body too, so i dunno. i just unhooked the battery for a bit and it deleted the check engine light, but the driveability still sucks. when i hit the gas, it bogs down a few hundred rpm's, and when i'm at speed and let go off the gas pedal, it lurches HARD (stays in gear) until i gently press the throttle again.
HELP! MAF or TPS or Vacuum Leak or IAC or ????
my idle will fluctuate up and down a bit, never stalls up, but will surge to 1,000 and hold itself for a bit until it corrects itself and drops to 700 or so, very annoying. sometimes when slowing, it downshifts and the rpms "hold" themselves higher which makes for hard downshifts, again until the car corrects itself at full stop.
i suspect either the TPS or IAC, but it could also be a vaccuum leak. today i pulled my MAF and cleaned it with MAF spray, waited an hour and plugged it back in. BAM! p0102, low volume for the MAF (or TPS). i'm hoping it's been the TPS all along but of course the coincedence would be to high since I just cleaned the MAF. all the connections are fine, there's no leaks in the piping etc.
i cleaned out all the sensor and the throttle body too, so i dunno. i just unhooked the battery for a bit and it deleted the check engine light, but the driveability still sucks. when i hit the gas, it bogs down a few hundred rpm's, and when i'm at speed and let go off the gas pedal, it lurches HARD (stays in gear) until i gently press the throttle again.
HELP! MAF or TPS or Vacuum Leak or IAC or ????
10-21-2009, 07:17 PM
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Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
The weird drivability issue sounds like the TPS to me. The intermittent high idle is something I've heard a lot of 2.7l owners have an issue with, especially after a long highway cruise.
10-22-2009, 03:28 PM
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Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai Sonata LX
it was dark but the TPS is greyish color with two sets of numbers and the letters "DAS" or "DES" or something. i found a replacement from a company named "oem genuine" for like 20 bucks on partsgeek.com, 50 from rockauto.com, and 75 from the dealer, are they all the same?
10-23-2009, 05:27 AM
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Most likely its a dae sung. You want to make sure if you get a replacement its a Keifko. Ask around on here you may find someone who can get you one cheaper then that.
10-23-2009, 03:08 PM
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Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai Sonata LX
for comparision sake, i got these numbers today:
local dealer wanted 395.51 (80 core return) for MAF, and 121.96 for TPS.
autozone wanted 194.99 for MAF, 7.99 for TPS6
rockauto/partsgeek.com wanted 210.90 for MAF, and 79.99 for TPS
friends who work in commercial auto supply wanted 100 for MAF and 25 for TPS (oem parts)
obviously, my decision was clear haha. under-the-table cash only buys are so much FUN!
in any case, i'll install them tomorrow and fingers crossed, fix the driveability issues. i've heard horror stories about those screws stripping in the TB, or being over-tightened and cracking the plastic etc.
the code is still there, CEL still on. just undo the battery, unplug the sensors, replace sensors, wait 30 min and redo battery? any fuses i should pull to fully reset the car etc? i want a fresh start with these sensors if that makes any sense
local dealer wanted 395.51 (80 core return) for MAF, and 121.96 for TPS.
autozone wanted 194.99 for MAF, 7.99 for TPS6
rockauto/partsgeek.com wanted 210.90 for MAF, and 79.99 for TPS
friends who work in commercial auto supply wanted 100 for MAF and 25 for TPS (oem parts)
obviously, my decision was clear haha. under-the-table cash only buys are so much FUN!
in any case, i'll install them tomorrow and fingers crossed, fix the driveability issues. i've heard horror stories about those screws stripping in the TB, or being over-tightened and cracking the plastic etc.
the code is still there, CEL still on. just undo the battery, unplug the sensors, replace sensors, wait 30 min and redo battery? any fuses i should pull to fully reset the car etc? i want a fresh start with these sensors if that makes any sense
10-23-2009, 04:03 PM
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Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai Sonata LX
well yeah but the nearest autozone is 30 min away and i'm trying to avoid the trip. pep-idiots and advance douchebags are all over, but the zone (the one i like) is of course a bit of a drive. shouldnt the light go off with the new sensor anyway if it's really just the sensor that's bad?